Clean Freak

Discussion in 'General Firearms Discussion' started by FreeinVT, Aug 8, 2015.

  1. Had misfeeds on all 3 of my active weapons today. My instructor says they needed lubrication, and after oiling the mechanisms, they fed fine. As stated in another thread elsewhere: I clean my weapons until the materials are extracted without any black on them. I may be over-cleaning them, especially where it counts. In the Army, we used to apply thin coats of lubricant to parts and we certainly didn't have CLP that I can recall for general bore cleaning, though I use that now.

    I'm also a digital electronics technician from back in the early 1990s, and when working on VCRs, I used Marvel Mystery Oil to lubricate sensitive moving parts inside the main mechanism. So I am requesting input from anyone who will give it, especially active duty and veterans: what do you recommend for a general lubricant? Or can I ask for product names here? Would the Mystery Oil be suitable for a weapon?
     
  2. Think1st

    Think1st Supporting Member

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    First of all, there is no such thing as over-cleaning a weapon. I also clean mine until no fouling appears on an oiled piece of cloth. That is what is required for turn-in, and that is what is required before a weapon goes back into my own cabinet.

    Secondly, I like to use Frog Lube on my own weapons. I've not heard of the Mystery Oil that you are using, so I can't comment on it. Is it a penetrating oil? If so, you probably won't want to use it. The viscosity will be too low to maintain persistent coverage of your parts or to help attenuate the effects of heat.

    Basically, Break Free, RemOil, Frog Lube and other common lubes all work just fine.
     

  3. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Eds Red works good Super lube, ATF, Syn motor oil, Its endless what you can use. I make Ed's red one for cleaning and one for oiling parts. One batch is 2 gallons so it lasts for ever. I also use what ever the gun companies gave me for going to their Armor trainings. I like free Sh!t.
     
  4. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

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    So far I have Hoppe's #9 and CLP. I have used a Teflon dry lube as a base layer,
    (think SuperLube, like m00nz uses) it sprays on and the carrier dries off completely,
    leaving a very thin light gray coating (Teflon). Then I apply the
    Hoppe's or CLP. I have been using the CLP as the cleaner, and the Hoppe's
    as the lube... due to reading the labels, it seems more appropriate, but I
    think both are for either cleaning OR lubing.
    The Teflon as a barrel treatment will add extra velocity, due to decreased
    barrel friction :D EBR Ammunition had an episode where one of their buyers
    complained that their "subsonic" ammo was clearly going Supersonic, and
    EBR asked the user if he had Teflon-treated his barrel. The answer was
    "Yes, but it wouldn't make THAT Much Difference, would it?" and apparently,
    IT DOES Make That Much Difference! I'm guessing around 100 FPS give or take...
     
  5. ArmyScout

    ArmyScout Supporting Member

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    There are a lot of good gun oils on the market. Hoppe's #9 is popular, and what I am using now (just don't use it on nickel plating). Back in the day I used fishing reel oil to lube my fishing gear and "firearms". Before that, I used sewing machine oil on many firarms. The important thing is to lube after cleaning. A lot of these new super gun oils coming out on the market are just more expensive than the others, not necessarily any better.
     
  6. ajole

    ajole Supporting Member

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    There's really no "bad" stuff out there, only stupid people using things for the wrong purposes.

    Like WD-40...it's not really a lube.

    Rem-oil...it's not a solvent, really, except...all oils are solvents.

    Marvels Mystery Oil...not a mystery thanks to Wiki...assuming it's true. ;)

    The product is composed of 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent stoddard solvent, and 1 percent lard.

    And yes, it's a perfectly acceptable oil for most parts of a gun.

    Anyway...use oil on parts that turn, grease on parts that slide.
    I smear a touch of grease on the bottom of my AR bolt, wipe oil onto the bolt parts as I assemble it, and I can run basically dry beyond that. I might squirt some oil through the ejection port eventually if it's a lot of shooting.
    Of course, the other bits and pieces are all lightly lubed, inside the lower. Mostly oil.

    Semi guns....grease on the slide rails, oil everywhere else.

    Grease can last longer, but unless you clean it out well, it will collect gunk. Over time this will get tougher to clean, but will still lubricate....mostly...until it really gunks up. Oil does it too, but dries up quicker, and seems to get really solid. Which is what you see on those 50 year old .22 rifles that I buy.:(
     
  7. SWAGA

    SWAGA No longer broke... Lifetime Supporter

    Marvel Mystery Oil is very thin so I would only use it on light wear parts.
    I use ATF and brake cleaner for the barrels and lithium grease for slides and bolts and such.
     
