The Wonder of Hi-Point Carbines

By Shooter, Apr 2, 2014 | |
  1. Shooter
    At the gun store, I had the opportunity to hold a 9mm Kel-Tec Sub 2000. It felt awkward to me. It felt like I had to unnaturally force the placement of my cheek exceptionally low to an uncomfortable cheek weld on the buffer tube to use the stock plastic sights. I didn't like the position of the charging handle, whether justifiable or not, fearing that it could possibly catch on a shirt or jacket sleeve. The Sub 20000 didn't feel balanced in my hands. I thought I'd have to be a contortionist to use this carbine.

    Then I held the Ohio manufactured Hi-Point 995TS. Wow! What a difference. What balance! It felt really good to hold; very natural! It impressed me as being easily brought to the shoulder and very point-able enabling the shooter to swiftly take aim at a target. The iron sights were nicely positioned for a natural cheek weld. I really liked the Hi-Point stock iron sights. The Hi-Point carbine seemed much stronger built than the Sub 2000. I actually slightly prefer the Hi-Point 9mm carbine to the Hi-Point .40 S&W and the .45 ACP carbines because it is an inch shorter in overall in length with its one inch shorter barrel, and is about 0.75-pounds lighter. I also prefer the looks of the shorter stock of the 995TS.

    The wonder is not that the Hi-Point Carbine is all-fired great, the wonder is that something made so inexpensively can still run, much less run reliably. And it certainly does that! Thus, by focusing on "bang for the buck" you're pretty much getting an extremely good low-cost weapon system, which then allows more discretionary income to be used for accessories or customization. Of all the added accessories I acquired for the 995TSFG only two were a bit more costly than other similar available options and, if need be, they can be used on other rifles.

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    995TSFG

    Front Grip (storage for the Hi-Point tool)

    I found that the folding front grip had a Hi-Point tool stored in it. It's good to know that the tool could be kept readily available in a convenient location. I installed the forward grip so that its forward bolt was placed in the fifth groove back from the front of the forearm rail. I tested various ways of holding the carbine and soon discovered the holding method that I like the best is keeping the front grip in the folded position. I like to hold the forearm as depicted in the two photos below. It seems to be ergonomic as far as having a comfortable wrist angle.

    I feel that by holding the forearm in this manner with my thumb at the top of the forearm or sometimes completely over the top of the carbine gives me more control and less undesirable torque than holding on to a vertical grip mounted below the forearm.

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    Bushnell TRS-25 on NcStar 45-degree Off-Set Weaver-Picatinny Rail Mount & Forearm Grip


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    Forearm nut in hole on right side & SureFire X300 Ultra & Forearm Grip

    Magpul QD Sling Mounts

    After holding the carbine for a while, I realized that if I needed to carry the 995TSFG for some distance, the weight would become more of an encumbrance with time. A sling would therefore be beneficial. Being right handed, I did not like the fact that the Hi-Point was set up to use the provided sling and sling mounts on the right side of the carbine. Therefore, after reading some forum posts, on the Hi-Point Firearms Forums, I learned that I could switch the nuts and bolts that held both halves of the stock together to the opposite sides so that I could use the sling on the left side.

    I inserted the forearm nut in the hole on the opposite side closest to the muzzle. The nut stopped going deeper in the hole when the top of the nut was just slightly more than 1/16 inch below the surface. This was quite a bit less deep than when the nut was in its original hole on the left side of the forearm. It didn't go in deep enough to allow the original stock screw to reach the threads on the nut. It seemed as though the deeper the hole on the right side of the forearm got, the smaller in diameter it became; thus, preventing the nut from going any deeper into the hole. Since the nut was well secured in the hole, I decided to let it stay there.

    The shank on a Hi-Point supplied sling swivel stud is longer than the original screw; so I decided to try using it. As I was turning the sling swivel stud with my left hand, I watched the hole in the nut from right side of the stock to see if and how many of the threads of the sling swivel stud would grip the nut. It did and I turned it just a little further to make certain it would hold in place. Then I looked at the left side of the stock, "Uh-Ooh." A sinking feeling came over me. I just wrecked my brand new carbine. The entire width of the sling swivel portion of the stud dug into the left side of the plastic forearm. Not a lot, but enough to leave an unsightly mark. Now, I wondered to myself, what do I do? Should I order another stock?

