Anybody paint or powder coat their 995?

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by Langford, Jan 11, 2008.

  1. Langford

    Langford Guest

    Im not too thrilled with the finish on my 995, it just looks cheap in my opinion. I was thinking about having the metal receiver cover (or whatever you want to call it) powdercoated a matte black to match the ATI stock, or maybe just spray bomb it flat black. A buddy of mine does powder coating, so it wouldnt be too expensive to have done.

    The only problem I could see would be where the bolt handle slides, it may rub a little and scratch the paint/powdercoat....but a little piece of felt on the back side of the handle should take care of that.

    Anybody done this yet? Thoughts, or ideas on doing this?


  2. Ari

    Ari Guest

    yes there has been. There was a real nice duracoat

  3. browwiw

    browwiw Member

    If I could put it down long enough, I'd paint my 995.
  4. I got mine powder coated. Watch out for where the bolts go though and where the barrel shroud inserts, not too thick in those spots. Also, it will most likely erase the stamping on the side.


    A good tip to remove the original bluing is to use koolaid mixed into a paste. Will strip that stuff right off.

  5. Langford

    Langford Guest

    Thanks guys!

    Bushman98, that looks much better. I will keep the kool-aid trick in mind, Im also looking forward to testing out one of your triggers and bolt handles. I think I may go ahead and talk to my buddy about powdercoating, that seems like it will be the best route.
  6. burboy

    burboy Guest

    I bought a 995 from a guy here on the forum a year or so ago. He had painted the stock with that new Krylon plastic paint. It was holding up really well but I hated the color so I sent it back to Hi-Point and they put a new stock on it for me.
  7. [​IMG]

    My 4095 duracoated HK semigloss black. It had a camo stock which was also duracoated the same color.

    koolaid removes bluing?! Neat!
  8. Well technically its the citric acid in the Koolaid. I forgot to mention, get the sugar free kind (the one you have to add sugar to), its less sticky.
  9. Langford

    Langford Guest

    I really like the look of that duracoat, but I dont have any spray equipment. It would be nice if it came in a rattle can. Did you remove the bluing, or just spray over top of it?
  10. used the brillo pad and throughly degreased.

    Lauer sells kits with the color of your choice, a propellant can, and a cheap(harbor freight) airbrush for <50 bucks.

    Know anybody who does car spraywork? HVLP guns also work well for it.
  11. Someone here had a link to a product that was pretty much a powdercoat in a can. You cleaned the part, spayed it with this stuff, and then had to bake it.

    I cant remember if it was this one: LACQUER LIQUID

    but I remember it had a couple of how to videos.
  12. thanksbushman I was about to link to the brownells. I think another company has something similar out as well.
  13. I used Brownells baking enamel on mine, as well as a couple AK kits, the stuff works great and is super easy to use.
  14. Langford

    Langford Guest

    is the brownells something you can do in your home oven without stinking up the house?

    So do you need to remove the factory bluing or just clean the part really well before hand?


    I just looked up brownells on youtube, there are a bunch of instructional videos made by the company...I'm going to watch those and see if they answer all of my questions.
  15. I sand blasted, degreased, sprayed it and baked it.

    Hi points Blues parts are rough enough, you wouldn't have to blast it, I had some surface rust.

    It does smell some, it does not linger if you can open a window.
  16. Langford

    Langford Guest

    After watching all of their videos, I think Im going to go with the aluma-hyde II spray. You dont have to bake this finish, but it does take a few weeks to cure. They said they highly recommend that you sand blast if you use the bake-on finishes...and I dont want to have to go through all of that. With the aluma-hyde, you just have to remove all of the grease and oil, and give it 4 or 5 light coats and then let it dry for up to two weeks.

    I'm going to order their cleaner, and a can of the matte black. Im just not sure If I want to get creative and order some gray also to do either a two-tone or maybe some camo.
  17. NeWcS

    NeWcS Guest

    Here's mine.


    I know its bright but thats the look I was going for, It really turns heads at the range.

    If I did it again I would go with a light gray. That would look cool against the black IMO

  18. People are two toning their weapons with that light OD green paint too, that is really nice looking.
  19. i'm trying to decide what to do with my spare stock. forest camo, more of a general camo(more coyote brown), or OD.