Z71's Guide to porting a Kel-Tec

Discussion in 'Gunsmith shop' started by z71silverado98, Oct 22, 2007.

  1. z71silverado98

    z71silverado98 Well-Known Member

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    By request:

    ****attempt at your own risk, results may vary.******
    make sure the guns unloaded etc, I wont explain everything so use common sense. If youve got a question, I will answer it though.

    I used:
    a drill, a good assortment of bits, a dremel, a diamond engraving bit, 1 polishing bit, cold blue, 1 fmj bullet, 1 dowel,a towel, a hammer, lots of patience, a steady hand, and a good eye.


    I started by measuring and centering up 2 dots on each side where my original 2 holes would be. I ended up connecting them to form 2 ovals. I think I may have made the ports a little larger than they need to be but they work fine for me so i dont mind.

    this is how i did my ports, if you want a different shape, modify as you see fit.

    1. using the dowel and hammer drive the FMJ bullet into the area of the barrel you'll be working. This will help elim. burrs and prevent the bit from striking the opposite end of the barrel.

    2. place the slide and barrel w/ the recoil spring still installed on a folded towel and use the smallest bit to drill each marked hole thru the slide and barrel. the bit had a little trouble making it thru the barrel on the 3rd and 4th hole so i removed the barrel after it was sufficiently marked by the bit
    and finished on the barrel only.

    3. repeat the drilling w/ larger bits until the holes are the size you want. Use 2 sizes larger on the slide than on the barrel.

    [​IMG]

    4. remove the barrel from the slide and use the diamond dremel bit to connect the holes. then round the edges on the barrel to prevent bullets from being scraped by sharp edges.

    5. use the dremels polishing bit to pretty everything up then cold blue the slide and/or barrel.

    [​IMG]

    Ive polished more flaws out since the last picture, ill try and get a new picture up soon.
     
  2. GunsRfun.

    GunsRfun. Guest

    that looks great for a hand drill. 8)
     

  3. z71silverado98

    z71silverado98 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! I just took my time and used really low RPMs too keep everything neat and straight.
    If you just squeeze the drill up to max speed and start drilling your not gonna get the same results.

    same w/ the dremel. highest speed cuts through the barrel to quickly but the lowest setting was perfect for me.

    I spent about and hour a day for 3 days making everything perfect.
     
  4. Great job, and thanks for reposting! Two questions:

    1) How did you prevent the barrel ports from shaving off fragments of the projectile? Did you slant the ports toward the muzzle, or round off the inside edges?

    2) It looks like the ports in the slide line up with those in the barrel -- is it true that the slide recoils almost none at all by the time the projectile exits the muzzle?
     
  5. z71silverado98

    z71silverado98 Well-Known Member

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    1. thats where the diamond bit comes in. all the edges are rounded to prevent shaving the bullet.

    2. the barrel & slide travel together for a short distance. the bullet exits and gasses are released, then recoil begins. by the time the slide and barrel seperate there is nothing but a small amount of smoke left in the chamber.


    i have noticed my front site takes a beating from the porting though. im thinking of putting a thin coat of jb weld to protect the plastic from the heat.
     
  6. I love it -- thanks for the clarification. I'm debating the feasibility (not yet determined) and desirability (high) of this project on another firearm.

    Oops - forgot to ask: how do you determine the optimal size of the port? Or is this more art than science? I'd like to maximize velocity, but get a bit of compensation; I don't want to force the muzzle to my knees, and then have the ball listlessly drop at my feet :D
     
  7. z71silverado98

    z71silverado98 Well-Known Member

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    actually i just eyeballed what magnaports website aswell as members of KTOG who have had theirs professionally ported. the thing i didnt like about the pro method was the holes were directly on top and in the middle of the barrel. mine 'shortens' the barrel about .5" instead of 2" like the pros.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Thanks again for your comments. I need to ponder this, but I _really_ want to do something like this. (Hence my plea to repost.)
     
  9. PrimalSeal

    PrimalSeal Well-Known Member

    I don't know z71... I kinda like the looks of those 2 holes in the top of the slide... I know what you're talking about as far as shortening the barrel though, and that's not cool. Make the holes smaller and closer to the front sight and you'd be better off IMHO. Just my $0.02
     
  10. GlockMan

    GlockMan Well-Known Member

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    The ports are way to big and shaped/located incorrectly. There is a strong possibility that the barrel may fracture. I would not suggest this Mod as it is too aggressive and potentially dangerous on such a thin contour barrel.
     
  11. z71silverado98

    z71silverado98 Well-Known Member

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    GM, your certainly entitled to your opinion, and I'll certainly keep it in mind.
    I wouldn't use the weapon in the first place if I thought it was unsafe. Also when I sign in at my range they usually inspect the weapons, none of the gunsmiths have ever had a concern.

    Ive been keeping an eye on the barrel 500rnds, no signs of stress.

    I understand they are a little larger than they prolly should be but they arent positioned any differently than the angled porting jobs i found online.

    I made my disclaimer in the first post and was fully aware that i could ruin my gun. KT barrels are $80 but Magnaport runs $300-600 so the risk was worth it to me.

    Dont try this at home Kids! :p