    The damage was done; there was nothing to immediately do about it then since I knew I needed time think about how to rectify the damage that I caused. Even though I was upset at myself, I decided to try out the Hi-Point provided sling anyway. In so doing, I concluded that I didn't like it at all.

    I was determined to rectify the damage I caused to my new carbine. Researching online led me to decide to replace the Hi-Point sling swivel studs with Magpul Type 1 Quick Disconnect (QD) sling mounts. The diameter of the hole in the forearm that had to be enlarged to install one of the QD sling mount was almost the exact same diameter as the gouge I made using the Hi-Point sling swivel stud. I don't own a drill press, which would have been ideal to enlarge the diameters of the holes on the left side of the stock for the QD sling, mounts; however, I do own an electric hand drill. I was caught off guard when the drill bit got caught by the plastic of the forearm pulling the drill bit rapidly into the existing hole causing me to almost over drill the depth of the hole before I could release the electric hand drill trigger. I was lucky to get it stopped in time. To enlarge the second hole in the stock behind the handgrip I ended up just using a heavy leatherwork glove to turn the drill bit by hand.

    To secure the QD sling mount in the forearm, I had to use a longer black oxide finished button socket cap screw (10-32 - 1") since I made no further attempts to get the nut deeper in the hole.

    After completing the installation of both QD sling mounts, I was satisfied since everything worked out quite well. The initial damage I caused in the forearm was rectified and the new QD sling mounts are quite unobtrusive since they both stick out only a little bit away from the stock. It's almost as if the Hi-Point carbine was originally designed to be used with QD sling mounts.

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    QD Mount & SureFire.

    SLING

    Since I now had two QD sling mounts on the 995TSFG, I wanted a comfortable quick disconnect sling, which can be easily switched from a single point to a two-point mode and vice-versa. The Savvy Sniper Quad dual QD w/MS met these requirements best. Unfortunately, it's a bit expensive but the sling is extremely comfortable because of the sewn in bungee cord and it only takes a second to adjust for body sizing because of the quick adjustment slider handle. Another thing I like about this sling is that it's made in Ohio just like Hi-Point carbine itself.

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    Bushnell, Joey's Key Chain & Sling


    SIGHTS

    I don't like absolute co-witness of a red dot with non folding fixed iron sights. For me, it would be too distracting to use a red dot along with the iron sights at the same time. I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a red dot/mount combination that would allow a good lower ..." co-witness with the Hi-Point carbine stock iron sight; unfortunately, I couldn't find any combination that would work well enough.

    As I said earlier in this article, I really like the iron sights that came with the 995TS. I made up my mind to use them unobstructed; yet, at the same time I still wanted to have a red dot on the carbine. I decided to simply use a 45-degree offset rail for the red dot and was glad to find that I like this configuration.

    I purchased a Bushnell TRS-25 Red Dot on sale at Cabela's for $79.99. It's amazing how close in performance the inexpensive TRS-25 is to the much more expensive Aimpoint T1. Well maybe not exactly, but for the value of a Hi-Point carbine, it's close enough. I mounted the TRS-25 on an NcStar 45-degree Off-Set Weaver/Picatinny Rail Mount so that the TRS-25 is on the left side of the carbine. I am right handed and using the TRS-25 in this manner allows a very nice upright head hold with both eyes opened. If I want to switch from using the TRS-25 to the irons, I just need to slightly tip my head to the right without much change in cheek weld. The TRS-25 and the NcStar 45-degree Off-Set Rail Mount were both made in China; however, Bushnell is an American firm.

    In deciding to use any sight with a 45-degree offset on the left side of the carbine, one has to consider that the windage and elevation adjustment screws for zeroing the sight are also 45-degree offset. If square paper targets are used, the lower-left hand corner and the upper-right hand corner of the paper becomes the Left and Right windage reference points respectively. Likewise, the upper-left hand and lower-right hand corners of the paper become the up and down respective elevation reference points. If the paper target is rectangular, the paper could be cut to make it square or better yet draw an X through the center of the target face with a magic marker to mark the 45-degree offset reference points.

    One interesting note is that the color of the Bushnell lettering logo on the TRS-25 almost matches the color of the Savvy Sniper Sling.

    But what about cases, triggers, cheek rests, and more on lights? Well for that see our second article in the series The Continuing Wonder that is a Hi Point Carbine

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