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Break in lubes?

8K views 90 replies 20 participants last post by  SWAGA 
#1 ·
I have one hi point c9 running on safariland clp with about 200 rounds, and another that had had 8 rounds with g96 oil. Anybody else using anything different like 3 in one oil? Back in my really broke teens (I am 54 now) I had to use 3 in one because that’s all I could afford, and it did ok. So does anybody use something like Walmart sae 30 weight or something more obscure to break in their c9?
 
#6 ·
I'm a WD40 guy for cleaning and mild lubricant. For day to day use. I use gun grease. It doesn't run or pool. It sits RIGHT where I put it. I let the Hi Point tell me where to lubricate it. I'll run it dry during the "break in period" and look for the wear marks where the pistol has worn off the finish. Those are the places where I make sure there's lubricant (grease).
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm a WD40 guy for cleaning and mild lubricant.

You silly, silly boy...WD40 isn't for cleaning anything but grease oils and water off of metal...nor is it really a lube, because it evaporates into a semi solid coating that is NOT frictionless. Sure it will clean some...so will hot water, so that's not saying much.

"WD40 is a solvent that leaves very little oil on the surface. This means that more dust and dirt will be attracted to the surface and eventually you'll have a nice layer of gunk on your gun. In cold weather this can be very bad and VERY big pain in the ass to clean off."


For day to day use. I use gun grease. It doesn't run or pool. It sits RIGHT where I put it. I let the Hi Point tell me where to lubricate it. I'll run it dry during the "break in period" and look for the wear marks where the pistol has worn off the finish. Those are the places where I make sure there's lubricant (grease).
Sorry about the bold....I tried to bold the word Solvent, and things went weird...
That's my thing. If you want it to "wear in"...it has to wear, and grease or oil prevents that. You don't shoot 2000 rounds without lubing...but a few mags will tell you where to apply it, and will get the break in job done right, so if you DO run dry at some point, the parts will be properly mated to continue sliding smoothly with a minimal bit of lube, or even none at all for a while.
 
#7 ·
I've only broken in my own weapons with regular old CLP or Frog Lube, but that's just because it's what I had around.

I will say, however, that I routinely used SAE 30 on the M2 .50-cal with great results, back in the day. If it'll work on a beast like that, it'll probably work just fine on your C9.
but that was mil spec SAE30 ;)
 
#17 · (Edited)
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#13 · (Edited)
This reminds me of oil threads on car and motorcycle forums. They can get you "banished" for all practical purposes. Just use a lubricant. Hi Points are also warrantied for life. A gun is just like a hammer. They're a tool. A bullet comes out of one end.
 
#15 ·
I have one hi point c9 running on safariland clp with about 200 rounds, and another that had had 8 rounds with g96 oil. Anybody else using anything different like 3 in one oil? Back in my really broke teens (I am 54 now) I had to use 3 in one because that's all I could afford, and it did ok. So does anybody use something like Walmart sae 30 weight or something more obscure to break in their c9?
3-in-One oil is fine. In fact, it's the original CLP; Clean, Lubricate, Protect. That's what the "3" means.

Most folks way over-pay for gun maintenance products.

Link to an eBook I wrote on the subject:
The Cheapskate's Guide to Gun Cleaning and Maintenance

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
#18 ·
3-in-One oil is fine. In fact, it's the original CLP; Clean, Lubricate, Protect. That's what the "3" means.
3-in-One oil advertisements from Arms and the Man, NRA publication (precursor to American Rifleman), between 1915 and 1917:

Rectangle Font Pattern Poster Parallel
Font Carnivore Poster Rectangle Paper
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Newspaper Jaw Font Rectangle Paper


Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
#21 ·
3 in 1 isn't that good for some uses either, according to Wiki:

"...the formulation tends to become somewhat gummy over time. While this property is helpful in the prevention of corrosion, it can cause issues in applications where higher viscosity is an issue, examples of which include bearings, shafts, or delicate machinery such as sewing machines."

Which is odd, since most people think of it as a great light weight oil for things like sewing machines. It's what I use, the trick is to know that you need to use it more than once per decade.

They say their "Motor Oil" for electric motors is 20 weight with some additives to prevent gumming up, I think the regular stuff is about 30 weight.
 
