Armscor M200: Good deal on Bud's Gun Shop

Discussion in 'General Firearms Discussion' started by HiPointArmorer, Jun 18, 2014.

  1. HiPointArmorer

    HiPointArmorer Member

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 23, 2017
  2. bscar

    bscar Supporting Member

    While Buds is one of my go-to sites for price comparisons, I despise how they list a price for something, then it turns out to be their "cash discount" price. They should list the more expensive "retail(credit card) price" then when you click on it, it should show the discounted price beside the normal price.

    That being said, I've offered $175, $185 and $190 so far and no takes on it; even $200 was too low for them($8 less than their cash price)

  3. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    If it's worth a damn $214 is a great deal. RIA 1911s are reviewing so well it would be worth the risk imo.
  4. SWO1

    SWO1 Member

    I've had mine for going on 2 years, along with 2 1911's (.38 Super and .45acp) RIAs are great pistols for the $$. The 200 is all steel with the best trigger out of the box.
  5. Its pretty nice. But if i buy a wheel gun I wont have an excuse to buy a S&W .357MAG next year.
  6. VinnieD

    VinnieD Member

    Used to have one. Not a half bad gun. The finish is kind of ugly, but the thing worked well enough. Eventually I sold it when the itch to upgrade to .357mag hit.
  7. I have been considering one for a long time. I keep hoping to find a police positive in 38 spl for a low price, but they have skyrocketed in the last year.

    The 200 is along the same lines as a PP, though it has a coil spring instead of leaf.
  8. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    Another cheap revolver that reviews well is the EAA Windecator. (pic) They can be had in 357. A member here bought one and liked it do much he bought another one. I've had one of their single actions for 25 years. I did shoot it out in about 5000 rounds, but the damage was done by about 500 shots when I used it to work up my big booming bear loads. For the money I'd do another one.
  9. I have seen you use this term more than once. Does it have a specific definition to revolvers?

    and are the more expensive options as likely to be shot out?

    Basically im asking.

    If i save up the dough for my dream S&W 686 plus and i shoot it a lot, will it make it to my grand kids? or am i likely to shoot it out and need to buy another one.

    IF that's the case then i don't want to spend so much for a nice smith.
  10. Any gun can be shot out, depending on how hot the loads are. Even Rugers have been known to be wore out after much abuse. Not saying anybodies loads are abuse, but all metal wears after a certain amount of shooting. Just hot loads will speed that up.
  11. SWO1

    SWO1 Member

    On revolvers usually the first thing to go is the "Forcing Cone". It sits in front of the chamber and quides the bullet into the barrel. The two main things that cause damage to it are:

    Over excessive Hot loads ( to many of them) which causes the cylinder to get out of time and not lining up properly with the barrel (forcing cone)

    Improper handloads that do not have the bullet crimped straight in the case, causing it to engage the forcing cone at an angle. Or ammo that is NOT crimped at all, revolver rounds need to be roll crimped or a real tight taper crimp or when a round is fired it will cause "bullet setback" in the remaining rounds in the cylinder.

    Pistol rounds are just the opposite of rifle in crimps. Auto pistols use a taper crimp. Auto rifles have roll crimp and bolt guns use taper crimps.

    Cranes can become lose and causing the cylinder to not line up properly also.

    Of course all these can happen with light target loads also. NO GUN is immune to them, a $200 or a $2000 one, any make.
  12. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    Revolvers are far more complex than an auto. The guts are often referred to as clock work because the manufacturing is nearly as hard and critical. All those moving parts have to be dead on for the gun to shoot well. Cheap revolvers were nearly always junk nib before cnc machining because the parts just didn't time up well. Also cheaper guns often use cheaper metals, soft, than wear faster that quality metals.

    All revolvers can be shot out of time and shot loose. When this happens the accuracy hours away and in extream cases become dangerous because the chambers don't align with the barrel. Heavy loads wear the guns out faster and quality guns last much longer. All these cheap revolvers will shoot out in under about 10000 rounds while a really good one will last much longer. The beauty of a 357 it's you can train and plink with low pressure 38s and use the 357s for sd. In this way the guns will last longer.

    A good Smith that is properly used and maintained will last most shootersa life time and beyond.

