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Pick a 38...

27K views 231 replies 31 participants last post by  undeRGRound 
#1 ·
So, recent updates to WPAFB policy may make it advantageous for me to get a .38 snubbie. The requirement is that I would have to get written permission (which looks like it'll probably be rubber stamp) and that I must have it unloaded and locked in a container before going on Base. Because I think more administrative handling leads to greater risk Unintended Discharge and because repeated loading and unloading a revolver will not cause bullet setback, a revolver makes more sense to me for this application.

Knowing that 1) I'm cheap 2) I want a .38 snubbie so that I can put on my fedora and double-breasted suit and cosplay being Sam Spade... what 38 snub would you suggest?

On a related note, how interchangeable are speed loaders for 38 wheelies?

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
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#11 ·
*Edit: I just looked at Impact Guns, and now, the .38 Special version is over $600 like the .357 Magnum versions are.
I used to shop at Impact Guns all the time but now their prices have gotten ridiculous. I rarely darken their doorway now. Probably I have not been there in over four months.
 
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#4 ·
^^^ This. Unless you are going to become a hitman it is going to spend it's lifetime just "being there" in case you need it. It will give you what you want, is reliable and inexpensive. If your State allows it, I'm to lazy to run a check in the system, you can use a cross draw holster when you are in the car. I'm right handed and when I travel on personal business I wear a cross draw with the snubbie on my left front side. If a threat presents itself at the drivers door, it's fast and easy to draw and fire through the door.

Just my .02
 
#14 ·
Ok Mr. Lawson. Here is from two users of the Armscor/RIA M200 and M206 Snubbie. Aesthetically, not like any $500 to $900 revolver.
However, they shoot true to POA every time we shoot them. My wife loves the M206 hammerless Sbubbie.. Even with her Arthritis of hands and fingers. At 10 yards she shoots every time a max of 2-3" groups.

Now, I can say this. We have had both for perhaps 5 years now. Perhaps a bit less. Triggers were a bit stiff/grainy at first. However, I decided to try squirting some of my CLP into every orifice in the frame. Worked perfectly on both revolvers. Before we ever even got them broke in, triggers became pretty smooth and today are really smooth after broken in. One of these Snubbies, hammer or hammerless will suit you very, very well indeed.

https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2020/8/8/review-rock-island-armory-m206-revolver/
 
#20 ·
@ greg-r It's two words? Too tired to walk downstairs and look
 
#23 ·
No. I either fat fingered it, or I got spell checked!
 
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#22 ·
Another vote for the RIA. No, it will not hold up to 10,000 rounds of +P, but it will handle the occasional cylinder full. And probably all the standard pressure 38’s you want. Plus it will satisfy your frugality and your Sam Spade snubbie fetish.

I think you are a fan of Titegroup? That’s a very good powder for 38 special. I do not like it because I like a powder that comes close to filling the case. TG will not come close to filling the 38 spl case. Not many powders will. But TG is not position sensitive.
 
#44 ·
I think you are a fan of Titegroup? That's a very good powder for 38 special. I do not like it because I like a powder that comes close to filling the case. TG will not come close to filling the 38 spl case. Not many powders will. But TG is not position sensitive.
I've built thousands of 9mm rounds with Titegroup. I chose it initially because the math said it was most economical. I could build more rounds with less powder. But I decided I don't like it as much as I had hoped. The spread between min and max on 9mm is tiny and not easy to see visually. And it leaks from my powder measure. Every time I throw a charge, I get a dusting of powder leaking. I took to putting a container under my powder measure. After 50-100 powder drops, the container has what I'd guess is a full cartridge charge and I dump it back into the hopper.

To be fair, it seems that pretty much any ball powder tends to leak from my measure (Lee Perfect Powder Measure). Flake powders seem to leak a little too but not as much. Stick powders seem to leak the least, or maybe Trail Boss leaks the least. Anyway, Titegroup has been moved to the B roster, displaced by Unique.

One of the interesting things I'm finding about 38 is that there seems to be a wide range of powders which will work, ranging from Black Powder and BP substitute, through Trail Boss, through whatever. Heck, Hodgdon alone lists 22 different powders in their stable.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
#25 ·
I don’t have one, but I hear pretty good things about the RIA. I do have a Charter and a Taurus 85 (the 856’s little 5-shot brother). I have nothing but good things to say about either of them, and they are inexpensive (but not cheap).

I like mouse fart loads too. 2.8 gr Bullseye under either a 125 gr or 158 gr cast bullet are soft, quiet, and very accurate; even from a 2” barrel.
 
#27 ·
I have 1 smith 38 and a colt 357 and a ruger 357 and i like to just load some rounds up with just a primer and some rubber bullits that i make from hot glue to plink in the back yard or even in the house, they are real real quite and the only tools you need is to remove the spent primer and to load a new on in, use your fingers to load the bullits. Oh and your can reuse the same bullits over and over.
 
#28 ·
@lklawson - I don't have as many cases as Rach,but I could hook you up with about 100 or so. If Ican get my casting stuff out of the boxes this week, I can probably send some 158 SWC your way in the near future. 2.5 - 2.8 gr of BE is a good mouse fart load. There are others. What powders can you get?
 
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#33 ·
I have the Taurus 805, about $300, built for .357, so it can handle +P .38 easily, although for high round count, you’d be cleaning hard to avoid that ring from short cases.
 
#35 ·
I have the Taurus 805, about $300, built for .357, so it can handle +P .38 easily, although for high round count, you'd be cleaning hard to avoid that ring from short cases.
Right or wrong, I never shoot short cases in 357, just light load the longer ones.I avoid the ring and need only one length of brass. Saves time and ag-row-va-shun when sorting or loading brass
 
#34 ·
Just joined a new shooting range today. Checked out the pistol range and it looks as if no one picks up brass. I'm going back Thursday, I think, and spend sometime policing the area. We'll see what turns up
 
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#42 ·
I'm partial to the RIA. Have a M200 and a M206 spurless.

If you decide that you are going to get a 38 let me know. I've got a bunch of ready to load brass (and nickel plated) and some 125 gn RNFP cast that I can send.
Revolver Air gun Trigger Yellow Gun barrel
 
#48 ·
Carbon rings be damned... the ultimate mouse fart load
I've loaded a ton of these. Talk about fun. About 2.5 gr of Titegroup, 231, or Bullseye, and pop away.
What bullet do you use with that load? IIRC, 2.5 bullseye and a 147 wadcutter was "the load" for bullseye competition for years
 
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#51 ·
@lklawson , I've got 10lbs of cases. Right around 1k. Already separated in to CBC, FED, and Starline. Plus I've got the 4 die set. Never been used. Some surface corrosion from the NY humidity.
PM in bound.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
#52 ·
If anything buy a .357 and reload .38 special to your little hearts content.
From mild to wild.
When you get bored playing around you can still shoot real ammo.

 
#53 ·
I'm waiting for the response saying, "I don't want a .357, though. I just want a cheap .38."

Personally, I recommend the same thing you do. .38 Special hasn't really been all that cheap, and it gives pretty anemic performance in relation to the cost. .357 Magnum is a better value.
 
#59 ·
When there’s no difference in size or purchase price you should go for a .357
Shoot .38 special all day long for all I care but it’s a stronger gun and gives you more leeway and variety.
 
#68 ·
What you want and what you need are two different things.
It's science you know.

You could always go for a .22lr, hard to tell from the real thing.
Lethal to a mile and a half on top.

 
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