In our first installment, we spoke about the reasons for choosing Hi Point's carbine models over other, similarly styled, pistol caliber rifles and such concerns as sights and sling mounts. In this piece, we will spend more time on cases, triggers, cheek rests, and shed some more light on...lights.
I've read posts on how the 995TS can cause cheek slap on some people. I was also contemplating how I could add a pad to the top and sides of the stock cheek rest to allow easy placement of the head, which would accommodate fast switching of the position of the head to use either the TRS-25 red dot sight mounted on the 45-degree Off-Set Rail Mount or the iron sights.
I've shot traditional bows since I was 5 years old. As I write this, I am 65 years young. I had been using three different leather arm guards when shooting my bows. I figured I could do with only having two arm guards, so I took one of them and mounted it to the stock of the 995TSFG to use as a cheek rest. The arm guard has these words stamped into the leather "Grizzly & Wolverine Broadheads Archery." I'm not sure if this arm guard is still marketed. The results of an internet search shows that the company seems to be in business in Coudersport, Pennsylvania; although, they don't have a web site. I suspect that, if the leather Grizzly & Wolverine Broadheads Archery arm guards are no longer available for purchase, a similar one may be found at any traditional archery retailer.
The arm guard is narrower in the front and wider at the rear. This matches the widening of the stock proceeding toward the butt of the stock.
Underneath the arm guard, I also used inch thick soft foam to cause the lower portion of the cheek rest to extend outward from the stock. The foam is on the top and both sides of the stock under the arm guard. I sanded a strip down the longitudinal center of the foam on a narrow one inch sanding belt to create a 1-inch wide channel about 1/2-inch deep (leaving only 1/4-inch of foam remaining) so the arm guard wouldn't sit too high on the top of the stock. I did this to allow me to still easily use the iron sights. From that sanded one-inch wide center channel strip of foam, I tapered the foam slightly on the sanding belt leaving the full " thickness of foam as I approached the left and right edges. All I had to do was place the foam channel side down - over the stock, then place the arm guard on top of the foam and tightly wrap the elastic string of the arm guard through the skeletal stock while tightly wrapping the string around the hooks in the arm guard to hold it securely in place.
Armguard & remnant of Foam
Rear QD Mount & Cheek Rest
The following attributes of using the archery arm guard as a cheek rest is as follows:
Allows for easy transition, when shooting, from the 45 offset TRS-25 red dot to the iron sights and vice-versa.
Prevents cheek slap.
Helps prevent the spare magazines in the magazine holders on either side of the stock from moving forward.
In my opinion the carbine looks better with it on than just having the bare skeletal stock.
I decided I didn't want a compensator mounted to the muzzle because I didn't want to add additional length and weight to the front of a very point-able short carbine. I understand that a compensator doesn't really do much for muzzle rise on a 9mm carbine anyway. I also didn't want to add something that redirects the report to adjacent shooters under a roof-covered firing line at a shooting range, nor redirected toward me, if for some reason, I needed to shoot without having hearing protection on. I kept thinking, however, that the front of the barrel of the 995TSFG needed something for looks but I didn't want to add the weight of a barrel shroud. I also wanted this something to be both functional and lightweight. In addition, I thought it would be neat if I could to take advantage of the rail mounted under the barrel.
What I came up with to solve my dilemma was a SureFire X300 Ultra Weapon Light. It weighs only 4 ounces with a battery installed and has 500 lumens of light. With the SureFire X300 Ultra Weapon Light mounted to the barrel rail of the 995TS, the on/off switches are easily reached with the hand that holds the forearm. A switch on each side of the light can turn the light on constantly or the light can be turned on momentarily by just pressing in on either one of the switches. Another nice thing about this weapon light is that it can be put on or taken off the 995TS barrel rail within seconds. The SureFire X300 Ultra Weapon Lights are not made in Ohio but they are made in the USA. I like the way the 995TSFG looks with the light mounted on the barrel rail; it sits right up close to the barrel reshaping the profile of the front of the carbine. Because the weapon light is mounted so far forward on the carbine the beam of light doesn't cause glare in the shooters eye.
QD Mount & SureFire
My 995TS seemed to have a smooth trigger pull and a very nice clean crisp break to start with; however, I've installed a Joey's Key Chain for a more perfect trigger feel. I consider adding a Joey's Key Chain as being the absolute best modification to make on a Hi-Point carbine. If you only do one modification, this is the one to do.
The Hipoint.net>Hi-Point Carbines forum has a sticky thread titled "Trigger installation - new aluminum trigger," by Bushman 98. Although the trigger shown being installed in that thread in not a Joey's Key Chain, the thread has an excellent 20-step set of instructions with accompanying photos that shows how to change out the Hi-Point Carbine trigger. These instructions are just as valid for installing the Joey's Key Chain. One thing to note is that the trigger bar is only pinned to the trigger itself and nowhere else; hence, the combination is called the trigger assembly in the Hi-Point carbine manuals.
The rest of the trigger bar rests untethered along the left inside sidewall of the receiver with one little tab that fits into a slot in the side wall. The rear of the trigger bar rest up against the forward portion of the sear cam. If after unpinning the trigger from the trigger bar, the trigger bar happens to fall out of its position in the receiver, there are a couple of good photos in those instructions that show how the trigger bar fits into the receiver and buts up against the sear cam. It's really not too difficult to figure how to get the trigger bar back into position by referring to those photos.
I did two things to the Key Chain before installing it. First, I very slightly rounded off the front edges and lightly sanded the sides with 1000, 2000, and then 3000 grit sand paper that I got from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Then I used Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish on it.
When installing the Key Chain, I used two 1-17 Wire Nails on which I ground off the points to use as a punch to punch out the pins holding the original plastic trigger and then later to be used as temporary guide pins to line up the holes when installing the new Key Chain. These nails are slightly smaller in diameter than the original pins used to hold the trigger in place and made lining up the holes and keeping them lined up much easier. Scotch taping the nail head to the stock helped hold the nails in place while I worked on reinserting the pins. The use of a small needle nosed vice grip pliers helped get the pins started in the holes.
After installation, the Key Chain worked perfectly with no issues. It has a much better feel than the original plastic trigger had. The other thing that I like is that the Joey's Key Chain has very little of that irritating side-to-side movement that the original plastic trigger had.
Joey, I thank you so much for making these Key Chains. Oh yes, one more thing, the Joey's Key Chain is also made in Ohio by Joey who is a fellow Hi-Point Firearms.com forum member.
For the 995TSFG I purchased a Hi-Point Firearm's Fabric Rifle Case. It's lightweight, not over sized and easy to store. The sewn in label adjacent to the storage pocket reads, "Made in the USA." I was hoping that the case was made in Ohio like the carbine. To find out, I called Hi-Point Firearms and was told their soft cases are made in Saint Clair, Missouri. I keep a couple Flambeau Zerust Corrosion Protection Plastabs in the Hi-Point Fabric Rifle Case. They are made in Middlefield, Ohio.
I began part 1 of this article with a short disputation on the Kel-Tec Sub 2000. Now I'm not saying that the Kel-Tec Sub 2000 is a bad firearm; I'm just saying that it's not for me.
I am not saying that the Hi-Point carbine is just a good firearm; I'm saying that it is an extremely good, low-cost firearm that anyone can easily have fun accessorizing and customizing to their hearts desire. To keep the 995TSFG well balanced and point-able as possible, I tried to use lighter weight accessories.
As you probably have already guessed from reading Parts 1 and 2 of this article, I have marked propensity for products manufactured in Ohio. Okay, I confess I'm a native Ohioan.