    There is a used revolver inspection tutorial sticky in general guns some where. It teaches how to determine if the gun is serviceable.
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2014
  13. Drinva

    Drinva meandmy45 Member

    The average guy is never going to "shoot out" a gun. Exceptions can be the throats in some rifles like a .243, from what I have read those can be accuracy reduced over time from hundreds of rounds.

    Lets face it..... 5000 rounds is 100 boxes of 50ea.....retail that X $15-$50 a box and you get $1,500.00-5,000.00 bucks!!! ammo alone.....numbers are scary eh?

    Do that same math with 20rounds per box (rifle and expensive pistol rounds) and you jump to $3,750.00-$12,500.00 :)

    Show me the money!!! :)

    Last edited: Jun 20, 2014
  14. Thanks Guys, I am still thinking ill get that smith when money allows. And probably plink with the cheapest lightest 38spl i can find. but get some good .357 for home defense and deer hunting.

    Realistically i cant imagine i would actually shoot it 10,000 times. but I am only 24. Lots of shooting years left, and i want it to get passed down to at least my sons lifetime as well
  15. Kiln

    Kiln Member

    The Armscor is a good buy. The M202 (discontinued) is one of the first guns I ever bought. It rode with me all over the place loaded with shot shells and killed more than a few snakes. It also pulled home defense duty for my wife before she became comfortable with automatics. I shot it quite a bit when I got it and I'd buy another if I came across one in decent shape or new.

    To be honest the worries about wearing it out should be put to rest by the lifetime warranty. If it breaks, send it back, I'm sure Armscor will treat you right. They didn't get to be an acceptable name in the 1911 world without having decent guns and repairing them under warranty.
  16. Yeah thats rough. Funny my most expensive pistol right now is a S&W .380

    I paid $400 for it. And have gone through 20 boxes at $17 a peace i'm close to $340.00 without tax. A good gun will easily last LONG past its price in ammo
  17. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    An example of cheap vs good. My 1972 made SW12-2 Is every bit as tight as my Taurus Tracker was band new, and the Smith was better timed! The Tracker has close to a thousand rounds and it had loosened up, not a lot normal break in, but now the old Smith is much tighter. I have no idea how much the Smith had been shot, but it does have expected signs of wear so it's no virgin.
  18. SWO1

    SWO1 Member

    Shooting .38 spcl. in a .357 cylinder and you get a Carbon Ring it it. Same thing shooting .22 shorts in a 22 long rifle chamber. Also the .38 being shorter than .357 you will get slightly more wear on the forcing cone. Good math says for the cost of 20 fifty round boxes of .38 you can set yourself up with reloading gear and do your own for half the cost and it will be a LOT BETTER AMMO. Produce light accurate practice (target) ammo or full blast heavy rounds for about the same money.

    If you shoot a lot of .38 in a .357 just clean the chambers A LOT, like after every session and pay attention to "SHAVING". You will notice flakes of lead or jacketing around the forcing cone. This most always produces POOR ACCURACY. Playing with the O.A.L. of my .38s I can reduce shaving but not the CARBON RING. Best bet is to clean often and avoid it altogether.

    In a good +p rated .38 I load my Carry rounds ALMOST up to .357 POWER. I have .357s but carry a .38 snub with reloads. The power is there and no worries with O.A.L. and having to do other than normal cleaning, EVERY TIME I SHOOT IT, 5 rounds or 100.
  19. Interesting. so the best round for over all life would really be a low powerd 357 load?

    No carbon ring or forcing cone wear, and low pressure on the metals
  20. SWO1

    SWO1 Member

    Well now we will get into the Age Old argument over what round is best .... :p

    I wont say one is better than the other. All I have to go on is Real experiences in Viet Nam carrying and using .45acp, .38spcl. and .357.

    I was issued a Colt 1911 .45acp. Twice in the first 30 days I had issues with function and stopping ability. I acquired a S&W model 27 .357 revolver. Shot mostly .38Spcl in what was called the Police Load, 158gr HP. Also some ..357. Never an issue with function or stopping power with the .38 or .357. And that's why I carry a revolver vice Auto, and in .38 spcl. to boot.

    The old Police Load is now called +P loads .... lol. In 1972 an across the board reduction in ammo loads was done by SAAMI and ammo manuf. If you get an older reloading manual for the 60's you will see a LOT HOTTER loads than now are published.