Cast in a Hi-Point (JCP)

Discussion in 'Hi-Point Pistols' started by JLP920, Oct 27, 2015.

  1. JLP920

    JLP920 Member

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    Anyone else shoot cast through their Hi-Point?
    I'm having some feeding issues with the Lee 401-175tc in my JCP, love to hear others experience. trying to rule things out as I chase down the problem.
     
  2. Rerun

    Rerun Supporting Member

    8,339
    2,800
    Have You tried swaging the bullets before You reload them?

    eldar
     

  3. hombre243

    hombre243 hombre Member

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    Iowa
    I always use Lee 4 die sets for the 45 and 9mm. I run all cast bullets through a sizing die and test for the best seating depth by cycling by hand. If you can get the ammo to cycle reliably by manually shucking a few through from the magazine you will have a reliable round. Remember the top ring toward the nose of the bullet is best set down to the rim or just inside then crimp is rolled over that ring.

    Next I always run the round through a Lee Factory resize die...the one the irons out all the wrinkled that the bullet may make on the top end of the case, as well as near the rim. That smooths out the entire case after it is loaded.

    After loading, make sure you wipe down the bullet and case and wipe off all the goo left from the bullet lube that gets squeegeed off the bullet as it is seated, as well as the lube that you get on your finger tips when handling the bullets.

    I have found the lube can cause the bullet to hang up at the feed ramp, and after awhile the stuff will build up in the chamber as well as around the feed ramp and maybe in the magazine.

    I started using XLOX White Label...the stuff in the white jug. I like it better than Liquid ALOX from Lee. It seems to dry thinner and harder and gives a good coat and good bore protection.

    I looked at the mold you use and see that it is not a tumble lube type. The type with no top ring has the ridge where the nose has tapered down...rather out...to the larger diameter of the bullet body. Seating depth on the bullets I load seems to be best when that ridge is set down just inside the case mouth, almost exactly even with the mouth. That way the brass can roll over the lead and protect the edge from rubbing on the ramp.

    (But, you have to make sure your bullet is not seated too deep, per specs. I have had no trouble with hi pressure and the ammo cycles properly. If there is lead dragging across the steel of the feed ramp, could be your feed ramp needs a little polishing with some very fine grit sandpaper.)

    http://www.lsstuff.com/lsstuff-stuff
     
  4. rickm

    rickm Member

    It might help more if we knew just what the bullet is doing when you have the feeding problems, like nose up or down, it might not be the bullet that is causing the problem but the mag itself. Just need alittle more info.
     
  5. JLP920

    JLP920 Member

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    Thanks for your help thus far, I very much appreciate it.

    Yes, the problem has been nosedives–the round doesn't pop up fully in the mag, and gets slammed nose-first into the edge of the feed ramp.
    I opened the mag lips a bit more today before shooting, and the problem was, if anything, worse. I just opened the front fingers even more, as well as the back hold-down curves (whatever they're called).

    Here is a picture of the ammo I'm shooting. When it jams like this, it creases a groove right in the face (meplat) of the bullet, about 1/16" from the bottom. I have etched a line approximately where it occurs. I have also included a photo of the mag with a round "nosedived".

    I have been leaving the mag full to work in the spring, and my feed ramp is well-polished. Hombre, I will try seating and sizing as you suggest. I hesitate to start grinding away at the feed ramp lip. I think that about covers it. Between the forum and Hi-Point customer service, we'll get it straightened out! Thanks again for your help.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  6. rickm

    rickm Member

    OK after looking at the pic i can tell you what i did to stop mine but now if it works for you who knows, but the black plastic tab that sticks out of your mag on the front side of the bullet i took a sharp knife and cut that flush with the mag.
    And as mention seat the bullet just a tad deeper into the case.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  7. hombre243

    hombre243 hombre Member

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    Iowa
    Interesting...thanks. I had to look at my 45 mag. It does not have the plastic tab you speak of. That tab may be exactly the problem. Because the bullet is a flat point and not round the bullet can't slide over the tab...a round nose copper bullet can.

    One thing I do, and do not know whether the OP does this or not, is to tap on the back of the magazine when loaded so all the cartridges settle to the back of the mag. This raises the tip of the bullet (usually) and may help the cartridge clear the tab...who knows? It could be a cheap fix.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  8. hombre243

    hombre243 hombre Member

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    Iowa
    Check out the next couple posts too...but now that I read about the plastic tab I see this has to be a problem with your bullet type. Look at your picture and see where the tab hits the bullet, then check out a round nose, plated, jacketed or lead...bullet. Because the round nose has no shoulder or edge, only a radius that runs up to the nose, that plastic tab does not interfere.

    Maybe you won't have to cut it all the way off. I would use a round file and shave a little at a time off until the bullet clears. (For obvious reasons I never like taking it all off at once...(did I say thaaaat?) Your bullet seating depth may work fine after adjusting that tab.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  9. rickm

    rickm Member

    The plastic tab is to take up the difference between the 40 and 45 since they use the same mag you can totally remove the tab and use it in a 45, you might have a few problems with it since they do use a different follower in the 45 but as a target mag it works fine that way.
     
  10. JLP920

    JLP920 Member

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    Thanks guys. Yeah, I had definitely looked hard at that tab but shied away from altering it. I will have a go at it and report back.
    -920

    Range report: looks promising. Full mag shot fine today with tab cut down. have to address another issue before I can shoot again (bullets key-holing, this road I've been down before). I think we got it!
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2015
  11. jniedbalski

    jniedbalski Member

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    I load this same lee bullet just fine after I cut the tab in the mag. It shoots great in my carbine and pistole. Your overall length also looks a little short. I also don't size me Bullets and shoot as cast.
     
  12. jniedbalski

    jniedbalski Member

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    I use LLA or white label lube which I like a little better. Your overall length looks a little short. The ring on the bullet past the tc cone sticks out on mine. It is not even with or slightly below the case mouth.i do use the factory crimp die some times but found that leaving the bullet un sized shot better. The lee factory sizing die can squeeze the bullet down in size. If your geting key holing the bullet is under size or your getting gas cutting past the bullet. I have used hodgen HS6 in the carbine with good and great results. I first started using lee load data on the light side but found out groups where just ok . I increased powder toward max and groups Went to one hole groups at 25 yards using hs6
     
  13. Hombre243, not to be nit-picking, (God knows I hate it when others do it to me--), but any semi-auto pistol case uses the case neck as the headspacer, and you do not roll crimp those, they have to be taper crimped. Roll crimping is only used on revolver cases, where headspacing is controlled by the rim.
    I also use Lee molds, sizing dies, reloading dies, and crimping dies, and have had very good service from all of them.
    Cheers,
    Fred (Honcho)