DIY: Camouflaging Your Gun

Discussion in 'Gunsmith shop' started by lklawson, Sep 2, 2015.

  1. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Tutorial from The American Rifleman on how to do a home cammo job on your rifle. Unfortunately, it looks like the photo gallery linked from the original story is gone.

    DIY: Camouflaging Your Gun
    by Cameron Hopkins - Wednesday, August 25, 2010

    To paraphrase Mick Jagger, “I see a black gun and I want to paint it green.”

    Camouflage is essential for many, from turkey hunters in Georgia to Special Forces in Kandahar, and while we all recognize the benefits of wearing Mossy Oak, RealTree or MultiCam, we blithely traipse into the woods with a shiny black pole.

    Painting your rifle is an easy DIY project that makes for a great off-season activity. Unlike glass-bedding your rifle or adjusting its trigger, spray painting a gun is virtually impossible to foul up for the simple reason that there’s no such thing as a right or wrong way to camo a gun. As long as you don’t use fluorescent pink, you really can’t mess it up.

    The tools needed are easy and cheap: a roll of blue tape, found in the paint section of Home Depot; a leafy branch for an overlay and two or three cans of camouflage spray paint. Total cost: less than 10 bucks.

    Gun Painting “Rules”
    The first rule is that there aren’t any rules. There are, however, some guidelines. The main thing to keep in mind is that the purpose of camouflage is to break up an object’s shape. Blending into the surroundings is a matter of color primarily, but breaking up shape is a matter of highlights and shadows, or light and dark coloration.

    Your color choices are limited by what’s available in spray paint. The basic colors are dark brown, tan, dark green, light green, black and a sort of “primer red” color. Spray paint comes in special “camouflage” formulation, meaning a flat-matte sheen. I’ve discovered another property of designated “camouflage” spray paint that’s extremely helpful—it’s very fast drying. The can says 20 minutes, but I’ve re-sprayed with another color in as little as five minutes.

    A second guideline is to apply one or, at most, two base colors and then to accent the pattern with an overlay. An overlay is an object—a leaf, net or branch—that you hold over your rifle, perhaps 6 to 10 inches away, and spray “over” the blocking item to create an overlay effect.

    Basically, the overlay is a reverse pattern—the paint goes where the overlay isn’t. If it’s a leafy branch, the paint goes in all the gaps and holes around the leaves so that the “leaf” shape is not what you’re spraying, but the color of the base coat underneath.

    Another guiding principle that took me several guns to learn is “less is more.” Go gently into that painted night. You can achieve excellent results with only two colors. If your rifle starts out in a matte black finish, you can use the black as a third color. I’ve used three colors, but the only time I tried four, it was “too much of a good thing.”

    Even with a mistake like over-doing the camouflage, you can fix it all by starting over. This is the really great thing about spray paint—if you don’t like it, wait until it dries and re-do it.

    Being able to fix mistakes comes into its own after a hunt. I’ve found that spray paint doesn’t really stick too well to scopes. For some reason, the anodized finish on aluminum scope tubes is too “slick” for paint to stick well. No matter. After a hunt, simply touch up any scratches. Pssssss with the can… done.

    How To Paint
    Perhaps this should be obvious or maybe I should’ve mentioned it earlier, but the only suitable candidates for a camo paint job are synthetically stocked rifles. I would never deface a nice piece of walnut with spray paint, but there’s no aesthetic beauty inherent in fiberglass or plastic, so I have no remorse on these modern wonders.

    Like any painting job, the first thing is prep. Make sure the gun is clean and free of oil. Then, you need a roll of “blue tape” (masking tape made for painters that lifts off easily) available at any hardware store in the paint section. Tear off pieces of blue tape to cover whatever you don’t want painted. Remove the bolt. Tape it off. Your option whether to tape the bolt handle or not—I’ve done it both ways. Cover the ejection port where the bolt sits with blue tape. I often have to use several small pieces of tape to cover the “hole,” paying special attention to the chamber.

    A word of warning here. To cover the chamber, you’ll need a small piece of tape which sort of half-blocks and half-covers the chamber opening. I painted an 8 mm Rem. Mag. one time, removed all the tape, repaired to the range and proceeded to sight-in. I came to a grinding halt when I couldn’t close the bolt. What the heck…

    It wasn’t until I got home that I found a small piece of tape, the piece that was covering the chamber, jammed up inside the chamber and preventing a cartridge from fully seating. The lesson here is to carefully verify that all the masking tape is out of the action—no barrel or chamber obstructions—before going to the range.

    Obviously you need to mask off the lenses of your scope. I simply cover the them with an over-size piece (or pieces) of tape. No need to trim them to size—paint around the tape.

    I also cover the selector ring on the scope if it’s a variable power which it invariably is (pun intended). Sometimes I tape off the trigger and sometimes I don’t. As long as you don’t spray up into the trigger mechanism (fire control group, for you technophiles) you’re okay.

    I don’t bother to tape off the muzzle because if you do happen to over-spray down the bore, the first bullet through will remove it. I also don’t tape off the recoil pad, but I don’t spray the rifle from the end to keep from getting paint on a non-visible part. It’s just going to rub off on my shirt anyway.

