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12151 Views 39 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  Pistol Pete
HI All Just a note to say that for many years I clean all my semi-autos in the same way with out any problems , After heavy fire use meaning several boxes of ammo,All I do is use WD40 to soak all parts of the pistol than I take the air gun to it and blow off all the extra wd40 ,you can see all the black just dip off the gun in places one could never reach, light coat of oil & your good to go again .STUMPIE
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From my experience, I personally try to stay away from WD40 since it is a penetrant and will eat away at certain polymers and plastics. Considering that major components of the grip and parts of the slide are plastic (Not to mention parts of the Magazine in the .40 HP), I'm very wary of using it on my HP's or any firearm. Now, if I'm completely stripping a millsurp arm like an M44 or the like, then WD40 might just be what the doctor ordered for cosmoline removal.

Any other input?
WD-40 could turn into a nice fireball in the wrong hands!!! Not saying it is a bad idea but I could think of better....

One wierd thing I found that works great that sounds silly is a steam pressure washer... You can get a M249 or M240B clean in like 20min after fireing thousands of rounds. Hit it with compressed air, and Rem Oil spray and your good.

For me I will stay away from the WD-40.
I too no longer use WD40
I use Break Free CLP... it's milspec



BREAK-FREE CLP is not a miracle product. It contains no
magic ingredients. It was not conjured up in a secret cave by
long-forgotten tribesmen then discovered suddenly by smart
marketers and offered on late night TV.

But how BREAK-FREE CLP performs on firearms is nothing short
of miraculous, sometimes described as magical and is truly
mysterious to those who try to copy the formula.

In truth, BREAK-FREE CLP is a scientifically formulated
synthetic liquid specifically designed to do three important
tasks simultaneously.

1. Clean metal
2. Lubricate metal
3. Protect metal

BREAK-FREE CLP is made from a unique combination of
synthetic oils and other ingredients blended through a
proprietary series of processes developed by BREAK-FREE's
Technical Director Don Yoder. Both the ingredients and the
processes used to combine them are closely held secrets, and no
other product has been developed that duplicates either the
formula or the way it works.
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wd40 is good for breaking rusty bolts loose.. but thats about it.. it can be a lubricant in a pinch but it dries out rather quickly..

i would'nt use it on anything you need long term lubrication.. even short term it's only good in a pinch imo.
instead of wd40 use somthing with teflon in it. like Triflow, then you dont have to oil it afterwards.
Breakfree is all we ever used to clean weapons when I was in the Air Force. I love that stuff. WD works good in a pinch but like mentioned it can do bad things if not cleaned out completely.

To this day I still use nothing else but Dawn Dish soap to clean all my Black Powder guns.
for those that also R/C, WD40 will fire off a 2 cycle, without a glow driver
I have used WD40 for many years with great success. I know there are people that will not use it for their own reasons, but it has always served me well.

I also have Break Free but do not use it much.
I use Break Free CLP... it's milspec

In truth, BREAK-FREE CLP is a scientifically formulated
synthetic liquid specifically designed to do three important
tasks simultaneously.

1. Clean metal
2. Lubricate metal
3. Protect metal
Sounds truly amazing but what technic do you employ? Do you disassemble spray and wipe or just spray it through the gun and blow it out with air?
ok, goody! This is how i use it... First, get your Break Free.

Take the slide off of the pistol,
spray the chamber,
down the barrel,
top of frame
and then the magazine well.

I spray for about 1 sec into the chamber (Down barrel),
then wet the frame with this stuff.
Spray your bore brush,
then go on to brush the barrel,
special attention to the chamber area.
When I'm content on brushing, i will stop, swab the barrel then jag the barrel.

Spray some on your cleaning toothbrush and inside your slide,
Then get in all of the nooks and crannies on the frame and slide,
special attention to the slide rails, don't forget the magazine well.
When you are content with the toothbrush, for me i use an oversized patch and wipe up all residue, there's usually plenty to find with Q-Tips and toothpicks also.

Before i assemble the weapon i put a light coat of 3-in-1 oil down the barrel.

Then I wipe her down with a weapon wipe. (My hands are very acidic)

Though with the product's directions, no disassembly is required, all you have to do is spray your firearm down, and it will clean and remove all fouling and whatnot, then evaporate and leave no residue. I like my more hands on technique myself, plus this stuff was not cheap, so i think my way is more economic. :)
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Sounds like a good method with not too much disassembly.
I like a clean gun, but I tend to be lazy.
Rem oil seems to do the job for me. I've been warned against WD40 - so (out of fear) I've never attempted to use it.
eezoxx, rem oil, hoppes #9, shooters choice lead remover. Remington Brite bore. I use them all! A dirty weapon can cost you your life.
instead of wd40 use somthing with teflon in it. like Triflow, then you dont have to oil it afterwards.
I use Triflow as well... It is the best stuff. But many folks have never heard of it or tried it. I am also starting to use some foaming cleaner too. I used lots of breakfree in the military.
I use Hoppes #9. I just love the smell of that stuff.
i,m a handyman and like someone said wd40 is good for rusted nut&bolts but it is not a lube in fact it will remove oils and lubes. i would never use it on a gun.
OK I will post this again... Guys use what you want just don't say that WD-40 will damage plastic ... it just can't based on what is in it. Mythbusters did a bit on this and came to the same conclusions.

"Based on what is in WD40 there is no way it could hurt either the metal or plastic parts of a hi point firearm .. or any other firearm for that matter Exclamation

However some paints may be affected! EG water born acrylics.

The main ingredient is mineral spirits EG paint thinner which is a very gentle solvent. the rest are various types of oil.

I have used WD40 on many plastic switch housings and plastic on plastic components in the automotive industry for years and never had any plastic damaged.

One note!! Any petroleum based oil will deteriorate o-rings that are not designed for use with petroleum oil! Paintball gun o-rings are generally not designed for this type of abuse as paintball gun oil is a silicone oil.

Now as for the issue of evaporation the reason it seems to evaporate more than dedicated gun oils is the amount of mineral spirits.

My Father would be the first to tell you that there is a substantial coating of oil left even when it looks dry! He is a painting contractor and has major problems when refinishing door trim due to wd40 overspray around the hinges and door latches. It generally takes a healthy dose of lacquer thinner to remove the oil and prepare for paint.

The WD40 myths and that is what they are have been started by people who for some reason cannot abide using something on there gun that is not overpriced and sold specifically for guns. As some previous posters have said look at the ingredients list on any aerosol gun oil and you will be surprised at the similar list of ingredients. Also using synthetic oil on a gun is a total waste of money as it is only a more thoroughly refined version of the regular stuff and for rust protection that is not needed!"

The above is what I posted in the WD-40 thread on this forum topic.
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WHAT!!! :shock: You mean you guys actually clean your guns? :think: I'll have to check into this as I have NEVER cleaned mine! :wink: :lol:
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