DIY Camouflage a Plastic Stock
[My first attempt - Savage Axis .243. ]
There are probably as many ways to change the color of a boring, black synthetic stock as there people who own them. This is by no means the be all and end all of painting a camouflage pattern on your rife (or Hi Point). It is a beginners guide for what I did and how it worked out for me.
Step 1: Get over being afraid you're going to screw up the stock. It can't be done unless you use a torch or somehow deform the stock. The absolute worst thing you can do with paint is have to sand or wire brush it and paint it black again (I've done that many times).
Step 2: Decide what pattern you want. The possibilities are endless. You can buy stencils, make your own stencils, use natural materials... For one of my early attempts, I decided to use natural materials (leaves, grass, weeds). I watched several videos on YouTube and know what I wanted.
Step 3: Decide what technique you want to use. Wall know that YouTube can be the DIY guy's best friend. There are videos on sponge camo, air brush camo, DIY Hydo-dip camo and the ever popular "rattle can" spay on camo. I admit to being cheap and having no talent at all with an air brush, I went with the spray can method.
[RUST-OLEUM (tm) brand "rattle can" spray paints in camouflage colors]
Step 4: PRACTICE!!! Ask me how I know skipping this step won't work out well for most people. Use scrap wood, left over plumbing pipe, plywood, even cardboard. Are you going to let your lowers layer stay black? Start with a black background. Then lay your first layer on top of that. Less is more - keep the layers somewhat sparse. Spray your next color, working up from darkest to lightest on top. Put a second layer or leaves, branches, weeds...down and spray that. Stick to 3 or 4 colors, lightest on top. Any more and it gets busy. You probably won't like the result.
Step 5: clean your stock. DO NOT use a petroleum based cleaner! I wipe mine down with rubbing alcohol. Mineral spirits will work, too. Just make sure the entire stock is free of oil, grease and any other contaminates. (I have a .22 stock I have to redo because I didn't follow my own advice. Paint came off in sheets)
[Yup, didn't clean it very well. And I was so happy with the pattern!]
Step 6: Repeat, as closely as you can, the pattern you like best on the stock. (HINT: leaves and grass tend to blow off when hit with spray paint. I found that wetting the leaves EVER SO SLIGHTLY made them adhere better to the stock). Spray on your first layer. WALK AWAY! Come back in about half an hour and repeat with the second layer. Leave ample drying time between the coats. DO NOT remove you stencil materials until that side of the stock is totally dry.
Now flip the stock over and repeat steps 5 and six, being careful to avoid the pattern you already put on. Be patient, let it dry. When the paint has hardened off - 2 to 3 days - you can come back and hit it with come clear coat paint if you like.
A couple of hints if you've never done this.
Don't hurry. I am extremely impatient. Not a good quality here. The more patient you are, the better results you will get.
Experiment. Use as many different types of stencils as you can. Make your own out of masking tape. cut plastic folders into camo stencils. Paint vines, leaves and twigs with a highlighter brush. Use sponges, rags, paper towels to daub paint onto you work. There's nothing that can't be reversed, removed or covered. Get crazy.
A little time, a lot of effort and a little luck. On thing's for sure - no one else will have a camo pattern quite like yours!
[This is the side that didn't peel. Real happy with this one]
[Forearm of my .243. No bad. I'm satisfied with it]