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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone,

Just purchased my first HI Point a 4595 TS. I am not a novice shooter and was glad to see the
peep sight set up. Until I got to the range. Using a NRA B-8 target (I shoot 22 bullseye too)
at 25 yards at rest, my first shots were level but right into the 5 ring. I walked it back one to left one mark at a time. I finally got it zeroed but the back sight is all the way to the outer edge of the left mark. I went back to the range yesterday and it is dead on but the sight picture is awkward to say the least. Can any one help? I would really like the back sight to be somewhat close to center.

Thanks

11-22-20
Went to the range today. Had already indexed FSP & barrel and had turned the sight about half the width of the paint mark and set rear sight to center first shot was left of bullseyes about 2" but 6" high. Indexed front sight to housing raised up, about 2" high and still 2" left. Brought in with the back sights and this is the final picture zeroed at 25 yards
Thanks for the tip. IMG_0742.JPG
 

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Your front sight post is canted. Make a set of witness marks on the sight and the barrel, loosen up the set screws under the FSP body and rotate the front sight to the right (as you're looking down the sights) just enough to offset the witness marks you made. Tighten her back up and re-center your rear sight.
 

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Welcome to the club. That seems to be a very common thing in new carbines.
 
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That seems to be a very common thing in new carbines.
Have you seen the thread bitching about every shipping company in America? Lucky any make to their destination correct.
 
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Rachgier is correct. FSP is canted.

Another way to shoot these is use a decent Reddot and keep both eyes open or use a low single magnification scope(2 or 4) / low power variable scope(1-5x32)

My old eyes have hard time with open sights, so I have to use something to give me better advantage when shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your front sight post is canted. Make a set of witness marks on the sight and the barrel, loosen up the set screws under the FSP body and rotate the front sight to the right (as you're looking down the sights) just enough to offset the witness marks you made. Tighten her back up and re-center your rear sight.
Thanks, Sounds simple enough. I'll check back in after I try it. Nice folks here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Your front sight post is canted. Make a set of witness marks on the sight and the barrel, loosen up the set screws under the FSP body and rotate the front sight to the right (as you're looking down the sights) just enough to offset the witness marks you made. Tighten her back up and re-center your rear sight.
worked like a charm.
 

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I wasn't a fan of the factory sights and swapped to full length metal top rail and Magpul flip ups. Just an idea if you can't get the factory sights how you want them.
Hello;

I like your setup here. I came to a similar conclusion. I was having some problems with the rear sight having to be pegged to the right to be accurate. Got advice from this forum that front sight post was canted. Reccommendation was to score the barrel and post to allow alignment.

While I appreciate the advice, I was not entirely happy with that solution. I like to completely dissassemble the carbine when cleaning it (not leave the receiver shroud dangling on the barrel - it's too awkward to peer through the barrel and brush it that way). This requires removing the front sight post. I don't trust myself to re-align it exactly every time I put it back on (mark or no mark) - I feel like I would be in a never-ending battle to keep the rifle zeroed properly.

So, I picked up an aluminum top pic rail (for some additional stability) and a low profile AR-style sight (similar to the one you picture above). I had originally planned to use this with the existing front sight post (I got the new rear sight because I found the factory one with the little screws too difficult to adjust in low-lighting conditions in the field; the new one has large thumb-knobs for windage and elevation). But the more I thought about it - the more I thought "why not just mount the front sight on the pic rail?"

My only concern here is that I don't know to what degree I will lose accuracy because the sight is no longer "physically attached" to the barrel. It would seem that since the receiver shroud is fairly tightly pinned to the barrel that there would be minimal drift - but I do not have enough experience with this sort of thing to make that assumption.

I am having trouble weighing the convenience of not having to deal with removing/re-sighting the front post versus (the potential) lost accuracy of placing the front blade on the pic rail.

Any advice? Thanks
 

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Hello;

I like your setup here. I came to a similar conclusion. I was having some problems with the rear sight having to be pegged to the right to be accurate. Got advice from this forum that front sight post was canted. Reccommendation was to score the barrel and post to allow alignment.

While I appreciate the advice, I was not entirely happy with that solution. I like to completely dissassemble the carbine when cleaning it (not leave the receiver shroud dangling on the barrel - it's too awkward to peer through the barrel and brush it that way). This requires removing the front sight post. I don't trust myself to re-align it exactly every time I put it back on (mark or no mark) - I feel like I would be in a never-ending battle to keep the rifle zeroed properly.

So, I picked up an aluminum top pic rail (for some additional stability) and a low profile AR-style sight (similar to the one you picture above). I had originally planned to use this with the existing front sight post (I got the new rear sight because I found the factory one with the little screws too difficult to adjust in low-lighting conditions in the field; the new one has large thumb-knobs for windage and elevation). But the more I thought about it - the more I thought "why not just mount the front sight on the pic rail?"

My only concern here is that I don't know to what degree I will lose accuracy because the sight is no longer "physically attached" to the barrel. It would seem that since the receiver shroud is fairly tightly pinned to the barrel that there would be minimal drift - but I do not have enough experience with this sort of thing to make that assumption.

I am having trouble weighing the convenience of not having to deal with removing/re-sighting the front post versus (the potential) lost accuracy of placing the front blade on the pic rail.

Any advice? Thanks
It's a PCC, at typical use range, the practical accuracy of those sights on the longer rail should be no worse than the ammo's mechanical accuracy.
Besides, it takes 3-9 rounds to rezero...worth it, IMHO.

Also...Don't do it. The tear down and clean every trip thing, I mean. The manufacturer says run a bore brush through every few hundred rounds, but don't tear it down until 1500, IIRC. That really is all it needs; the wear and tear of frequent tear down is far worse to the longevity of the gun, than anything done by leaving it dirty.

And yes, I know....Marine armorers and grandpas would roll over in their graves. But none of them had a Zamak and polymer Hi Point to play with.
 

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. I like to completely dissassemble the carbine when cleaning
That's like doing a full service every time you drive a Yugo.
Seriously.
Don't listen to me, listen to Ajole.
 
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The first time I fired my 9mm carbine the front sight fell the f&^k off. So I am in the replace with Al-rail camp and you don't need to field strip the weapon every time you shoot it.
 

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Loctite is the answer.:rotfl:

That’s a sad thing to have happen on the first trip out. I’m in the “clear the bore and shoot a new gun” camp, I hate screwing with things before I shoot, because then I don’t know if I screwed it up, or they did. No detailed strip, no complete tear down and cleaning for me, until after I know the thing works, at least.

So that would have happened to me too.:cheers:
 
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