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#22 ·
3 in 1 isn't that good for some uses either, according to Wiki:
Yeah, wiki says lots of stuff, doesn't it. :)

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
#23 ·
Eons ago, when I was in the camera repair business (and cameras were mechanical), 3 in 1 oil was great for our business as it really gummed up the works. (Yes, Kirk, sperm oil was preferred and it was damned expensive stuff!!)
Automotive tire Product Eyelash Font Rectangle
 
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#24 · (Edited)
(Yes, Kirk, sperm oil was preferred and it was damned expensive stuff!!)
It's practically impossible to get. Jojoba oil is supposedly very similar and a ton less expensive. Still a little pricey but available and a lot less expensive than branded gun oils.

https://www.amazon.com/Jojoba-Cold-Pressed-100-Natural/dp/B00G3LJVJG/ref=sr_1_10?gclid=Cj0KCQjwzunmBRDsARIsAGrt4msk4H7mJwi3gv928R-F8s75_LikE1w1WNHupJRHy6O1hnUTga_xCnoaAsYsEALw_wcB&hvadid=241918236442&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9015764&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9414319990834623348&hvtargid=kwd-14351681&hydadcr=24665_10401007&keywords=jojoba+oil&qid=1557861003&s=gateway&sr=8-10&th=1

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
#40 ·
I have pretty much decided that the next time I need gun oil, I am just going to buy a quart of 0w16 motor oil. One quart of oil will probably last me for 20 years or more as long as I don't spill it.
I'd work...the HP will take it. I dunno about "better"/more expensive pistols or rifles. BUT that's why we are all here! Because the HP is a great weapon system!
 
#33 ·
Glock uses a copper infused grease from the factory.

 
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#34 ·
(High pitched whine)

I bought a quart of engine oil the other day 5W30 for $2.95
I think that's enough to break in a whole Iraqi regiment of AK's.
I may succumb and use full synthetic in my Beretta though, being such a fine piece of European machinery.
 
#45 ·
To tell the truth...that same thing applies to many of my HPs as well.

I only lube them if they stick, which is when I clean them. Hasn’t happened too often.
 
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#64 ·
To tell the truth...that same thing applies to many of my HPs as well.

I only lube them if they stick, which is when I clean them. Hasn't happened too often.
I didn't oil my HP before I shot a few hundred rounds through it, then only did it in hopes of smoothing the trigger out a little and just felt the need to give it a little TLC:)
some times too much oil is a problem as well...
Here is a Glock Trigger Housing that has a sludge and oil mix causing it to jam

 
#59 ·
I just added a bit of Walmart grease to the ejection port area inside the slide not because the clp wasn't working, but because the oil was not visible. The clp seems to take on a greaselike consistency with time, like around the barrel. So I know that this was well lubed. Will keep everyone posted about the grease.
 
#57 ·
I work at a gun store, so I can try (and did !) all the gun lubes on the market, from the ones of $4.00, to the $18.99 for the 4fl oz. and so far NONE of them have worked better on my pistols, revolvers, ARs, rifles and SBRs than my 75% Mobil 1 and 25% Synthetic ATF.

You can believe what you want, but ask yourself a question, "Why is it that Lucas, Castrol, Royal Purple, and Amsoil are making gun oils now" ??
Also, all the synthetic oils manufactured in USA get their synthetic base stock from Exxon-Mobil, they can change the color, add thickeners, and a "Funky Cold Madina", but basically they're all the same, just the hype changes depending on the advertisement.
 
#60 ·
I just use a little bit of the Remington gun oil. It's cheap, nothing tricky about it and it works without being sticky or thick enough to attract and keep the crap in guns that tends to build up over time. When it needs cleaning, I clean it, otherwise just leave it alone. I already know I'll get criticism for using that oil.

Hi Point doesn't specify anything and they have a lifetime warranty and they more than honor it well. My Mini-14 has had an insane amount of ammo through it since 1980 when I bought it new and I don't expect it to wear out in my lifetime. It gets a tiny amount of lubrication and still shoots a "dangerously" tight group. I have other things to be concerned with. Just shoot and buy more ammo!
 
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#61 ·
Good point RCS. I had only one problem with Rem Oil. I was concealed carrying a Keltec P32 on vacation. No problem there.....but after I got back from vacation, I took the Keltec to the range. I had a misfire/squib--the round went pfft--and the projectile stuck in the middle of the barrel. It was easily cleared by pushing it out with a #2 lead pencil. The Rem Oil had seeped in around the primer and made it inert. So I crossed Rem Oil off my list.....but only because of its thinner nature that made primers inert. Otherwise, it was a good lubricant and excellent preservative.
 
#67 ·
I think we can stop now ...this one is broken in:



A 10mm no less

 
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