bubba style gun painting

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by dasaroth, Nov 21, 2007.

  1. dasaroth

    dasaroth Member

    So i'll start of saying i found this out by accident. I was working on another project when i needed to paint a part with hi-temp paint and i stumbled upon it. so heres a little tutorial on how to do it.

    First start off with a can of High temperature spray paint (used on grills,stoves,radiators etc.) I use rustoleum, i don't know if others will work.but i don't see why they wouldn't
    [​IMG]

    The next few steps are pretty simple so i wont give pics.

    Prep the piece like you would do for any other spray paint job. remember prep is 98% of the results of the finished piece.

    what you want to do now is spray paint the piece. Apply as much as you desire. As long as your last coat is a thick one. I usually put a thin coat, let it dry for 10 mins then put a thick coat.Then let the piece dry for at least 45mins.

    Now the fun part. take your piece and stick it in the oven or grill. If you use the grill make sure you have the ability to check and adjust the temp. I stick it in the oven, then turn it on 350 degrees. let it heat up to 350, wait 5mins then turn it off. (this may stink up the kitchen a little so turn the overhead fan on) Leave it in the oven to cool down. Now the most important part, I have a little digital gauge on my oven telling me the temp. So when it drops to 125 degrees in the oven pull the piece out.


    When pulled out the oven with a rag it should look like this, where i grabbed it with the rag it left marks in the finish.
    [​IMG]

    Now what you want to do is let it cool for a few mins on the table to where you can comfortably hold it with a light shop rag. (be gentle with the piece as the paint is not cured and any hard bumps to an object could ruin the finish)Now holding it with one rag and start rubbing on it with another rag to bring the shine out. keep using the same part of the rag when buffing. there should be a little paint on the rag like so.(this is why you want the last coat to be thick)
    [​IMG]

    Now when you get the desired finish on the piece, (the more you buff it the shinier it gets) set it up and let it cure. This can take up to 24 hours depending on humidity and temperature. so the final results look similar to this.
    [​IMG]
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    Now you are wondering. How does it hold up to scratches and chips right?
    The main thing you got to remember is to let it cure because the paint is still soft. now when it cures its pretty darn hard. Just the other day i had a piece on the bench that fell about three and a half feet on to the concrete floor and it just left a small scuff mark no chip. so i say its pretty durable. well thanks for reading through my unbearable post. i hope you enjoyed.
     

  2. thekrnel

    thekrnel Guest

    it gives the peice a "new" looking finish.
     
  3. ronco52

    ronco52 Well-Known Member

    dasaroth, You said;
    The next few steps are pretty simple so i wont give pics.
    Prep the piece like you would do for any other spray paint job. remember prep is 98% of the results of the finished piece.

    I hate to sound like an idiot, but if prep is 98% of the results, walk me though your prep procedures.
    I am about to Bubba up one of my SKS and your method looks good to me if I can duplicate it.
    Thanks for your response!
     
  4. Fenix

    Fenix Guest

    that is one fine lookin' job, doesnt look bubba'd at all
     
  5. dasaroth

    dasaroth Member

    The reason i say prep is 98% of the final results is for the simple reason, A lot of people are very impatient and will want to speed up the process by cutting corners .( I used to be that way)What i do is as follows:

    * Wipe the part with solvent. Paint thinner or i have used lacquer thinner. To remove grease,oil, dirt or whatever

    * Scrub all surfaces of the part with mild detergent in hot water. Rinse well and wipe dry with a clean dry cloth.The surface must be absolutely clean before sanding to prevent the sanding process from spreading the contaminants or embedding them into the surface.

    * Now this is where a nice small sandblaster comes in handy. But asuming you don't have one or even a bench grinder with a wire brush. (i have used both methods)

    * Start off with 180 grit sandpaper to get off any loose paint or rust,bluing.
    I dont get to aggressive with it though, so as not to make deep scratch marks. then when the heavy stuff is off i will use 240 grit sandpaper.
    ( I have used emery cloth medium grit through out the entire sanding process and got good results also)

    **Now this is where the details come in, take your time and get all those hard to reach crevasse's and corners. This is where people fail in the project. and will say "ah its good enough" Do a good job and you will be happy with your effort and glad of the results in the end.

    * Now it may be just me or my ocd but i like to have all the sanding marks in one direction.Just seems like a more flowing even paint job to me. (you don't have to follow :)

    * When you are all done with the sanding process Wipe the part with solvent.

    * Make sure to wear clean latex or nitrile gloves to prevent fingerprint oils from contaminating the surfaces of your cleaned parts.

    * Paint the parts immediately after sanding and cleaning to prevent the bare steel areas from developing surface rust or the parts from becoming contaminated again. I usually rig some kind of hooks from copper wire to hang the piece while painting. Screwing a bolt in then hooking the wire to it works good. just make sure its an easy to reach inconspicuous spot to touch up if you have to when the other spots are dry

    Well thats just about it, I don't think i forgot anything. just follow the other instructions on painting and you should be good to go. Now my little disclaimer :D The instructions are not an end all discussion on how to prep parts , just what as worked really good for me. There are probably better and more thorough instructions on prepping metal found on the net. So take it with a grain of salt and use what works best for you. I hope you enjoyed the read and wish you luck with your project.
     
  6. ronco52

    ronco52 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Dasaroth, I apprecate the information and the time you you took to respond.
    I don't have a sandblaster, but do have a adjustable speed dremal tool and may use it with a wire brush to get everything clean.
    Thanks again for the advice.
    Ronco