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River's Consolidated Custom Built Bullpup Thread

6K views 46 replies 12 participants last post by  moona11 
#1 ·
Just got a HP 995 Gen 2 and took it all apart to see what makes it tick. Haven't shot it yet as I need to order a mag. I notice a square hole in the LH side of the frame by the feed ramp that I cannot figure out the purpose of. Any ideas?
Thanks.
 
#6 ·
Come on, rick, stop messing with the new guy. We both know that running that drill in reverse will turn your carbine into a fully semi-automatic, clip fed assault machine-gun that can shoot 8000 magazine clip a minute and hit flies at more than a mile. It becomes the most sought after weapon in the hood!
 
#7 ·
Well personally i have never seen the square hole in any of mine but then i quess you have to take the gun apart to see it and in the 10 years i have had some of mine never need to take them apart for any reason, but i quess you do have to shoot them to get them dirty, bought both 995's used along with the 4095 and the 4595 new. 1 995 and 4095 have each had 2 mags thru them by me and the 4595 is still new never been shot after 6 years of ownership.
 
#12 ·
Just got a HP 995 Gen 2 and took it all apart to see what makes it tick. Haven't shot it yet as I need to order a mag. I notice a square hole in the LH side of the frame by the feed ramp that I cannot figure out the purpose of. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Can you post a pic? I can't find anything online that shows a square hole on the left hand side



Possibly a jig mount used during assembly?
 
#13 · (Edited)
I just took a pic, but this format needs a URL link. Can't find a button to pull a pic directly from my PC's photo gallery.
Me no like stinkin hole in side of frame. Where's my JB weld quick!
I bought a beater HP w/t intent to convert to HC Beretta 92F mags. The hole really weakens the frame considering I have to cut 3/4 of the bottom area away!!
I've already figured out a way to strengthen the frame though.

Maybe the hole was a early attempt at a LR bolt catch system that never panned out? As you are not aware of the hole, I assume this is Not how a new HP bolt catch system works.
 
#18 · (Edited)
The magazine alone will lock the bolt back? There are no other parts on my 995 that fit in this area.
There IS a squarish area cut out inside the LH side of the slide that would probably work with a LRHO. Something on the mag would have to reach through the side of the frame to catch the slide though.
I have a factory HP mag on order now.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I know there's a HTA bullpup "In general" thread, but I hate to dive into 1300+ replies to search for scattered answers and discussions of this topic.

So, I going to build a custom 995 bullpup! OK, stop laughing. I bought a beater, monkey stock 995 for THAT purpose and win or lose, I will try. If I win, cool. If I lose, the remains / parts will be sold here at a great discount!!

Sight lines:
The sight line of the 995 is about 1-3/4" above the cheek rest area of the classic stock.
The cheek rest area of the HTA MBS is about 1" higher than the classic stock CR area.
It appears on the HTA that the top rail is just slightly above the cheek rest area.
Will AR15 rail sights be a proper height for the HTA stocked HP? Are AR15 rail sights offered in different heights? I've researched this some and it seems a sight is a sight regardless of AR configuration and caliber. Anyone know the general sight line height of AR sights above the rail? Will a rail riser need to be used on a HTA to get the sights to a taller height?

Optics:
Same as above. What do you use on a HTA MBS and/or what lines up properly?

RE: My custom BP, at this planning stage time.
I'm looking at using the Leapers UTG flip up sights.
Metric FAL grip and sectioned lower w/ custom built trigger.
Mini forward grip
Square barrel shroud will have full length Picatinny rail on top and sides will be machined w/ M-Lok slots.
Metric or Inch FAL forward mounted charging handle.
Frame cover, slide and barrel shroud - misc square tubing and farm junk.
Optics?
 
#22 ·
If the sights are mounted to the same rail, or at the least, on the same plane; then it should be good to go regardless of sight height over bore. The only possible issue is if you're trying to keep the original front sight on the barrel and align the rear sight on the rail. Otherwise, nah, you're good to go, just get it zeroed when its all installed :)
 
#23 ·
It may not be too critical on a 9mm carbine, but bore to sight lines can be pretty tricky.
If you chop a FAL barrel from 21" to 16-1/4" your sight line, sight adjustments are out of spec. You cannot bury the front sight low enough to make up for the loss of bullet velocity to cross the sight line and hit the target based on the graduation of the rear sight. You generally have to put on a taller rear sight. Or you play the guessing game of: Put it on 3 to hit 200 yds. Put it on 4 to hit 380 yds. 5 is 450, etc.
If a 9mm carbine barrel and the sights are on a parallel plane, you will never hit the target. The rear sight must be high enough for the bullet to pass through the sight line at "say" 25 yds then drop back down on target at 100 yds. And once you get a set of sights calibrated and sighted in to your rifle, do you have to add a cheek riser to see the sights or take a rasp and carve a hollow into the stock to get you cheek low enough?

I figured there are some Hi Pointers who have used the HTA stock and already figured some of this out. I'm was just curious, but sure, I can build the cheek comb as I need or more likely add risers to adjust the sights as needed which is the easier path. The top of my BP will be pretty much like the HTA BP. Full length rail from rear sight to muzzle.
 
#24 ·
Weird thing is... when Colt did the XM177 series of carbines, they had to use a taller front sight post until the M4 Carbine came out with the taller F marked carbine front sight base so that the M16 and M4 can use the same front sight posts. Taking this into consideration, a shorter sight radius would require a taller front sight post or base, depending on the setup. On the other hand, the AR15 flip ups are already compensating for the sight radius and parallax alignments for the AR. FWIW, the F marked base is 1.98" tall from the edge of the 0.750" diameter to the machined surface between the ears, while the A1/A2 Rifle FSB is 1.94" from the same diameter to same surface. Adding the radius of 0.375 to 1.94 means a sight line height from bore centerline of 2.355".
 
