Ed's Red, what's best, and is it a good cleaner for the entire gun

Discussion in 'General Hi-Point Discussion' started by rippinryno, Aug 26, 2015.

  1. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking to make some bulk Ed's red. Does this stuff work for everything? Chamber, mags, bore, slides, etc?

    I'm looking for a do all cleaner, and can come back with oil after i'm done.

    The mixture I am using is going to be equal parts of

    1. Dexron II ATF
    2. K1 Kerosene
    3. Odorless Mineral Spirits
    4. Acetone

    I've heard this stuff is good and I know it will last me much longer than the puny bottles of hoppes or clp that i'm getting.

    My question is....is this stuff harsh on paints, plastics, and other gun parts? it seems the acetone and mineral spirits alone could cause paint removal or other issues? Is this the best concoction to use or are there better ones?

    Would I even need to oil after using this or is it pretty much all in one?
     
  2. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Here is what I use Rippy

    Gun cleaner:
    1 part Syn dextronIII, 1 part kerosene, 1 part Mineral spirits, 1 part Mobile 1 syn oil

    Gun oil:
    2 parts Syn dextronIII, 2 part kerosene, 1 part Mobile 1 syn oil, 1 bottle of STP blue bottle

    Copper fouling remover:
    4 parts 10% Ammonia, 1 part kerosene, 1 part dish washing soap Ivory white bottle or Formula 409
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 26, 2015

  3. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Pretty much, yes.

    After the Mineral Spirits evaporate, it will leave a thin film of Dexron/Kerosene mix. The Kerosene will evaporate next which will still leave a Dexron film. ATF is a lube. However, you may be happier with an additional lube such as Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w30.

    Acetone is only necessary for shotgun bores, to clean out plastic residue from shooting plastic hulls/wadding.

    The acetone can be hard on some plastics and wood finishes. You don't need it if you're not shooting plastic coated bullets or shell cases.

    It will leave an ATF film, and I consider it a CLP, but many people give an extra lube after cleaning with Ed's Red.
     
  4. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    pefert thanks guys, so basically if i'm not cleaning my 12 gauge then I pretty much don't need the acetone. I will leave it out then.

    a quart of atf, kerosene and mineral spirits is what i'll go with.
     
  5. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Rippy make the ones I listed each has a purpose. You will have enough to last for damn near for ever. Get some dispensing bottles and label them. I sell mine to the guys that I work with. We also use them at work. Great stuff.
     
  6. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    When I made my batch of Ed's Red, I was left with 3 Quarts of the stuff! I gave away about a quart to various friends and have used about a quart between cleaning stuff and using it as an immersion bath for ultra-sonic cleaning. I still have a full quart or more left.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  7. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    1
    moona your cleaner uses 2 parts oil essentially, is it still strong enough to clean effectively? i'm wondering if i could just skip your last part of the syn mobil and just use the first 3, ATF, Mineral Spirits, Kerosene, and have a slightly stronger mix?

    Then i can just use the oils i have on hand for the final oiling of the gun. I have probably 5 bottles of random gun oils, rem oil, hoppes oil, etc. Once those start getting low I could make my own oil, but at this point oil is one thing i have plenty off.
     
  8. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    It only has one oil Mobile 1 syn, ATF is more detergent agent, I like it added it helps out while cleaning and if you have to let it sit the Mobile1 will not evaporate. The gun oil I use after cleaning, Rem oil is good for wiping down the outside and leaving on to stop rust, but is real thin. Use Super lube or some other syn grease on the rails. Super lube does not stink like some of the others and will not stain your close and is safe for kitchen appliances. get the grease not the spray.
     
  9. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

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    ok, is mobil 1 the only synthetic to use or can it be any synthetic? i've got plenty of syn oil around.
     
  10. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    I really don't know. Use what you got I would say
     
  11. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

    950
    1
    i would imagine any syn motor oil will do the trick. i've got some rotella i'll use.
     
  12. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Mobile 1 Synthetic is the most popular among gun nuts but any light weight motor oil will work. Synthetics are generally preferred by gun nuts for the same reason that they're preferred in engines by gear-heads. You could use Wal-Mart brand 5w30 non-synthetic if you wanted, particularly if you don't run thousands of rounds through your gun before you clean. But synthetics last longer before breakdown, stay cleaner, lube marginally better, are more resistant to heat, etc.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  13. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Yum! ... ;)
     

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  14. missiledefender

    missiledefender Supporting Member

    I go to Walmart or the BX/PX and buy WD-40, if its good enough for Nukes...its good enough for your gun.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2015
  15. OldOutlaw

    OldOutlaw Supporting Member

    You may want to stop at a couple of the Military Surplus stores if any in your area. In March the ones around here started putting cans of GI bore cleaner on the shelves. They seem to have mostly 8oz cans and a few 16oz cans. All made in 1974. I bought a bunch of cans. $1.75 for the small and $3.00 for the large. It really cleans all metal on any gun. It seems to clean bores right down to clean metal.
     
  16. rippinryno

    rippinryno Well-Known Member

    950
    1
    nice. I made a gallon of this ed's red last night. used it on the pt111, seemed to work just fine!

    thanks for the pointers
     
  17. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Say that again. A "gallon"!!!! The hardest thing about Ed's Red is making it in "small quantities." :)

    The second hardest thing will be using it all up. hahahahah
     
  18. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Keep believing that and if and when it sticks when you need it your screwed. Its not a lube its removes water.... DO NOT USE WD40 on a weapon.
     

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  19. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    It does lube. When used that way, it works best as a penetrating oil. Many still use it as a cleaner. It also works darn well as an external surface protectant. In fact, I believe that's where it works best and is what it was designed for.

    The problem is that it's easy to use improperly.

    If you can take the barrel out, then take it out and you can use WD40 down the inside of the barrel to loosen carbon fouling. Scrub it out good.

    Personally, I only recommend WD40 as an external surface protectant, and then only used in certain ways. Spray the WD40 on a soft rag and then use that to wipe town the exterior surfaces of the firearm. Used that way, it does a fine job of protecting from rust.

    If it gets sprayed into the internals, particularly if it's sprayed liberally and then left to sit, there's a pretty good chance it will eventually harden and build up like a lacquer.

    It's like Johnson's Paste Wax. You use it on the outside of the gun to protect from surface rust, not the inside. :(

    On that note, I've found that Johnson's Paste Wax does a better job of protecting external surfaces than WD40 but it requires more work to do it right and needs more care exercised to prevent intrusion into internal mating surfaces.

    I hate "talking bad" about it because it's a great product. ...when used properly. But so many people never learned to use it properly. Now I have to throw all of these caveats at it that I thought was common knowledge. I feel a little like I'm telling people to not put Diesel into their standard gasoline tanks. "Of course you don't, didn't anyone ever tell you?" :(

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015
  20. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Which comes down to there is more benefits to not using it. Wax works better or even oil works better. It was not meant for guns so if you use it like you do fine but you know of better products to use. Most people use it as a cleaner and gun oil. Which is not the way to go. But they do keep me in cash. Clean a gun fouled with WD40 $100.00 ;) Clean a gun with out it $35.00. The funny thing is you can warn them and they will still do it. :rofl::rofl: