ARGH! You all gave me black rifle fever :(

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by Fenix, Mar 13, 2008.

  1. Fenix

    Fenix Guest

    Well now you've all gone and done it. I'm craving one of these now:

    Well, with the likelihood of another AWB coming up, I'm seriously considering an m4gery. I know plenty of people here have experience building them so I'm looking for advice. I'm already decided on getting the reciever and upper seperately, but was wondering if anybody had any advice on which one? I am really wanting an upper from POF ( for the reliability factor+requires no maintenance if the S ever hits the fan. For cost effectiveness without sacrificing quality I was considering the DPMS assembled lower ( Anybody think this is a good idea? The buttstock and grip I have already decided on, but anyone have anything that might help? Thanks in advance.[/img]

    EDIT: I am particularly looking for less expensive lowers/lower parts/complete lowers, as the least expensive good one I've found is this:
  2. elguapo

    elguapo Guest

    You are going the spendy way to put together an AR. The lower without a buttstock...I am sure you can find some assembled WITH buttstock, tube, buffer and spring for at least that price. That upper you chose, is probably one of the most expensive, by being gas piston, vs gas operated system common to the AR family. I am going to look for some links for you.

  3. Fenix

    Fenix Guest

  4. Fenix

    Fenix Guest

    Ok, well got mostly everything picked out, just one dilemma left. I can't decide whether to get a free floating railed handguards for $70 or a rail kit for the CAR handguards for $15. THe CAR handguards would keep things out of the barrel, but would keep the blown back powder in (I am installing a gas-piston).

    This is what the inside of the handguards look like from the piston.

    The railed handguard "may" improve accuracy (not sure how much) and allow the burned powder to escape, but costs more and would allow debris back into the upper (I think). Can anybody with knowledge on railed uppers help me out, cause I don't know if debris can get back in the rifle through them (or is it sealed off, the tube I would be getting would be this:
  5. neothespian

    neothespian Member

    Ya know, I've seen many, got a chance to fire ElGuapo's AR (A fine machine if I may say so btw..well built), but .....

    DUDE!!! They're SO expensive! Seriously. You can start at a "Bargain" unit for $600 and easily go past $3,000. I'm not saying that they're bad rifles...but I just can't see spending more on a gun than I can spend on my entire set of kitchen appliances :p

    But, this is coming from a guy who's brass plating a $70 surplus rifle, so I know, I know...
  6. Fenix

    Fenix Guest

    Actually, mine will come out to about $1200 with all the goodies I've selected, and that INCLUDES the gas-piston. Now if I can stop being so indecisive....
  7. you can keep it bro. I'll keep my .308 and 7.62x39. you know, effective calibers in guns that don't jam :lol:
  8. Fenix

    Fenix Guest

    I didn't say I was only getting an AR :p
  9. Ridge

    Ridge Member

    Ive been thinking about mounting some free floats, but decided against it because it would require taking off the FSB and flash hider, and I dont feel like going through all of that...

  10. Uraijit

    Uraijit Guest

    Uh, lower WITH the buttstock installed IS the spendy way. If you buy a completed lower, you have to pay an excise tax (don't ask me, it's the stupid effing law). Buy the stripped lower for around $100, the LPK is about $60, and then your buttstock of choice.

    A DPMS complete lower sells for around $260-$280 with a regular 6-pos. stock, so with the $100-$120 left over for the stock, he could just about buy a Magpull CTR!

    It's almost never cost-effective to pay someone else to assemble it, and pay an additional excise tax. Plus the assembly is half the fun!
  11. Ridge

    Ridge Member

    Yep they say if you buy a whole upper and a stripped lower and everything else you can usually save $100 or build above has cost me around $1200...