I just picked up a 995 from the local gun store that has seen better days!!! It looks like someone tried to paint the camo stock black. Than tried to remove the paint. it looks like total crap. On a good note i havent found any rust other than the 2 screws in the grip. I bought it for $125, it came with the original sight and original scope. I'm missing the sling, sling mounts, and mag. I'll put up some pics in a minute
Abused 995
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I'm wondering if it was a cammo'd 995 to begin with....
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I say, send it back to HP and explain the condition, and odds are you'll get a shiny weapon safety checked back in no time!! BUT......
If the weapon cycle's fine and you just want to refinish it in a DIY method, here's a few tips:
On the poly stock:
-Sand down the stock LIGHTLY to even out the finish and to make the surface a bit more rough
-Head down to your favourite hardware store and pick up a can of Krylon Fusion polymer paint in whatever colour you like (I assume black will be the preferred shade, but I have seen OD green and sand work quite well)
-Spray onto the stock (once DETACHED from the weapon...gotta say that at least) while taping off the leading edges of the weapon (any face or edge that is not exposed while the gun is assembled). Follow the procedure on the can
Do that, and the stock will look shiny new 8)
Now, if the steel is discoloured and you need to re-blue the weapon, the BEST way for a home user is a cold-bluing method following these steps
-Disassemble the weapon
-Use a non-petrol based solvent to remove any oil, and remove any other plastic elements attached to the gun
-Mix a "citric stripper" compound to remove the majority of the bluing and leftover paint. This is achieved by mixing 5 packets or a citric Kool-Aide (unsweetened, cherry or fruit punch seems to have the most acid) to two tablespoons of water. Mix more or less as needed. Spread onto the rifle and let stand for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that, scrub the metal parts down and you will find that nearly all of the finish has been stripped away without any chemical fumes or scarring to the steel!!
-Using a hard felt dremel head and a #3 steel polishing compound, apply a moderate coating on the portion of the steel you are working and then directly buff out in a figure eight pattern ALL of the bluing. The steel compound might be a bit hard and could use with a little warming up (just stick it under an incandecent lamp for a few minutes and that should be MORE than enough). Now, you will have to work in a small areas to get a GOOD polish, but it's worth the effort to get a QUALITY job. Take care not to overwork one area, and to always keep the rotorhead moving and never leave it standing on one spot. Ever. This will mar the steel, even with a felt head.
-Finish off the polishing by coating the piece liberally in Brasso brand brass and soft alloy cleaner. Let the polish dry on the surface. Then buff in the same manner as the steel compound, but not as long. This gives a more finished appearance to the metal and a more even polish.
Now you are ready for a cold bluing!!!
You can find the cold bluing compound Brichwood-Casey's Perma Blue liquid gun blue at just about any sports hunting or firearms store (even China-Mart). A 3oz bottle ran me about $8. It seemed to have the best reviews and was the most common on the shelf. Also, the application process was pretty straightforward and only required a few items:
-Cold water and a decent tub to do the work (The shower worked perfect)
-000 Steel Wool
-Application sponges or rags (clean and free of any oils)
-A clean towel that you don't care too much about
-PPE (Personal Protective Equipment: Chemical Resistant gloves, eye protection and clothes you're not too attached to.)
-Aerosol-applied gun oil
-De-natured rubbing alcohol
Clean the gun of all impurities and dry it. Then, with a moist sponge, apply the bluing agent to the sponge and then onto the rifle, giving it a thin, even coat. Follow the instructions to let it sit for about a minute, and then rinsed the entire work surface with cold water.
After rinsing the work surface, begin to even the finish with a pad of 000 steel wool, working the grains that didn't get covered by the original solution. Now, this is where you begin to see the chemical reaction take place. The steel being treated will start to actually turn the minute you apply the solution, but the finish really doesn't begin to even out until the iron from the steel wool comes in contact. It's kinda cool actually!
Now, the bottle touts it as being a one-application finish. This simply is not true. But, after you dry, re-apply and repeat several (or in this case, seven) times, the effect is VERY good!
Upon the final treatment, let it air dry, then come back to remove the remainder oxidation with a slightly moist towel. Then, after drying the work surface, apply a layer of gun oil to the rifle and evenly wipe down the entire piece. After that, use an aresol based gun oil (I suggest RemOil) and shoot the entire work surface and let sit overnight.
