No.... 45 acp takes large pistol primers, the other two take small pistol primers. As far as powders go Unique will load all of those.
A few more reloading questions.
Hey guys, I'm not new to the forum, but i am new to reloading. I think i am going to start off with a lee anniversary kit. I Am wanting to load .45 ACP, 9MM luger, and .380 ACP. Is it possible to load all of the calibers with one brand of pwder and primers. I have been told that you need to follow very precise recipies when reloading.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
You will need Large pistol primers for the 45's and the .380 and 9mm will use small pistol.
As for powder, I like to use Bullseye for the shorter barrel pistols. Bullseye is a faster powder and will build the case pressure faster (read as less flash out the barrel). You will also use less powder. Down side: Bullseye will not fill the .45 acp case up so double charges can be a problem , so attention to detail is a must.
Also, Find a mentor the learn from.
As for powder, I like to use Bullseye for the shorter barrel pistols. Bullseye is a faster powder and will build the case pressure faster (read as less flash out the barrel). You will also use less powder. Down side: Bullseye will not fill the .45 acp case up so double charges can be a problem , so attention to detail is a must.
Also, Find a mentor the learn from.
Right now, I am going to start out with Unique powder as I was given over half a bottle in a deal that I made with Taurus357.
As for books, I have the Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading Vols 1 and 2 that Taurus357 gave me for helping him fix his ceiling. There is some really good data in there as volume 1 is the reload data and volume 2 is nothing but ballistics for all of the reload recipies posted in volume 1. You could get lost in these books. You can find them on Amazon.com, BAM.com or any other major book seller. Just do a google search for it and you'll get a bunch of results. It also gives you data on what powder works best with what primer etc. These manuals are really a must have, I love them.
As for books, I have the Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading Vols 1 and 2 that Taurus357 gave me for helping him fix his ceiling. There is some really good data in there as volume 1 is the reload data and volume 2 is nothing but ballistics for all of the reload recipies posted in volume 1. You could get lost in these books. You can find them on Amazon.com, BAM.com or any other major book seller. Just do a google search for it and you'll get a bunch of results. It also gives you data on what powder works best with what primer etc. These manuals are really a must have, I love them.
Lee's book isn't too bad but to much wasted space on why he thinks Lee uis superior to all else.
I've read it but not bought it (Library Loan).
I have several reloading manuals, Lyman, Hornady, some for individual calibers, powder manufacturers and a few others as well as more library loans that I've read but not pirchased.
I really suggest the library, read the books and purchase those you find most helpful or informative.
Almost all of the books will teach you something more, different or better so read as many as you can.
I've read it but not bought it (Library Loan).
I have several reloading manuals, Lyman, Hornady, some for individual calibers, powder manufacturers and a few others as well as more library loans that I've read but not pirchased.
I really suggest the library, read the books and purchase those you find most helpful or informative.
Almost all of the books will teach you something more, different or better so read as many as you can.
One piece of advice I can give in regards to loading, don't try to do too much at once. IN otherwords, don't try to accomplish all your loading steps quickly, take your time and spread them out until you get used to it.
For example, don't bell each case, then charge it, then put the bullet on it and put it into the tray as one long step, keep each of those steps separate for each batch. Just safer.
And seat and crimp on two different steps at first. Back the crimp die out a bit so its doesn't hit the shell, then set the seating die, seat all your bullets, then loosen the seating die quite a bit, then crimp your rounds. Just less chance of making mistakes (over seating bullets for example).
For example, don't bell each case, then charge it, then put the bullet on it and put it into the tray as one long step, keep each of those steps separate for each batch. Just safer.
And seat and crimp on two different steps at first. Back the crimp die out a bit so its doesn't hit the shell, then set the seating die, seat all your bullets, then loosen the seating die quite a bit, then crimp your rounds. Just less chance of making mistakes (over seating bullets for example).
G
Once the powder goes into my shell the bullet gets seated. I do not want to have a tray of powdered shells sitting there and get called away. Then come back and wonder where I am in the loading process. For me and the way my weird mind works that runs way to big a risk for a double or no charged round. I do do all my sizing and priming, and crimping in bulk... But the powder and the seating happen together..
I'm just the opposite of ARI.
When using the Lee single stage to do my 9mm on I'll do 100 at a time. 100 powder then 100 seatings then 100 crimpings.
My work bench is well sized so that I can keep things seperated and the ones with powder have openings at the top, the ones without powder have the base up.
Just find what works best for you as everyone is different.
When using the Lee single stage to do my 9mm on I'll do 100 at a time. 100 powder then 100 seatings then 100 crimpings.
My work bench is well sized so that I can keep things seperated and the ones with powder have openings at the top, the ones without powder have the base up.
Just find what works best for you as everyone is different.
Virgil,
Check out the Lee Deluxe Turret Press Kit with Auto Indexer before you get the Anniversary Kit. With the calibers you intend to load the Turret Press would be the way to go. With a Turret system you can set up a turret plate with 3 or 4 dies for your .45, another turret plate with your 9mm dies, etc etc and when you want to change calibers all you do is swap out the turret plates. Then if using one of the auto powder throwers you readjust the throw weigh, swap primer arm if needed, and you are ready to go.