#25 ·
Thanks CD
With the FAL, they were just shortening the bbl, but the sight radius was the same so that threw the sight base adjustment/ battle zero at 200m + the 3-6m bullet drop graduations off. The adjustable rear sight were only for a 21" I assume as when FN made 18 & 16" bbl FALs that just used a non adjustable fixed sight or a 0 - 200m "L" type flip aperture.

A company called Precision Armament sells Picatinny rail blanks that are 9/16" tall. I assume you drill and machine them to the height you need. Not cheap, so will have to shop around. I really don't like to have clamp on sights to clamp on risers, but that would work too.
 
#26 · (Edited)
We all know what the bolt retainer is. Now, just behind the bolt retainer is a vertical strip that is part of the trigger frame. I noticed there is a gap between the 2 parts. I would have thought the vertical frame strip would have supported the bolt retainer to keep it from bending back?

Then again, looking at the Numrich Arms parts diagram of a 1st Gen Hi Point carbine the frames vertical guide strip wasn't even used then!

Product Triangle Font Line Parallel
 
#27 · (Edited)
General consensus was couple of years ago that the original stock was flexibel (or sloppy) enough that it wasn't needed.
I've been working on my monkey stock 995 to DIY bullpup and had to figure out the max bolt travel during recoil. Yes, seems like the bolt stop is via hitting the inside of the stock. Outside of the stock, the bolt travel is a bit further even w/t recoil spring installed.

On my bullpup, I'm installing a 3/8" thick recoil buffer that will be about 1/8" forward of where the bolt currently stops in the monkey stock. Hoping the overall travel at full recoil will end up the same. The buffer will be accessible to trim the rubber down or add a flat washer behind if need be.

Any chance the TS stock could have a buffer of some sort installed for the bolt to impact?

Household hardware Gas Auto part Metal Nickel
Household hardware Wood Auto part Plastic Fashion accessory
 
#28 · (Edited)
This must be the most secretive feature of a HP carbine other than the rare NATO Stanag offset NV mount made in the Federated States of Micronesia when they were considering the HP 995 for their civilian militia.

I've seen old discussions about the bolt catch. Never have seen any pics of or how the catch actually works. Is the assembly all internal where you have to pull the mag from the carbine then pull the bolt back to release the catch? No external thumb gripper to release the bolt?
Is the catch attached to the frame or to the bolt?

Thanks
 
#29 ·
Is the assembly all internal where you have to pull the mag from the carbine then pull the bolt back to release the catch?
Yea. That one.
 
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#30 ·
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#31 · (Edited)
Thanks Adam! That pretty much explains everything. While my 995 frame has the square hole for the LRHO arm to reach the mag follower, the HO assembly was never installed. The bolt also has the clearance for the assembly.

As my bullpup conversion will have a open frame on the LH side, I should be able to fabricate a HO that can be externally tripped after a fresh mag is installed! I won't be able to mod and install an original HO assembly as my conversion will be using Beretta 92F mags.
 
#32 ·
Ok I suspect you have another post about this "project" and I am intrigued...
I did a work-up (pix and measurements) of this exact combo but in the Fouhty-S&W.
So a 4095 and a Beretta 96 mag combo. Beretta and most other, what I call "Euro-Spec"
double stack magazines (Browning Hi-Power, Beretta, CZ, Tanfoglio and other knock-offs)
are about as slim as a 9mm double stack gets. Many American 9mm use it as well.

I still saw a need for receiver clearancing, and there was a pesky linkage on the left
side. Without going back over it, I suspect that is the LRHO and that is why you are
on this current track. I also believe you are using the Monkey Gun stock??
@riverrover
 
#35 · (Edited)
Actually, I have not posted even one dedicated "build" thread on my project. I have commented about my project in other threads authored by other people. And I have authored a few threads inquiring about specific carbine designs and functionality that will help me with my project.

I find that addressing certain aspects of the carbine results in quicker answers, than just a cover it all thread about my pet project. Example: If I'm 8 pages into my (Building a bullpup) thread and I have a question about the LRHO, what are the chances that adam01364 will be following my build thread and be able to give me the helpful info that he provided?

As a newbie it's also fun to keep you all guessing who I am and what I'm up to!!
If I'm overwhelming the board with discussion and violating the rules I can leave. Sure don't want to cause too much trouble!!
 
#38 ·
Covering it all in one thread is more cohesive and effective, plus cross posting about the same subject, ie your project, is technically against the rules.

And Adam is a moderator, so if he's doing his job he should be reading every single post that's made... just like I do.
 
#37 ·
Thanks
There has been some design changes on my project that I assume at this time will be permanent!? LOL.

The top of the bbl shroud will sit about 1/8" lower than the receiver cover. I will probably attach a Pic rail to the receiver cover, but cut M-Lok slots into the top of the bbl shroud so I have the option of attaching Pic rail to M-Lok sections or other accessories that use M-Lok. This should give me more options than doing a semi-permanent rail right to the shroud. From what I've seen though. Most BUIS's and Optics still are set up for Pic rail and not M-Lok direct. I don't think it wise to M-Lok the receiver cover and that would allow rain, dirt, etc to get into the action more easily.

I WILL be in the market for about any Pic to M-Lok rail piece just to have a test part for finishing up any M-Lok cuts. I found the M-Lok slot specs online, but best to has a test part for fitting.

Based on my design, I'm also going to be able to run the stock tube down to the buttplate at an angle putting the top of the buttplate about 3/4 - 1" below the top of the receiver cover depending upon how long I want to make the stock tube.
 
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