In the morning, you will have perfectly blued steel that will look even BETTER than the factory finish!!
Then, reassemble the rifle in reverse order, lube all critical points, do a full points inspection and enjoy at the range!
If the weapon cycle's fine and you just want to refinish it in a DIY method, here's a few tips:
On the poly stock:
-Sand down the stock LIGHTLY to even out the finish and to make the surface a bit more rough
-Head down to your favourite hardware store and pick up a can of Krylon Fusion polymer paint in whatever colour you like (I assume black will be the preferred shade, but I have seen OD green and sand work quite well)
-Spray onto the stock (once DETACHED from the weapon...gotta say that at least) while taping off the leading edges of the weapon (any face or edge that is not exposed while the gun is assembled). Follow the procedure on the can
Do that, and the stock will look shiny new 8)
Now, if the steel is discoloured and you need to re-blue the weapon, the BEST way for a home user is a cold-bluing method following these steps
-Disassemble the weapon
-Use a non-petrol based solvent to remove any oil, and remove any other plastic elements attached to the gun
-Mix a "citric stripper" compound to remove the majority of the bluing and leftover paint. This is achieved by mixing 5 packets or a citric Kool-Aide (unsweetened, cherry or fruit punch seems to have the most acid) to two tablespoons of water. Mix more or less as needed. Spread onto the rifle and let stand for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that, scrub the metal parts down and you will find that nearly all of the finish has been stripped away without any chemical fumes or scarring to the steel!!
-Using a hard felt dremel head and a #3 steel polishing compound, apply a moderate coating on the portion of the steel you are working and then directly buff out in a figure eight pattern ALL of the bluing. The steel compound might be a bit hard and could use with a little warming up (just stick it under an incandecent lamp for a few minutes and that should be MORE than enough). Now, you will have to work in a small areas to get a GOOD polish, but it's worth the effort to get a QUALITY job. Take care not to overwork one area, and to always keep the rotorhead moving and never leave it standing on one spot. Ever. This will mar the steel, even with a felt head.
-Finish off the polishing by coating the piece liberally in Brasso brand brass and soft alloy cleaner. Let the polish dry on the surface. Then buff in the same manner as the steel compound, but not as long. This gives a more finished appearance to the metal and a more even polish.
Now you are ready for a cold bluing!!!
You can find the cold bluing compound Brichwood-Casey's Perma Blue liquid gun blue at just about any sports hunting or firearms store (even China-Mart). A 3oz bottle ran me about $8. It seemed to have the best reviews and was the most common on the shelf. Also, the application process was pretty straightforward and only required a few items:
-Cold water and a decent tub to do the work (The shower worked perfect)
-000 Steel Wool
-Application sponges or rags (clean and free of any oils)
-A clean towel that you don't care too much about
-PPE (Personal Protective Equipment: Chemical Resistant gloves, eye protection and clothes you're not too attached to.)
-Aerosol-applied gun oil
-De-natured rubbing alcohol
Clean the gun of all impurities and dry it. Then, with a moist sponge, apply the bluing agent to the sponge and then onto the rifle, giving it a thin, even coat. Follow the instructions to let it sit for about a minute, and then rinsed the entire work surface with cold water.
After rinsing the work surface, begin to even the finish with a pad of 000 steel wool, working the grains that didn't get covered by the original solution. Now, this is where you begin to see the chemical reaction take place. The steel being treated will start to actually turn the minute you apply the solution, but the finish really doesn't begin to even out until the iron from the steel wool comes in contact. It's kinda cool actually!
Now, the bottle touts it as being a one-application finish. This simply is not true. But, after you dry, re-apply and repeat several (or in this case, seven) times, the effect is VERY good!
Upon the final treatment, let it air dry, then come back to remove the remainder oxidation with a slightly moist towel. Then, after drying the work surface, apply a layer of gun oil to the rifle and evenly wipe down the entire piece. After that, use an aresol based gun oil (I suggest RemOil) and shoot the entire work surface and let sit overnight.
In the morning, you will have perfectly blued steel that will look even BETTER than the factory finish!!
Then, reassemble the rifle in reverse order, lube all critical points, do a full points inspection and enjoy at the range!
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great answer Neothespian I am going to print that out for future use. thanks
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Allright, Im not trying to be a total dick (alright, maybe I am), but the reason we havent seen the 4595 and the new stock produced yet is because everyone is sending their goddamn 995s they just bought used in for repair. These guys are probably so busy tearing down and performing general maitenance the owner should be doing that they dont have time to take a dump. Cmon guys, dont abuse the warranty. The only thing wrong with your rifle is a bad paint job, and a missing mag..which is your fault for buying the gun in that condition. You should not get a "shiny new one" out of this deal. I know its great to have a company that stands by their products, but if everyone keeps abusing it, they will be out of business form giving away free mags and technical support, and we will have nothing. 
Original quote edited to remove profanity -- gtvAllright, Im not trying to be a total dick (alright, maybe I am), but the reason we havent seen the 4595 and the new stock produced yet is because everyone is sending their ******* 995s they just bought used in for repair. These guys are probably so busy tearing down and performing general maitenance the owner should be doing that they dont have time to take a dump. Cmon guys, dont abuse the warranty. The only thing wrong with your rifle is a bad paint job, and a missing mag..which is your fault for buying the gun in that condition. You should not get a "shiny new one" out of this deal. I know its great to have a company that stands by their products, but if everyone keeps abusing it, they will be out of business form giving away free mags and technical support, and we will have nothing.
When I purchased my 995 used, I contacted Hi-Point to order the scope rail (which was not included with my purchase). I was advised by the HP representative that I should return the carbine to them for a thorough safety check. HP also advises purchasers not to strip their weapons for cleaning, but to send them back to the factory after so may rounds to be stripped and cleaned, and a maintenance check performed. It is a good business strategy: there is much less likelihood of their guns going KB if they are maintained by their own technicians, thus less likelihood of lawsuits and bad press. I agree that if you bought the weapon with the stock in that condition, they should not have to provide a new stock, but a safety check should be performed by the professionals.
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799 Posts
1.Wow Bitter much?Allright, Im not trying to be a total dick (alright, maybe I am), but the reason we havent seen the 4595 and the new stock produced yet is because everyone is sending their goddamn 995s they just bought used in for repair. These guys are probably so busy tearing down and performing general maitenance the owner should be doing that they dont have time to take a dump. Cmon guys, dont abuse the warranty. The only thing wrong with your rifle is a bad paint job, and a missing mag..which is your fault for buying the gun in that condition. You should not get a "shiny new one" out of this deal. I know its great to have a company that stands by their products, but if everyone keeps abusing it, they will be out of business form giving away free mags and technical support, and we will have nothing.
2. I bought the warrenty when I bought the weapon I paid for it i can use it how ever I like
3. If the warrenty were causing the problems they would just revert back to the one owner warrenty that is accually included with the weapon. The folks at Hi Point extend this awsome warrenty by choice, they prefer to handle things this way. I offered to buy a new stock for my 995 when I bought mine used and it had been damaged. They insisted on replaceing the stock free of charge even though the damage to the stock was done intentionally by the previous owner. Thats how they do business.
4. There are lots of reasons the 4595 is not out yet, market research is prolly the big one The 4095 kinda flopped so I can see why there is some relictancy to drop a bunch of money into something that may fail. Esspecially in the current economy, smart companies are embeaceing a K.I.S,S, mentality right now.
5. :welcome: but no one likes a self admitted Richard
6. More on topic nice grab on the 995 I kinda like the cammo stock I wonder if they would just sell me one???
Wow and this is coming from some a--hole that has a whole 4 posts.........I'm not saying that i'm an old timer around here with 10 posts.Allright, Im not trying to be a total dick (alright, maybe I am), but the reason we havent seen the 4595 and the new stock produced yet is because everyone is sending their goddamn 995s they just bought used in for repair. These guys are probably so busy tearing down and performing general maitenance the owner should be doing that they dont have time to take a dump. Cmon guys, dont abuse the warranty. The only thing wrong with your rifle is a bad paint job, and a missing mag..which is your fault for buying the gun in that condition. You should not get a "shiny new one" out of this deal. I know its great to have a company that stands by their products, but if everyone keeps abusing it, they will be out of business form giving away free mags and technical support, and we will have nothing.
BTW I called Hi-point to see if they would seed me a new stock and missing parts and i was told to send it in as is
98pointsix, when I was looking at buying my carbine I called Hi-Point and asked if I could purchase a new camo stock...they told me that they were no longer making them. I lucked out and found a new 995 with a camo stock from the "b" series. The reason they still had it was because it was camo.
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