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Old 07-26-2010, 10:58 PM   #1
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Default DIY: Customizable trigger job

Warning: Messing with the sear or the sear spring can cause accidental discharges or uncontrolled firing and messing with the main spring can cause light primer strikes. Do this with caution and test the firearm in a safe place to make sure it function properly.

Well I'm sure there a lot of you that have done trigger jobs but for those who haven't or don't know how to here you go.

This is a walk through of a customizable trigger job for the C9. How is it customizable? because the amount of trigger pull will be determined by the springs you chose. All of these steps can be done by them self's and do not need to be done together to work but the more you do the lighter your pull can be.

Alright to start off the tools you are going to need:

Hammer
1/16 punch
3/32 punch
1/8 punch (optional)
Phillips screwdriver
Phone book or soft surface
Between 600-3000 grit sand paper.



Alright to start off pull the slide back and lock it in place with the safety. Now put your C9 on the phone book and take the 3/32 punch and hammer and remove the pin that holds the slide in place.



Now take the slide and the pin and sit them off to the side. Do not tip the slide as the mainspring and firing pin my fall out or just remove them and set them with the slide.



Now take the Phillips screwdriver and remove the grip on the right side of the gun or the side opposite to the mag release button.




Now remove the stock grip and be careful as there is a small spring in the stock grip and there is a wire that control the tension of the mag release bottom. The small spring in the grip is not required along with the mag break as it is not in my gun and not shown in the picture. Now in the picture you can see the arrow points to where to pieces of metal meet, you need to take whatever fine sand paper you have (I recommend somewhere between 600-3000 grit.) and sand where the metal surfaces meet to smooth them out and remove any burrs.



Now remove the sear and sear spring and set them off to the side and remove the metal peice shown in the last picture if you haven't already.



Now take the 1/16 punch and hammer and find the pin above the trigger that holds the trigger assembly in the gun and tap out the pin to remove the trigger. It will still have a piece of metal on it at this time.



This is what you will have removed



Now take the 1/16 punch and remove the little pin that holds the metal piece to the trigger itself.



Here are all the peices you should have when you remove and tear down the trigger assembly



The trigger spring should be located in the trigger in a hole made to seat the spring.



Now remove the spring if it has not already came out and replace this spring with a lighter spring of your liking. This alone will improve the trigger pull but works best in combination with the other mods. Now do not cut the spring and only replace it with a light spring of the same lenght.

Now onto the sear and sear spring, I personally sanded all of the sear with 3000 grit sand paper but that is not something you have to do and does not improve the pull much. The part you mod here again is the spring some people cut down the sear spring but that does not really help the trigger pull it just makes the trigger pull shorter and can be unsafe. Now when replacing the sear spring be careful not to go to light as it can cause accidental discharges, injury, or uncontrollable firing. I found a spring that was 3/4 strength of the original spring and it seems to work very well but this is something you will have to test.



Now onto the slide take one of the punches and remove the mainspring and firing pin if you haven't already.



Here is a picture of the new firing pin and main spring assembly and the old firing pin and mainspring assembly. which one you have will depend on when your gun was made or if you have upgraded to the new assembly.



Now this is the final part of the trigger job you can cut one or two coils off the mainspring to lighten the trigger pull or you can replace the springs with a lighter one. I personally think its better to replace them with a lighter spring because if it doesn't work when you try to shoot you will get a light strike on the bullets primer but you can not put coils back on once you cut them off so do little amounts at a time and reassemble if you are cutting coils.

This is the mainspring assembly I used to lighten the mainspring load.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o77/danielthompson8588/IMG_0504.jpg

Now reassemble the gun and test. Be safe as things like to light or to short of sear spring can cause the gun to fire be just the slide slamming.

Depending on what springs you used you can easily cut you trigger pull in half or less then that I actually had to put stronger springs in because it was to light for my liking. Have fun, Be safe, and good luck with your trigger job.

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Old 07-26-2010, 11:53 PM   #2
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

Thanks for the post and PICS! If I followed your step by step instructions, my C9 would look exactly the same way 6 months from now as I would probably never get all the pieces back together again - just not that mechanically inclined (just dense), but appreciate those that are. (Thankfully a local gunsmith took pity on my when I brought in a bag of 10/22 parts I attempted to reassemble, in that he did not laugh in my face - probably waited until I left the store!)

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Old 07-27-2010, 12:15 AM   #3
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

thats one of the best step by step procedures i've seen, very well done!

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Old 07-27-2010, 12:37 AM   #4
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

Mod warning
If you choose to do this, you may experience, light primer strikes or accidental discharges. When testing these modifications, please remember to keep your weapon pointed in a safe direction.

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Old 07-27-2010, 01:47 AM   #5
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

very well done. 5 star all the way or a 1000 points. lol...

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Old 07-27-2010, 02:41 AM   #6
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

Wow. Nice post but I must agree with Virgil here. Be very careful of light primer strikes on this. Not a big deal unless you use this as a CC pistol. Either way, great post.

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Old 07-27-2010, 02:48 AM   #7
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

If you go to a lighter trigger spring you can also affect the trigger reset. The sear spring and the trigger spring are the only two springs that work to reset the trigger, something that I have run into while machining custom triggers for these. If the trigger spring length is altered as little as 1/32 it can cause the trigger to not reset at times.

The only part of this I would recommend would be removing the sharp edges from the back of the sear and trigger levers. A shorter or weaker spring under the sear will not engage the sear as deeply into the firing pin, and without a block safety...

The newer, longer design was brought out to correct light primer strikes. If you really feel like taking your pistol back to the way it was that was causing problems, then go ahead, it's yours, but don't be complaining on here that you now have problems with it...

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Old 07-27-2010, 02:51 AM   #8
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

Well thanks for all the nice comments I hope this helps people. And I added in red a warning about messing with the sear and mainspring.

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Old 07-27-2010, 02:51 AM   #9
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

Also, the pin that retains the trigger to the lever has to be removed from one side only, I believe the it needs to be punched out to the left...if you remove it in the wrong direction the pin will eventually work it's way out, the trigger is made with two different size holes, one slightly smaller so the pin wedges itself into the plastic to retain itself...

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Old 07-27-2010, 04:10 AM   #10
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Default Re: DIY: Customizable trigger job

Good to know about the pin as I didn't think it made a difference on which was it came out. The trigger spring to me just seems way over powered for what it does and that it move the trigger back to the starting position before you pulled it, In my gun I used a spring with about half the strength but I made it a little bit longer so I wouldn't run into the problem of it not going back to the starting position.

The reason I recommend using different spring instead of cutting the springs you have is for just that if something goes wrong. I replaced my spring with different one so that if something goes wrong or does not work right then I can just replace them with the stock spring that came with the gun. I do like the new firing pin step up as I read it goes into the primer deeper, but the new main spring that came with it was 10x as powerful as my other one, which might be good for reliability but it seemed a little much so I used some springs I had.

But I will say there is a lot to be said about messing with the sear spring as the first time I did this I cut the spring strength way to much and the gun went into a 3 shot burst and then jammed. I pulled the slide back and remove the round back then when I pulled the slide back and let go to camber a new round it Fired which I had I felling it might so I had it pointed at the ground but that was enough of that spring and I went to a much stronger one. That being said I think that to get a really like trigger pull all of these mods need to be done, I needed up making my trigger pull little bit stronger when I was done as it was to light for my comfort. No madder how you modify your gun just be safe and do all of it with extreme caution.

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