    With your rifle masked off, place it on a cradle-like support such as a set of saw horses or (my favorite) over an open trash can. The idea is to hold the rifle in such a way that you can easily turn it over.

    Remembering the maxim, “Less is more,” apply a nice even base coat of whatever color predominates in the region you plan to hunt. Brown and green are the usual base colors. I don’t bother with two coats because I’m going to add more paint anyway with the next step.

    Here’s the creative part—the overlay. Use a leafy branch, a net, a torn-up T-shirt, anything with “holes.” Spray through the overlay in primarily diagonal directions to break up the predominantly linear shape of a rifle. Use a contrasting color from your base. My favorites are tan-over-green and dark brown-over-tan.

    Accenting the camo comes next. Once again bearing in mind the “Less is more” rule, examine your rifle and see if there are any gaps.” Depending on the scheme and your whim at the moment, either spray again with the base or drape your overlay and hit it again with your second color.

    A third color is to be approached carefully. It’s really easy to over-do the camo if you get wild and crazy with a third color. I like to use the “primer red” color as a third color, but very, very judiciously.

    If you’re finished and your rifle looks like a bad Picasso dream, no worries. Let it dry and start over! There’s no such thing as a “wrong” camo job unless you apply snow camo to a rifle destined for the tropics.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  2. Grant

    Grant Member

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    Or you can hydro dip it. It is not that difficult if you break the gun down.
     

  3. Rule #1: Prep is 90% of a good paint job.
     
  4. talon

    talon the banned wagon

    Skull stickers.
     
  5. Outlaw

    Outlaw Supporting Member

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    Yep! and the other 90% is being able to paint :rolleyes:
     
  6. cicpup

    cicpup Resident PITA Supporting Member

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    Your math skills Rock.
     
  7. cicpup

    cicpup Resident PITA Supporting Member

    15,737
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    Bit of a difference in cost I would think.
     
  8. Grant

    Grant Member

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    The kit I bought cost $69 and could easily do a few guns.
     
  9. cicpup

    cicpup Resident PITA Supporting Member

    15,737
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    Still stands that 3 cans of spray paint and a leafy branch is under $10 and will probably do several more guns than your kit.
     
  10. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^yup, i just spent $4 on a new desert tan paint job for my 995.
     
  11. ArmyScout

    ArmyScout Supporting Member

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    I camoed a shotgun once when I was doing a lot of Duck hunting. Knocked a big ole Goose out of the sky and it landed a fair parcel away. So I laid my shotgun against a tree and took off to get the Goose. Came back to the area where I shot it, but never could find the shotgun. Did "too good" a cammo job on the shotgun, I guess. TIC :D
     
  12. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    That's hysterical. :)

    Pretty expensive goose, all said and done.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  13. ajole

    ajole Supporting Member

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    The ultimate urban camo...they'll never see it coming...

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Rerun

    Rerun Member

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    Good camo is very important!

    I remember back in the last Century, when I played my first game of Paintball Wars like it was yesterday...

    It cost me $10.00 per round and I received a single shot, pump up .68 caliber paint ball pistol and a tube of bright red paintballs (10 shots, I believe).

    It was like capture the flag with guns.

    There were 21 of us to be divided into 2 teams - Everybody was wearing some form of camo, even me (home made white Oxford long sleeve spray painted with a base colour of brown, two shades of green and black in a tiger striped pattern.

    One fellow stood out from the rest as he was wearing a white T-shirt, grey chino slacks and docksiders, no socks. I breathed a sigh of relief as he was chosen to be on the other side.

    We were sent into the wooded playing field, given 5 minutes to prep and on the sound of the horn (one blast) started the war.

    I chose to sit things out. Shouts of "There he is!" and "Get him! Get him!" and "Missed me!" and "ARRGGHHH!" or "IIIEEEEE!!" sounded all around me until the 5 minute warning (two blasts) blew.

    I cautiously looked all around me and then started my advance toward the opposing team's flag. Off in the distance I spotted fellow team mates moving (at least I thought they were team mates). I was making pretty good progress until I heard a stilted whisper behind me - "seven..." and the unmistakable sound of a paintball gun firing!

    I hurled myself to the ground getting hit right between my shoulder blades before I started to move and bounced off the torn forest floor.

    I looked around and saw the guy in the T-shirt and chino slacks, now decked out in a ghillie suit, smile at me, reload and start pumping up His paintball gun before he ghosted off into the forest...

    Turns out this guy had participated with the LRRP's in 'Nam. And finally accounted for eight 'kills' from my side!

    I had walked right past him! And didn't see him until he 'd allowed me too.

    I took some time and worked up my own (burlap) ghillie suit after that.

    Fun times, fun times...

    eldar
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2015
  15. Browning 9 Guy

    Browning 9 Guy Premium Supporter Member

    Great instructions and insight.
     
  16. Browning 9 Guy

    Browning 9 Guy Premium Supporter Member

    My sons have asked to snow cammo our Hi Points. They'd be beautiful until the first smudgy grundgy fingerprints appeared.
     
  17. ajole

    ajole Supporting Member

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    Nah...fingerprints make good camo better.;)
     
  18. thundercroozer

    thundercroozer Supporting Member

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    Yellow fingerprints on snow camo,, for the real authentic look