Installation Guide for Lakeline Stainless Steel Sleve for the Taurus PT709

By lklawson, Nov 25, 2019 | |
  1. lklawson
    LAKELINE STAINLESS STEEL SLEEVE
    By "Dubar"

    Part# PT-SG-NS-004


    INSTALLATION GUIDE

    (for Taurus PT111-G2, PT140-G2, G2S, G2C, G3, 709, 740)

    NOTE: The Lakeline instruction say some firearms may require the use of a drill to enlarge where the sleeve inserts into the slide. I found this not to be the case, your situation or model may vary.

    I purchased a Taurus PT 709 Slim in May 2018 and have put over 1000 rounds through it since. Although the gun has performed well, there was always a feeling of it having a gritty trigger, felt like when I pulled the trigger I could feel it going over a bump.

    PHOTO 1.JPG
    [PHOTO 1 – PT709 SLIM]

    Reading some posts on various online forums I spotted one that mentioned a fix in the way of a stainless steel striker guide sleeve that would replace the OEM polymer sleeve and possibly fix this grittiness. The sleeve is made by Lakeline LLC (P/N PT-SG-NS-004). For $20 I decided to give it a try. Their website is: https://lakelinellc.com/

    The Lakeline sleeve has a fine finish, much smoother than the OEM polymer orange sleeve:
    PHOTO 2.JPG
    PHOTO 3.JPG
    PHOTO 4.JPG
    [PHOTOS 2,3, and 4 – LAKELINE STAINLESS STEEL SLEEVE]

    However, the Lakeline sleeve disables the slide-mounted Taurus Security System (TSS). The Lakeline sleeve does not have the hole for the TSS that the OEM sleeve has. I believe this hole was also causing the “bump” felt in the trigger.

    A) REMOVING THE OEM POLYMER GUIDE SLEEVE

    1) Disassemble the gun as you normally would for cleaning:
    PHOTO 5.JPG
    [PHOTO 5 – DISASSEMBLY OF PISTOL]

    2) Here you can see the OEM (orange) polymer sleeve and back plate:
    PHOTO 6.JPG
    PHOTO 7.JPG
    PHOTO 8.JPG
    [PHOTOS 6,7, and 8 – View of OEM orange striker sleeve and backplate]

    I used only 3 tools: pin/punch, tweezers, .22 shell casing:
    PHOTO 9.JPG
    [PHOTO 9 – Tools used]

    3) Place a pin/punch as shown in the photo below and push the orange sleeve towards the front of the slide (towards the left in the photo)
    PHOTO 10.JPG
    [PHOTO 10 – Placement of pin/punch]

    4) At the same time, carefully remove the back plate while not letting the striker spring slip out. Once the back plate is slightly moved you can put the tool down and with both hands on the slide remove the back plate, followed by the striker assembly.

    PHOTO 11.JPG
    [PHOTO 11 – Backplate and striker assembly removed]

    PHOTO 12.JPG
    [PHOTO 12 – Closeup of striker assembly]

    5) With the spent 22 shell in the orange sleeve and placed on a hard surface, compress the striker spring using the tweezers (or your fingers) and remove the 2-piece striker keeper. Slide the large striker spring off the striker and pull the striker out of the orange sleeve. Ensure the smaller spring on the striker is retained.

    PHOTO 13.JPG
    PHOTO 14.JPG
    [PHOTOS 13 and 14 – Striker assembly disassembled]

    6) Place the Lakeline sleeve onto the striker as shown, then reinstall the striker spring.

    7) Reinsert the 22 casing so the striker spring can be compressed in order to reinstall the 2-piece keeper.

    PHOTO 15.JPG
    [PHOTO 15 – Lakeline guide installed on striker]

    PHOTO 16.JPG
    PHOTO 17.JPG
    [PHOTOS 16 and 17 – Reinstalling the spring and 2-piece keeper]

    8) Reinstall the striker assembly into the slide and reinstall the backplate.

    PHOTO 18.JPG
    [PHOTO 18 – Striker reinstalled in the slide]

    9) Reinstall the barrel and recoil spring into the slide.

    PHOTO 19.JPG
    [PHOTO 19 – Barrel and recoil spring assembly reinstalled]

    10) Reassemble the gun and you are finished!

    I could feel a difference as soon as I dry fired the pistol. A few days later I took it to the range and ran approximately 75 rounds through it with zero problems.

    This modification, in my opinion, is well worth the money and time spent, which took less than 1 hour.

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