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So. Say your equipment blew out a seam, or you went through a patch of brambles and hawthorne, ripping your pack or clothes.

If you have these items, you can do field expedient repairs;

A small spool of fishing thread, OR a small spool of T70 thread

Speedy Stitcher awl and bobbins.

A scissors/shears, or a knife will do

Iighter, match, etc, something to melt the edges of nylon fabric or the thread knot.

That is your most basic kit for repairing gear.

Once you get home, it is usually advisable to perform the proper repair or patch.

You want something like these sewing machines below; from best to "don't even think about it, a speedy stitcher awl is better"

1. Walking foot industrial, takes space, takes power, takes skills.

2. Straight stitch industrial machine, can be cheaper than the above, can be cheaper than the below, may require work, parts, and skils

3. Sailrite portable walking foot, and clones. Decent. Cult following. Domestic sized and motored but can handle most gear.

4. 1960s or older all metal domestic sewing machine, say, a Kenmore 158, Singer 15 Class, Singer 66, White Rotary. Watch for tension issues with some machines. I currently use a 15-91 as my primary until I get the Singer 31-20 Industrial all dialed in.

5. Heavy Duty sewing machines, domestic sized, really more for garments and light thread like T45 or cotton.

6. 1970s or so domestic machines, parts are starting to have plastic bits. Tensions arent great.

7. 1980s home/domestic machines and newer. Forget it. Unless you're making clothes for yourself and the kids; they won't do for gear. A speedy stitcher is better.

For leather... there are specialized machines that are better than what I listed, although they will have some features like #1 and 2 have.


Now. This was done on a Singer 15-91, a 19-ish year old Point Blank Interceptor OTV body armor shell; one of the 4 waist straps had been cut, so I looked in my drawer of webbing and found the A to Z Tactical Ebay sourced "Camo Green" webbing thats a dead ringer match to the webbing on this, and used Foliage/Light Olive T70 thread on the machine for the stitching. A few straight passes back and forth gives me a similar strength to the bar tack of 42 stitch zig zags thats used on the MOLLE webbing. @RACHGIER and @moona11 what "fuck you" gear did you have to attach to either this or the MOLLE FLC vest?

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I have a set of inserts coming so that I can fill it in and set it up for display
Thanks for the information and descriptions!

Rectangle Product Font Picture frame Art


Rerun
 
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