Glenfield mod. 10

Discussion in 'Gunsmith shop' started by lklawson, Mar 8, 2015.

  1. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    OK. I posted elsewhere that I picked up a Marlin Glenfield Model 10 for BSA Rifle Shooting Merit Badge use. But it's seen better days. Functionally it's fine but there's a good bit of external rust on the barrel. I intend to reblue (rust blue) it. I have never taken one of these down to parts so I'm soliciting thos with experience.

    First the rear sight. It's the classic flat spring with stepped ramp. The steps are missed but I can find or fab one so not a big deal. It's the flat that I don't know about. It is stamped as a spring clamp/claw at the barrel connect but under magnification it sure looks a lot like it's welded in place. I can work around that if it's welded but it would be easier to reblue if I could easily remove it. Anyone know if it's welded or just spring pressure press fit?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The front sight appears to be a sleve held on with a hex scew.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    More next post.

    Peace favor your sword (mobile)
     
  2. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Now for the rear assembly.

    It appears to just slip an an be held in place to the barrel by a pin. Does it just slip on or is it threaded and screw on. I'd hate to pop the pin out and try ruin it by trying to beat it apart if it screws together.

    Here it is with the pin.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Peace favor your sword (mobile)
     

  3. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    A number of pics.

    The trigger is amazingly simple. One pivot pin and a fairly heavy compression spring.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see where the stock protected the barrel and where the exterior is heavily rusted.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Can you see the groundhog on the stock? The stoc needs some TLC but it's not bad.

    Peace favor your sword (mobile)
    [​IMG]
     
  4. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Most of those rear sights wear just compression fitted I believe. I would leave it in because it will more than likely bend or warp if ya try to remove it. Check numrich for the parts diagram they are like a dollar to down load. It should help you with the tear down. Added bonus you will have a part list for the parts you lose or break.
     
  5. ajole

    ajole Supporting Member

    34,524
    10,759
    NE Utah
    90% sure the barrel isn't threaded into the action, it's just pressed and pinned.

    The rear sight should slide out, but I'd hit it hard with penetrating oil before and during any attempt to drive it out. And be ready to order a replacement.
     
  6. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    I've found a schematic online but it's small and pixilated. I may just pony up for the Numrich PDF.

    I'm not planning on taking the bolt apart, though I may give it a good soaking in Ed's Red followed by a scrub-down and blow out with compressed air. I don't think it's been cleaned since it left the factory. I cleaned it when I took the pics and the extractor had enough dirt under it to plant a garden.

    Thanks. I'll probably start on it next weekend. :)

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  7. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

    25,156
    1,408
    INDY
    Nice Gun!
    Was that a freebie?
    I also noted your "at the last moment" foot insertion, SWAGZY will be happy ;)
     
  8. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    No. I bought it a LGS.

    I did that special for you guys. :)

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  9. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

    25,156
    1,408
    INDY
    Still a good find, I know your frugality bone was in play ;)

    I was hoping it was a freebie for the Scouts. I'm hoping to find a good deal on
    45ACP & 22LR from one vendor and send you a nice little package :D

    You might re-send your address via PM, I think I deleted it by accident :(:eek::blush:
     
  10. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    I bought it at a brand new, small, "mom & pop" style LGS. The owner knocked off about 10% of his asking when I told him it was for the scouts and reminded him it was in pretty rough exterior shape.

    From what I can see, the bore looks decent, though dark.

    Incoming.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  11. FlashBang

    FlashBang I Stand With Talon Lifetime Supporter

    The rear sight is compression fit, the barrel is held in by a pin and is press fit, the front sight is held on with the set screw. I usually use heat to make removing the barrel easier. Use a barrel wrench so you don't damage it.... I've seen guys put pipe wrenches on them to twist them free.

    .
     
  12. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    I don't have a barrel wrench, but I do have a pipe wrench. That would mar the surface, though, right?

    So, lemme see if I track this.

    Drive the pin out of the barre/action, Lock barrel (or action) into a vice (using wood blocks, of course). Use a propane torch to expand the action. Use the wrench to twist action free.

    Got a recommendation for a Barrel Wrench? The only ones I'm finding on a quick google are for AR's.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  13. Rachgier

    Rachgier Administrator Staff Member

    I had an old leather strap wrench my grandfather used for changing his oil filter. Works like a charm on gun barrels.
     
  14. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    The Bolt:

    It's in good condition. Usage wear, but little rust (just a tad on the bolt-handle). I don't really want to tear it apart.

    I thinking of buying a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner and giving it an ultrasonic bath in one of three different possible liquids (in order of my current preference):

    I'm leaning toward either the Moose Milk. Anyone see any problem with that plan?

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  15. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    I like it.

    I used to have an steel strapped oil filter wrench but I haven't used it since I realized that I can't work on cars produced past about 1990. :(

    Not sure if it'll shorten down enough but it seems like a superior option. :)

    Any opinions about using penetrating oil first? I'm currently leaning away from the idea since I'm also thinking about a propane torch. Maybe one or the other, but not both.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  16. Rachgier

    Rachgier Administrator Staff Member

    Well yeah, my suggestion would be to not try them both at the same time. I've had a stubborn barrel or two that I started with penetrating oil first and ended up going to the torch the next day. IMO, the torch tends to be the quicker solution for a stuck or pressed in barrel.
     
  17. FlashBang

    FlashBang I Stand With Talon Lifetime Supporter

    A proper barrel wrench is expensive, ~$140, and you don't need that. Use a strap wrench like Rach mentioned. I would drive the pin out first, heat it up slightly and then give a good twist/yank on the barrel by hand to see if it breaks loose. You may get lucky and have it pull right out if there is no rust in there. Heck, try yanking it out cold once you get the pin out and see what happens, you may get lucky. ;)
     
  18. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Well, I want to start on it this weekend. However, I just found out that I'll be refinishing the master bathroom shower this weekend. :(

    [​IMG]

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  19. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Member

    427
    1
    For penetrating oil the best thing to use is equal parts atf4 and acetone, it beats any commercially available product by a far margin when it comes to ft lbs need to free nuts and bolts.
     
  20. Bull

    Bull Just a Man Supporting Member

    Seafoam is some pretty good stuff also..... Our mechanics swear by it