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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Didn't kick no where near as much as I thought it would, in fact I was almost disapointed. However I do have two questions...

1) The Trigger: Seems abit tight and requires a good bit of pressure to pull. So much so it caused most every shot to go high. Is there any way to reduce the pressure needed to fire the weapon? At first I thought mabey I just sucked at shooting, but my dad brought his 30-06 out and I hit the target dead center. Neither one of us could hit the target with the mosin, and we both think it's because of the trigger. However I will admit that the rifle came with a Bayonet and I've heard that those need to be fired with the Bayonete on. However I was using ascout scope, so not sure which way to go.

2) Number of shots: My dad mentioned that when he sights in his hunting rfile, he can only shoot it about 3-4 times before the barrel get's hot and starts going wide. I was wondering how many times can a mosin be fired before the shots start goign wide like his 30-06 does? I know his is a hunting rifle and so was never intended to be fired over and over, and mine was designed to be a combat rifle and was expected to be fired over and over.
 

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Shooting high is common on MN's. As for the barrel heating up, depends some on your gun. If you are going to use it hunting, it will be rare for you to heat it up. I would try to keep it cool when sighting it in. Here is an article regarding doing some trigger work to an MN.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/mosinnaganttrigger/index.asp

Here's another one that steals ideas from several forums for making an MN more accurate:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4697284_mos...ce=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=yssp_art
 

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They do not need to be fired with bayobets on, that is if you are talking about a M91/30. The M44 is the only one that matters on due to barrel harmonics and the bayo is attached to the barrel permanently. You can do a fluff and buff on the trigger, sear and the bolt to ease some of that trigger pull. If you would like I could post a pictorial how-to tomorrow to show you how.
If you are talking about a M91/30 then the kick of those longer barreled Mosins is nowhere near what the recoil is on the carbine length versions. As far a how hot you can get it, well I will post a link to a vid that I did that actually has oil and cosmo boiling out of the stock after a quick string of 15 shots of heavy ball through a carbine length M91/59, even after all that, all shots were still dead on at 100yds. These are very tough guns and no current commercial production gun can hold a candle to the ruggedness of these old guns.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mine is a 91/30, I didn't think I would need the Bayonet on it, but I thought I would mention it just in case. A pic tutorial would be great, I'v never worked on a gun before, aside from basic takedown and cleaning. So I'm somewhat hesitant about doing any mods till I have a good idea what I am doing. As for the kick, it was actually kinda pleasent, I only put 10 rounds through it, but it did not bother me one bit.
 

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I guess I got lucky with My 91/30. Dead on out of the crate, smooth easy trigger pull, however 25 rounds and I was sore for a few days. Nice bruises one the shoudler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
looked through it, thanks for putting it up. I'll be looking at doing just that in the next day or so. Dp you know about how much of a reduction you get from this? The other suggestion was to add some small pieces into the trigger assembly and that reduced the pull from 10lbs to 8lbs. Just wondering which was more effective, or if both could/should be applied.
 

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they both get the same results, except when you add shims to the sear/trigger spring, you have a tendency to have that screw come loose an awful lot and no, I don't recommend using loctite on that particular screw. Also with my way, all you are doing is polishing what is there, you are not changing angles on the sear at all. The shim process tends lowers the amount of contact that the sear has on the cocking piece of of the bolt and that to me is not exactly the safest thing to do especially if carrying this gun with one in the chamber. Due to the hard to operate safety on the Mosin, most hunters I have talked to don't bother with trying the safety, they just depend on the stock sear doing it's job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had no problem opperating the safety on my Mosin. Of course the recoil was nothign to me, my wife tells me it has something to do with me being 6'3 and 300lbs... So by polishing it down your wy Kripp, am I to understand that it's roughly a 2lb reduction to the trigger?
 

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I have never bothered to check the actual pull on any Mosin that I own, they aren't target/match rifles to me unless I buy one of the later Finns, they were. All I can tell you is that feeling is believing and you will notice a large difference in the way that it breaks. You can have a 2lb pull on it and if it doesn't break crisply then it won't be worth anything. These guns were built to have a good bit of freeplay in all of the parts of the action, when you go changing angles on items like the sear, then you are asking for problems. Yes, you can easily drop in a fw shims and reduce the pull weight but just because it is possible doesn't mean that it is a good, safe idea.
 

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I did a light polish on my sear with a dremel and jewelers rouge. She was a bit "crunchy" on the way to the break due to sloppy machining back in '43. I smoothed her over and now she pulls and breaks like a champ! It didn't reduce the pull weight, but rather smoothed it out. It doesn't take much either, just a little bit to polish the rough spots without rounding the edges. With every 'crunch', it would pull my sights off target. Not a big deal at 100m, but at 400, it makes a HUGE difference.
 
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