  8. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

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    Lithium (white) grease tends to dry up and cake.
    I had a 'competitor' use it on valve stems when I did cylinder heads, and that
    goofball had several valves seize or even drop, where I had a grand total of
    ZERO Failures. He was saving pennies and costing himself HUNDRED$...
    I just did it right the First Time! :D

    If you have a regular schedule of cleaning, Lithium Grease might be fine in a gun...
    I would not use it in a Hi Point where the cleaning schedule is every 1000+ rounds, however.
     
  9. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Marvel Mystery Oil will work fine. For your purpose, it's basically a light oil, not too different from sewing machine oil. I know some guys who use it.

    ATF, Eds Red, any oil, basically, will work.

    Grease is easy too. Automotive or axle grease from Wal-Mart are fine. Heck, in a pinch you could even use Crisco or even Bacon Grease (but you risk it going rancid). Lanolin is an ingredient in Eds Red.

    It doesn't have to be hard and it doesn't have to be expensive.

    Peace favor your sword (mobile)
     
  10. cicpup

    cicpup Resident PITA Supporting Member

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    Not a mystery? Well then tell me Mr. Smartypants, why does it smell exactly like bubblegum? Also, how is it able to unstick a seized engine?

    Thin enough that if constantly used as an engine additive your seals will eventually leak.
     
  11. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

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    I have at least 2 tubes of Slick50 grease :D Teflon Additive! WOOOT! :cool:
     
  12. ajole

    ajole Supporting Member

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    No idea on the bubble gum....maybe bubble gum has the same Stoddard solvents in it?

    That thinness allows it to penetrate some, and mineral spirits are....solvents.

    So, you are basically breaking down the sludge...and the oil, and the seals. Not a good thing for long term use, obviously.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2015
  13. Kiln

    Kiln Member

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    My personal favorites are Hoppes Elite Gun Oil and RIG gun grease. There are lots of excellent firearm lubricants out there though. As Ajole said, if it turns oil it, if it slides grease it. Kirk's advice on inexpensive lubricants is solid too.

    Cleaning carefully is a must for keeping your gun running right so I think you're cleaning it just the right amount. Applying oil in kep places will help keep it running smoothly. Guns are mechanical devices and as such, they need to be oiled in order to keep functioning properly and prevent wear. Running a gun "dry" is something I personally never do.
     
  14. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    I use anything I can find, right now i have 3 or 4 cleaning kits. For cleaning i use something like gun blaster or remington cleaning spray. The CLP or the hoppes cleaning stuff is just not potent enough and is too oily. I clean really well with a good solvent spray, then I come back with any of the oils i have. remington, hoppes, froglube, clp....they all work. main thing is if you're using the rem spray or the gun blaster stuff, don't let it sit to long it dries pretty much instantly.

    does brake cleaner work well on guns with no ill effects? it's certainly cheaper and if it's as good as the rem spray or the gun blaster i'll make a switch.
     
  15. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    You can use Break cleaner but it has to be non chloride.
     
  16. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    brake cleaner is at least a couple bucks cheaper than the name brand remington crap, i'll be using that from now on. it probably works better too, i've seen how fast it cleans carbs and brakes.....
     
  17. USMC_VET

    USMC_VET Supporting Member

    So far the best cleaner I've found was back in 1982-84 while stationed at MCAS El Toro and it was Aircraft cleaning solvent or TCE . That solvent was strong enough to completely remove any and all carbon from a M16A1

    The only problem is the long term health issues from using this very nasty solvent . And that the site of the old air station is now a massive superfund clean up site with ground water contamination . Plus the VA won't recognize the health issues associated with it
     
  18. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    And half of your DNA code. ;)

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  19. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Yes, with two caveats. First, use non-Chlorinated (like moona says) because the chlorinated stuff can enbrittle the steel. Second, it strips off nearly everything, including protective oils. You'll have to practically dip the part in oil or protectant after to make sure that oil gets back into every little nook and crevice.
     
  20. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    I barely use brake or gun scrubber any more. Use eds red CLP and let set for a bit. Works well and softens the carbon build up.