Wow guys, both pistols are impressive! James, I'm really hoping I won't have to send this thing back but thanks for the advice. I'm ordering the David Mahan sights today. I'm sure MOM would send me a new sight but I just don't want to deal with the cheap, stock plastic sight anymore. After I install the Mahan sight and do the magazine and feedramp tweeks, I'm hoping everything will be good to go. By the way, what's the best distance to sight the C9 in after I get it to at least print on paper? Thanks!
I initially zero all of my pistols at 7 yards, right out of the box, because it accounts for any egregious errors in sight settings from the factory. That zero, for all of my .45 pistols, including my 45 JHP, is good for a 25-meter point of aim equalling a 25-meter point of impact.
I had some weird problems with my .380 when I got it (used). I could barely get shots on the paper. I kept feeling like either: 1) I had somehow lost the ability to shoot. Or 2) There was a sight issue. Finally I ordered a laser boresight. When I loaded it into the gun I discovered that the rear sights on my .380 had been damaged somehow and the gun was indeed firing 2-3 feet low and to the left at 15 ft. Got me a Mahan sight (had been kicking around the idea anyway) and now my Hi-Point shoots like it should. I don't care for the design of the stock HP sights, the rear sight rides on a spring and along with the plastic body there is little to keep the rear sight from moving under just about any pressure, the Mahan sight is positive contact in all directions and made from aluminum. Much more reliable in my (admittedly un-expert) opinion. Not saying this is your issue, but your problems sound similar to the ones I had.
Thanks for that. That sounds exactly like what happened to me Jed. Like I stated earlier, my C9's rear sight is cocked to the left and no amount of fiddling will level it. Can't wait to get the Mahan sight as I'm sure it will make a big difference.
Well, took the C9 apart and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I took the two mags and bent both the front and rear lips slightly on each. The rounds seem to go in and come out easier now but only a trip to the range will tell if the jamming is fixed. I saw no reason to do the magazine spring tweak as they both seem plenty strong. While I had the gun apart, the feedramp seemed fine. I could see where someone at the factory had taken a little extra time and care and filed or Dremeled the high spots and everything looked smooth. There's still factory paint on the body of the feedramp but it is extremely smooth and I cannot see anything that would prevent a round from transitioning smoothly from feedramp to chamber. I could not see where any extra smoothing anywhere would accomplish anything so I left it as is. Again, only a range trip will tell for sure. I just received the Mahan sight so that will be installed in the next couple of days. Then it's off to the range with my fingers crossed! I'll report back after I do.
Thats progress Gene. Do you have snap caps, I had two mags that gave me fits till I was able to use the snap caps to get the problem located and see if it was fixed. The Mahan site rocks just don't over tightened, I do this often, and have some loctite. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips James and I won't over-tighten the Mahan. I think I do have some 9mm snap-caps around here and I'll try that out. When I looked at the mag lips at first, when loaded, I could see where both lips were slightly riding against the rounds both front and back. When I bent them just enough, I could now see where the rounds were free and clear on all sides. I'm hoping there will be no resistance now when feeding.
No problem Gene, truth be told it was Tip a fellow HP member gave out on another thread. Here's hoping you come back from the range with a sore trigger finger and some hole-e targets
www.mahansights.com a must for your hi point pistol. I have one on each of mine and they shoot dead on
Nice! At what distance where you shooting? I just installed the Mahan sight on my C9. The 2 different sized flathead screws threw me at first until I found out the longer one is for the .45. I will say, the intial sight-in adjustment method is kind of complicated using 3 Allen wrenches but once set, it should be good to go. Can't wait to get to the range!
++++++ to the mahan sights. i also did a muzzle crown which tighened my pattern from 6 inches to 3 inches. I also did a triger job (C9) and lowered my pull for m a gritty 8 lbs to a smooth as silk 4.5lbs. If you do this and mess it up, MOM (Hi-Point) will likely NOT help on this. It would likely be considered a failed modification, not a broken or faulty part. Proceed at your own risk!!!! YMMV Have faith that you can get these parts if you mess them up. Use caution in maintaining 90 degree faces on the area you will polish in step 4. If you get this angle wrong, the two surfaces will have a tendancy to slip off each other instead of working with each other. This too can be fixed if you get it wrong, but rather safe than sorry. http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Hi-Point-33293/ModelC9-43171.htm The following steps WILL soften your trigger and remove MUCH of the friction in the HP C9 (and other) pistols. http://www.hi-pointfirearms.net/manuals/C-9_CF380.pdf 1. Remove slide 2. Remove right side grip panel. Note. Inspect/find the place on your pistol where the triger assembly (part 18) has a "step" cut in it. That "step" engages (part 11) the sear cam. Where the two parts come together, there is a LOT of friction on the powder coat/paint. 3. Drive out the pin that your trigger pivots on and is held in place by. 4. Using a fine whetstone, slowly polish the notch on the trigger assembly bar and on the sear cam where they meet. (I gently took mine down to bare metal and left a mirror smooth surface by polishing with 2000 grit wet/dry) DO NOT REMOVE METAL OR CHANGE THE ANGLE!!! YOU ARE ONLY SMOOTHING TO REDUCE FRICTION!!! You are primarilysmoothing the contact areas between parts 11 and 17 http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Hi-Point-33293/ModelC9-43171.htm Removal of this factory coating will change the way these parts mate by several thousanths, and lighten the trigger. 5. Just ahead (towards the trigger) of the "step" in the trigger assembly bar is a place where the inside of the right side grip panel rubs. This introduces much of the gritty feel in the trigger. I used 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to significantly smooth this friction area. The photo below shows the newly polished, bright area instead of black powder coated. http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n532/exisp/testing/TriggerMod1.jpg 6. Re-assemble and enjoy!!! Now!!!! Before anyone starts tweaking mag lips, load them FULL and let them sit for 2 weeks!!!! Stock, the mag springs are VERY stiiff and will cause feed problems. IN MOST CASES, you do NOT need to polish the feed ramp or tweak the lips on the mags.
Gene is this some kind of tease? Dying to know how the new sights and the range trip went. I'm going thursday finally after two weeks of uplanned events stopped me. Going to dirty up my C-9.
My C9 sometimes will not fully slide the shell in...sometimes you have to push the slide forward 1/2 inch to seat the next shell so you can fire again. Any Ideas? the C9 I use is WICKED accurate - folks at my range are seriously impressed with the groups no matter who is firing it. Tore the gun down as far as you can and lubed EVERYTHING but will try this Thursday to see if that fixes it.. And yes the C9 I use does not like Winchester White Box but eats everything else.
Lube everything good, just like you did. How many rounds do you have through it? Might need a recoil spring. Peace favor your sword, Kirk
No, no tease James and I'm still here. Been having some family health problems and haven't had a chance to get to the range. Hopefully soon and hopefully give a positive report.