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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,



just wanted to put this out there.. see if anyone can point me in the right direction.. I am not a mechanic just a cheep computer tech that doesn't want to pay a repair shop if i don't have to!

I have a 99 Mazda Protege 1.8 , it has about 120,000 miles on it. My wife was pulling out of a parking lot and the car died out and wouldn't restart.
this is what I've done so far.

Checked fuel pressure, fuel pump is kicking on, the fuel filter is part of the pump..
Replaced spark plugs and made sure it has spark
pulled the timing cover and inspected the timing belt, it looks fine.

if anyone has anymore suggestions it would be appreciated
 

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Does it start anymore, is there gas in it,...check alternator, battery, starter, battery cables, battery terminals
 

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You checked the actual pressure with a gauge or just can hear the pump?

You should also check all of the fuses as a fuse blow that powers the injectors would cause this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry left that out... it cranks strong but will not start.. Yes to Gas, battery good, cleaned the battery terminals made sure they were tight.
I used a Gauge to test the pressure, pressure was in the spec with Manuel..my buddy checked all the fuses under the hood with a tester..
seeing as its half ford i also checked the shut off switch under the dash
 

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Is it getting any real SPark??? If the voltage regulator went it will crank and Run that is until you let of the key. Without seeing it Hard to be of any real help.

Good luck man.
 

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Sounds like it has something to do with your fuel delivery maybe the fuel injectors. You might want to ask one of the mods or admins to move this to the lounge for ya. Everybody checks out the lounge, and some of them are real good mechanics this seems like its going to be a tricky one to figure out.
 

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hello,

check for spark at the spark plug, also if it is getting fuel and no spark the plugs should smell of raw fuel. if no spark it could be the ingnition module or the coil pack.
 

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Sounds like a bad crank sensor to me, or could possibly be a cam sensor. Both of these will casue the vehicle to exhibit the behavior you're speaking of.. Unfortunately there's no effective way to check if the sensor is faulty, only to replace it.

If any of the fuses/main breakers were blown/tripped, you would not have both fuel and spark.

+1 to checking for CELs. Do you have a code scanner?
 

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Sounds like a bad crank sensor to me, or could possibly be a cam sensor. Both of these will casue the vehicle to exhibit the behavior you're speaking of.. Unfortunately there's no effective way to check if the sensor is faulty, only to replace it.

If any of the fuses/main breakers were blown/tripped, you would not have both fuel and spark.

+1 to checking for CELs. Do you have a code scanner?
While I think you're on the right track, it's untrue to say that they can't be checked. I'd get a OBDII scanner that can see the data stream from the computer and see if you have a crank signal. If you don't, I'd try to dig up a wiring diagram of the engine's emission controls and check the cam & crank sensors. They're probably either magnetic or hall effect sensors that can be identified by either a 2 or 3 wire harness connector, respectively. Could also be the throttle position sensor shorted at WOT shutting off the fuel or a shorted coolant sensor telling the computer it's 250° when the engine is cold. Either of those would keep it from starting. Pretty much need to put down the screwdriver and test light and get into the ECM to go any further, IMHO.

Or, tow it to a dude who's got all that. ^-^
 

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Quickest/easiest check for whether it's lack of fuel is to have someone crank it while you spritz starting fluid into the throttle body. If it fires up and runs on starting fluid, it's lack of fuel. If it doesn't, probably not a fuel issue. A test light on the ground side of an injector should flash while cranking if the injectors are working properly.

You looked at the timing belt, did you watch it while the engine is cranked? Had a Dodge once that peeled all the ribs off the belt at the crank, looked fine up top but the belt wasn't turning. If it is turning, watch the underside for missing ribs that could allow it to slip time. Also check the tension, if it's real loose it may have slipped.

Does your car have some sort of factory anti-theft system? If something tripped it it may not be allowing the car to run.
 

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LoL

I was actually referring to the O/P being able to check the sensors on his own... not too many people have their own real-time scanning equipment... perhaps I should have phrased that better ^-^
 

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Two weeks bro. Did you get it worked out????

Hoping for the best for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got it rolling this week, turns out it was the timing belt tensioner, so i swapped out the belt and the tensioner.. up and running!! thanks all for the info

Edit: I didn't think it was the timing belt due to the crank turning, belt was in pretty good shape, but it was only 30 bucks so swapped it out while i was in there
 

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be carefull, With timing tensioners, if they go out.. there is a chance your timing chain will be soon to go also. Doesn't always happen, but I HAVE seen it multiple times. (least with Motorcycles, but bike engines are the same as cars just smaller) Just a FYI.. not saying it will, but it might.
 

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If they are INSIDE the motor.. which they are.. they are a CHAIN... might be called a belt.. but its a chain....
 
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