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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now Ive done it, spilled the beans on my new idea,
Why cant some one make a bolt handle that folds down flater than the company issued one.
use the same bolt with the hex head on it, grind, or mill off the hex head. weld or silver solder a flat rounded triangle about the same size as my homak gun safe key, put it on spring detent , like the loading , charging tool that I bought for my Thom center muzzle loader,(Universal Power Rod™- Cat. No. 7980) when not in use, flip it down, towards the muzzle, when needed, flip it up. you would be able to thin the blot hold open spacer, to where it would only have to engauge when you pulled the bolt open and pressed the "key" in.
does any one here get where I am going with this? If so, I want the first one for free.

Ps.
Hi point can use this for free, If i get 2 new carbines, one, 4095, and one, 4595
Just PM contact me , and send the guns to Meyers guns, bath pa, 18014, in care of roland45
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The cocking handle and hold open spacer sticks out now like 1 inch or a little under including the bolt head. make the flip key/ cocking handle key the same length, the spring actuated detent ball would keep the side of the key in the closed position( along side the receiver with the wide end of the key towards the front of the receiver / muzzle) the only time the key might flip to the upright position is when the bolt is sliding back into battery, The detent should hold it flat, if not, then it would fall flat against the receiver when the bolt slams shut. if theres no problem with the bolt as it now comes from the factory sticking out that far. why would there be a prob with the "flip key / cocking key" sticking out that far until the bolt slams shut and the key folds back against the receiver under the inertia? the flat side of the key would never be able to flip against the back of the receiver because the steel behind it is not ground down. Now that I think about it, you could just have both ends of the bolt threaded, the (flip key / cocking key) would thread onto the(double threaded) now shorter cocking bolt, a spring under the key could eliminate the spacer that holds the bolt open. when needed, just flip the key up into the upright postion( towards the butt end of the rifle) rack the action open, push in the spring loaded key, and engage the hold open function. the bolt would stay the same thickness, but be shorter because now you can screw the key onto the threads which would be located in a recessed ( drilled in about 1/4 inch) area of the bolt, the outside round edge of the key would take most of the stress from the receiver opening and closing, wether shooting or for maintenance. Am I making any sense to any one in here? or am I the only one that can picture this?
just in case, if anyones thinking of making one, I GET FIRST DIBS, and if HPFA chooses to use this idea, I want First DIBS, and 2 new rifles. thats all, one of the first 4595s, and a 4095 with this option. Thats all, i am not greedy, i dont want money, just a thank you and 2 new guns.
Roland, <---- born in the great buckeye state, Gurnsey County.
 

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I want First DIBS, and 2 new rifles. thats all, one of the first 4595s, and a 4095 with this option. Thats all, i am not greedy, i dont want money, just a thank you and 2 new guns.
subtle Roland, very subtle. :D
 

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:postpics:
 

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I think this may be close to what he's talking about. The handle is either screwed on to the bolt (double threaded) or pinned to the bolt (like I have it). On the inside there's a spring attached to either the handle assembly or bolt with a high tension on it. That keeps the handle seated in it's lowered position while the assembly keeps it in alignment. When you need to charge a round you pull the handle out and back. It gives you more leverage and a firmer grip without having the handle always out and smacking you in the face. Below is an alternate way. I don't like it as much due to the fact that then the assembly went back it would pull at the spring forcing the handle out.

 
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