From Frustration to Elation

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by reaHP, Jan 24, 2008.

  1. reaHP

    reaHP Guest

    It seems as though they could make the magazines work better out of the factory box.

    I have a C9. The original 8 round mag, and an additional 10 round mag, had the same problem, nose up jam on the last round in the clip. Like clockwork. After reading several posts on here where others had the same problem, I gave the magazines a little tweek, problem solved.

    The first 100 rounds this problem occured every mag. The next 50 rounds through the gun, (after the tweek), never a jam.

    NOW, I love my Hi-Point.
  2. just to save me the time to dig up old post, can you be more detail about how you tweek your mag? i'll be picking up my c9 in 5 days.

  3. reaHP

    reaHP Guest

    It has to do with the lips at the top of the mag where it actually holds the bullets in.
    On both of my magazines you could see how the bullets would try to tip up when you were placing them in the magazine. They would feed fine until the last shell in the magazine which would feed nose up and jam in front of the slide. I took a pair of pliers and bent the front of the feed lips in just slightly so that the bullets had more of a tendency to stay down. I put two full loads through both magazines after making that adjustment, and had no more occurance of the nose up jam.
  4. Doing the mag tweak will almost always solve the problem you had, and its not limited to HiPoint mags either. I have had to do this with a LOT of magazines I have for my rimfire guns, namely the single stack variety. One year I bought a Romanian M69 .22lr bolt action trainer and picked up three 5rd spare mags that were made in Taiwan. Out of four mags I had to tweak every single one because the rounds wanted to jump nose high as I was cycling the bolt. Closing the mag lips just a wee bit solved the problem, after that I never had another issue with the nose high jams.

    A lot of CF380 owners have to tweak the HiPoint mags so they feed properly with the shorter .380acp round. Mags for the C9 and CF380 are one in the same and from what I have seen they work better NIB with 9mm than .380. Once you tweak the mag to run with .380 you will almost always have to tweak it again so it feeds properly if used in the 9mm C9. So, if you get a mag or two from someone who owned the CF380 plan on tweaking the mag feed lips so they will work properly in your C9.
  5. I finally made it out to the range to fire my new C9. I loaded 6 rnds into my 8 mag and 8 rnds into my 10 mag for the first few times. I shot a total of 100 rounds of WWB. I had a total of 5 jams, 3 with 8 mag and 2 with 10 mag. It was either the next to last rnd or the 3rd to last rnd. Would the mag tweak be the fix I need?

    Also, what is the best way to set the site and for what distance? I'm planning on taking a CCW course soon and want to be as accurate as possible.

    This is my first semi-auto and I love it. :p
  6. reaHP

    reaHP Guest

    If the jams were nose up in front of the slide, then I would say yes. That was the telltale sign for me that that was the problem.

    I kept reading posts about the "break-in" period and hoped that the problem would work itself out without me having to adjust the mags. The performance of the gun after I made the adjustment was like night and day, and I was glad that I had gone ahead and done it.

    I have a CCW class on Saturday, and I really didn't want my gun jamming on every mag during the class.
  7. squeak_D

    squeak_D Guest

    I've never had to tweek either the original or the spare mag I bought for my HP380. Yes considering the shorter size of the 380 round (as a whole) improper loading can cause jams :)

    With the 380's you MUST push each round to the rear of the mag after loading it, then prior to placing the mag in your weapon you MUST tap the rear of the mag several times against your palm to seat all of the ammo to the rear of the mag. Do this and you will not have any jams.

    I have a buddy who also has the HP 380. Got a call from him several weeks ago, as he pretty much reduced his HP 380 to a door stop because he was jamming it. (kid you not.., he was using it to hold open the door to his shop in his basement) I went out shooting with him one evening to to see what his probs were with his HP 380. I watched him load the mag and insert it in the weapon.... Sure enough he didn't push the ammo completey to the rear and didn't palm tap the mag prior to loading into the HP. 1st two shots BAM BAM, then JAM! Cleared that jam.., one more shot BAM, next shot JAM!.

    I told him I knew exactly what his prob was. I reloading his mag for him. Then had him shoot the weapon.. He emptied the mag without one jam. Fired flawless :) He put 250 round through it since I was at his place last, and hasn't had one jam since I showed him how to load the mag.
  8. You are going to have to be a little more specific on what you mean by setting the sight, physically how you do it? The proper way of looking down the sights?

