Duracoat vs. Black High temp paint vs. Powdercoating.

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by hitmanharleyk, Jan 13, 2008.

  1. I know there is a number of threads already addressing this, but I'm gonna work my 995 over tomorrow (before I even fire it) and I'd like to know which works good.

    Dura-coat has to be ordered and you have to use a air-brush to apply. I've read of it cracking during the bake on process.

    Black High temp paint can be picked up anywhere for $6-$7 per can. Will it stay on ?

    Powder-coating, I don't know anyone who does this in my area.

    Over the Counter Gun Blue, I've read mixed results on this type product.


    I'd rather do the HT paint or the Gun Blue because it is the easiest and quickest, but I also want it to look good. Tell me your opinions on each process.
     
  2. Langford

    Langford Guest

    Im fairly impressed by the brownells products, a few of the members here recommended it and I think thats the route Im going to go. I just watched all of their instructional videos, and I think the aluma-hyde II in matte black will be the best for me.

    You dont have to bake that to get it to cure, it just takes up to two weeks to fully cure. From what I gathered by watching their videos, you have to have the piece media blasted before you can do the bake on finishes. With the aluma-hyde, you just have to clean it really well and then put a few light coats of it on, then lit it sit and dry.
     

  3. You've apparently read the threads that you mention, but I'll point out two things about blueing. First, the receiver shroud is steel but the receiver is not, so you won't be able to blue the side of the receiver that shows through the ejection port. If a matching finish is a requirement, this will be a deal breaker.

    Secondly, others have commented on the quality of various cold blues, but, for one:

    http://hipointfirearmsforums.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=2193&highlight=permablue

    Personal grain-of-salt opinion: somehow blue seems too hoity-toity for a HP :lol:
     
  4. I'm leaning towards going with the High Temp paint, I already have some very good stuff at the house !!!
     
  5. stremph

    stremph Guest

    You shouldn't have to bake DuraCoat. Just give it time to cure on its own.

    I've heard good things about Brownell's Alumahyde as well.
     
  6. If it is the metal receiver cover that you want to paint, consider Rustoleum Epoxy spray paint... sometimes referred to as Appliance paint. It leaves a very smooth and durable finish. I use the stuff on small metal motorcycle parts with excellent results.

    Powdercoating will be the most durable finish, however it is a much thicker coating than spray paint. It shouldn't be a problem on a H-P, but on far more precision-fit weapons it might cause some clearance issues.

    As for the plastic stock: Krylon's Fusion paints are formulated for plastic. Here again, I've used it on motorcycle and car parts with excellent results.
     
  7. I have a can of Rustoleum High temp that I might use, I really want to go with a Matte Black look to match my ATI Stock, Leapers red dot sight, Leapers BiPod and the Moerse Lekker barrel shroud.

    Black on Black in beautiful :lol:
     
  8. I painted mine with normal ultra flat black.... Works great. The only prob is where the charging handle is. It just didnt hold up lol.
     
  9. I used hi temp auto paint on a couple of things, put them in the oven at 180 for a little bit, and they have held up very well so far. Finish is durable and looks good.

    Wife was not happy with the smell that was in the oven for a bit though.
     
  10. How about fanning a heat gun over the finish afterwards ?
     
  11. One way to find out, I just made a little rack and baked it, but a heat gun may work fine too.
     
  12. I'll be in a motel room tomorrow night working on the 995, should I do anything to the gun prior to painting it. It will be brand new, never fired.
     

  13. Man, that's just weird. I've heard of a lot of things done in a motel room, but never that!

    :lol: :lol:
     
  14. I'll do the painting outside the motel and then drying inside the bathroom more than likely. After thinking about it I might pre-heat the pc. prior to spraying it, this should help it stick !

    It all kind of depends on what the finish looks like when I pick the 995 up, might be best to just leave it alone. I've seen a few 4095's that were brand new and look rough though.
     
  15. z71silverado98

    z71silverado98 Member

    739
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    i can attest to the durability of hi-temp paint. i painted my P11 over 3wks ago. Its been carried everyday and in contact w/ keys,knifes constantly as well as tossed on my counter and dropped a few times. there's 2 pin sized chips where it was tossed on a concrete shooting stand by another, other than that its still as good as the day i painted it.
     
  16. Did you paint over the blue or did you do some prep work ?
     
  17. yeah you don't have to bake duracoat, its just something good to do if you're impatient. I baked mine at low temp for a short period of time just to accelerate the process. It does have some visual blemishes now but nothing major.

    The rattle can stuff from bownells is said to work fairly well but I have heard mixed reviews.
     
  18. At a minimum I would at least use something (alcohol perhaps ?) to wipe any oil from your hands, or other sources off of it and get it very clean, other than that you might consider a very fine sandpaper, then clean then paint.

    Let us know how it turns out
     
  19. I like the epoxy paint.that stuff after curing has a good finish.
     
  20. I went with the HT Paint and warmed it up with the heat gun.
    Time will tell us how durable it is !

    #1. Cleaned parts with Birchwood Casey Cleaner-Degreaser.

    #2. Heated parts for a few minutes with the heat gun.

    #3. Put on first coat of Grill High Temp Paint.

    #4. Let dry for 15 minutes.

    #5. Sprayed on Second (Slightly heavier coat) on Paint.

    #6. Let dry for 15 more minutes.

    #7. Heat parts until warm with heat gun being sure to fan it and to keep moving for about 10 minutes.

    #8 Installed into the new stock.


    I did all of the above while I was working on getting the barrel assembly out of the old stock and into the new one.