I bought the Lee Deluxe Turret Press Kit and really like it. Right now I am set up for .44 Special and still in the load development process for my revolvers. Eventually I will add 9mm, .380 and 9x18 Makarov. What I like about the Turret Press with Auto Indexer is it can be used with or without the auto indexer feature. Basically if I want to develope a load I disable the auto indexer and rotate the die plate manually once I get each die set precisely where I want it. Once I get a load developed I run it in auto index mode and you would be amazed at how fast you can load with it. Here's a video link to the Lee Turret Press in action...
Lee Turret Press in action
rimfirehunter
Check out the Lee Deluxe Turret Press Kit with Auto Indexer before you get the Anniversary Kit. With the calibers you intend to load the Turret Press would be the way to go. With a Turret system you can set up a turret plate with 3 or 4 dies for your .45, another turret plate with your 9mm dies, etc etc and when you want to change calibers all you do is swap out the turret plates. Then if using one of the auto powder throwers you readjust the throw weigh, swap primer arm if needed, and you are ready to go.
I bought the Lee Deluxe Turret Press Kit and really like it. Right now I am set up for .44 Special and still in the load development process for my revolvers. Eventually I will add 9mm, .380 and 9x18 Makarov. What I like about the Turret Press with Auto Indexer is it can be used with or without the auto indexer feature. Basically if I want to develope a load I disable the auto indexer and rotate the die plate manually once I get each die set precisely where I want it. Once I get a load developed I run it in auto index mode and you would be amazed at how fast you can load with it. Here's a video link to the Lee Turret Press in action...
Lee Turret Press in action
rimfirehunter
Ari,
If you move up to Turret press go ahead and get the 4 hole turret model instead of the 3 hole model. The 4th hole is for the Carbide Factory Crimp die, or you can install another Seat/Crimp die and have the seating and crimping operation running on seperate strokes of the lever.
The .44 Special dies I have were given to me and they dont include the Factory Crimp, but I intend to add this die at a later date because a factory crimp is desired when shooting revolvers or tube feed lever rifles.
rimfirehunter
If you move up to Turret press go ahead and get the 4 hole turret model instead of the 3 hole model. The 4th hole is for the Carbide Factory Crimp die, or you can install another Seat/Crimp die and have the seating and crimping operation running on seperate strokes of the lever.
The .44 Special dies I have were given to me and they dont include the Factory Crimp, but I intend to add this die at a later date because a factory crimp is desired when shooting revolvers or tube feed lever rifles.
rimfirehunter
With the 3 die sets that come from Lees Precision, is the bullet seat die also a crimp die or is this a totally different die? I've heard the crimp die question before, but I'd like some clarification. I know you can shoot the ammo loaded with the seating die, but do you have to have a separate crimp die?
No, you do not need a seperate crimp die.With the 3 die sets that come from Lees Precision, is the bullet seat die also a crimp die or is this a totally different die? I've heard the crimp die question before, but I'd like some clarification. I know you can shoot the ammo loaded with the seating die, but do you have to have a separate crimp die?
I forget which one it is but I believe it is either Hornady or Speer that does not recommend a crimp at all.
G
Ok the three die set will crimp. But not like the factory crimp die... The factory crimp die also does a post resize on the round. It also does a better job with the crimp.. There are many schools of thought on the crimp. But I think (from what I have studied and seen) you should crimp everything. This keeps the bullet in place while going up the feed ramp and after the round is fired it keeps the round in the shell long enough for the pressure to get built up.With the 3 die sets that come from Lees Precision, is the bullet seat die also a crimp die or is this a totally different die? I've heard the crimp die question before, but I'd like some clarification. I know you can shoot the ammo loaded with the seating die, but do you have to have a separate crimp die?
G
No you don`t have to use another die to crimp.With the 3 die sets that come from Lees Precision, is the bullet seat die also a crimp die or is this a totally different die? I've heard the crimp die question before, but I'd like some clarification. I know you can shoot the ammo loaded with the seating die, but do you have to have a separate crimp die?
Some regular crimp dies leave a small bulge where the crimp is formed. The Lee Facrory crimp die does not.
Light crimping is usually desireable to retain the bullet during recoil but it is easy to go overboard.
Read, study, start slowly and if you know someone who you are sure knows their stuff, use them. If you see them exceeding load data regularly stay back when shooting with them.......way back. :shock:
Another question...
I have a friend that told me he reloads steel cased boxer primed mil surp ammo regularly. He said that the carbide dies from Lees will work just fine with this type of ammo case and he's never had a problem with it.
How much truth, if any, is in this statement?
I have a friend that told me he reloads steel cased boxer primed mil surp ammo regularly. He said that the carbide dies from Lees will work just fine with this type of ammo case and he's never had a problem with it.
How much truth, if any, is in this statement?
G
I wouldn`t do what he does but I know a couple who do with mixed results. There is nothing wrong with the Lee dies for most applications. I started with the Lee turret and loaded with and without the Factory Crimp die. Except for some .45 auto both worked well for me. My .45 problems didn`t go away untill I went to a Dillon 550.Another question...
I have a friend that told me he reloads steel cased boxer primed mil surp ammo regularly. He said that the carbide dies from Lees will work just fine with this type of ammo case and he's never had a problem with it.
How much truth, if any, is in this statement?
The fact I had problems only can be blamed on me, (and the used pos auto I had at that time) and should not reflect on Lee. I still use the Lee when working up new loads in small quantities. The dies for .38 have seen many thousand rounds and are still in very good condition.
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