    As far as the distance, I personally suggest sighting it in for the distance you think it would be used at.

    For instance if you are using it for HD and the maximum from where you would keep the pistol to your front door is 15 yds, then that would be a good starting point.
  9. waltham41,

    Sorry for the lack of info, in a hurray to post while at work.

    I lined up the top of the front and rear sight and tried to have equal spacing on each side of the front sight. One problem I am dealing with is mono-view contacts: right eye (dominant eye) has a contact for distance and the left eye has a contact that allows me to focus short distances and read. With both eyes open when trying to aim, my left eye kicks in and focuses on the front sight. To overcome this problem, I can squint the left eye and my right eye kicks in.

    I was shooting standing up. My shots were hitting about .5 - 1 inches lower and about .5 - 1 inches to the left. I lowered the rear sight 1/2 turn of screw and moved it to the left 1/2 turn of the screw. The shots were still low and left by about the same amount. I repeated the adjustments and still not much change.

    I know I should use a bench or something to consistently hold the C9 still and will try that. Do I have it correct that if I need to raise where the shot hit, I need to lower the rear sight? And to move the shot to the right, I move the rear sight to the left?

    These are probably newbie questions but it had been several decades since shooting anything other than a shotgun while pheasant hunting.

    Thanks in advance for you help!
  10. Oops, forgot... getting old I guess... :?

    The CCW qualification distances are 3 yards, 7 yards and 15 yards. When I shot the other night, the first 20 rounds at 5 yards were within a 10 inch circle. The next 40 rounds at 5 yards were within a 6 inch circle. The 20 rounds at 10 yards were within an 8 inch circle.

    I hope that is not too bad for some who last shot a handgun in 1972 (I was 17 and it was a .44 magnum; dang near took off my hand).

    Should I sight for the 15 yards? Or split the diff at about 10 yards?
  11. That sounds like a good start as far as accuracy, I would suggest leaving the sight adjustment alone and working on your shooting skills.

    Since you have such unusual contact lenses, you may want to try to shoot with one eye closed and see what happens.

    I would practice at 15 yds, then you will find that anything closer is easier.
  12. reaHP

    reaHP Guest

    Just back from CCW class

    Well... my C9 performed well during 100 rounds of use at the range during CCW qualifying. Still had 3 jams, all on the last round in the mag, all nose up, all on my 8 round mag. We were loading 6 rounds into the mags for each "line" of shooting so that means the 8 round performed flawlessly 12 out of 15 lines. The last "line" required 10 rounds in the mag so I had to switch over and that mag performed great even with rapid fire, no jam.

    The course I took was very well done, a lot of information crammed into 8 hours. The instructors were kinda skeptical about my Hi-Point. They told me before we went out to the range that they had never had a qualification completed with a Hi-point firearm. Not sure which model the people were using, but one of the instructors inspected my gun, (they inspect all of the guns being used), and was impressed with the fit and finish. He said the others that he had seen there for their course were a much sloppier fit, and didn't seem to function as well. I couldn't pin them down on which guns those were. He did make the comment that none of them were a compact?

    After finishing the shooting portion and going back inside for our wrap-up and test, they congratulated one of the females in our class for the best shooting ever in one of their classes by a female with a non-.22 firearm, and they congratulated me on being the first person to ever complete the shooting portion of their course using a hi-point. Wasn't sure how to take this at first, but I am personal friends with one of the instructors, and he did make the comment that he was glad he had not made any negative comments about the gun before we went to shoot considering how well it did. He did comment that the 3 jams he saw from it seemed to be mag related.

    I would also like to add that though I had 3 jams, there were 2 other guns there that had problems on almost every mag. Both were 22lr guns, one belonged to the range I think it was a smith, the other was a brand new gun that only had about 10 rounds through it before today, also a smith. At one point it had a partially engaged safety that was keeping the firing pin from being set even though the slide was cycled. That was a strange one as it looked like the safety was not even on.

    Okay enough rambling, I guess it is just a little elation at having finished the most time consuming part of my CCW license. Now I just have to file the papers, pay the money, get printed, and wait for the gun board to sign off.