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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks. Quick question - What kind of lubrication does a Hi-Point C9 need, and where?

I'm used to lubricating slide rails, frame rails, etc. The Hi-Point has none. Surely the pistol needs some lube, somewhere?

While I'm at it - Has anyone tried removing the Magazine Lockout bar? Does removing it cause any operation issues? I'm used to pistols without the magazine safety, so the absence of one is no problem for me.

Thanks much.
 

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Hello folks. Quick question - What kind of lubrication does a Hi-Point C9 need, and where?

I'm used to lubricating slide rails, frame rails, etc. The Hi-Point has none. Surely the pistol needs some lube, somewhere?

While I'm at it - Has anyone tried removing the Magazine Lockout bar? Does removing it cause any operation issues? I'm used to pistols without the magazine safety, so the absence of one is no problem for me.

Thanks much.
I'll let others comment on the lube as I probably lube mine too much.

For the magazine disconnect, it's pretty easy. There is a small metal bar that can be removed after taking off the right side grip. YouTube covers this very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll let others comment on the lube as I probably lube mine too much.

For the magazine disconnect, it's pretty easy. There is a small metal bar that can be removed after taking off the right side grip. YouTube covers this very well.
Got it. Thanks. I got familiar with the bar by accident. When I took the right grip panel off, it and the mag release spring fell out. I had to figure out what they were and were they belong. I'm going to remove the bar. I just wanted to be sure that it has no effect on the function of the firearm.
 

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Got it. Thanks. I got familiar with the bar by accident. When I took the right grip panel off, it and the mag release spring fell out. I had to figure out what they were and were they belong. I'm going to remove the bar. I just wanted to be sure that it has no effect on the function of the firearm.
It won't effect the function of your pistol. I remove mine first thing - I hate them. Just remember to remove the CORRECT spring under the right grip panel and you'll be fine. Oh, and replace everything before you sell it - prevents aw suits later on;)
 
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@CrackerKen As Histed said, removing the magazine lockout bar has no effect on the pistol being able to fire.

You may have noticed that the Hi-Point manual doesn't mention lubrication; only cleaning.
In the past I lightly oiled the F/P channel, and put some light gun grease on the bottom of the slide where it comes in contact with the frame. But now I just lightly - and I mean LIGHTLY oil the F/P channel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It won't effect the function of your pistol. I remove mine first thing - I hate them. Just remember to remove the CORRECT spring under the right grip panel and you'll be fine. Oh, and replace everything before you sell it - prevents aw suits later on;)
Thanks. I'm saving it for sure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I not
@CrackerKen As Histed said, removing the magazine lockout bar has no effect on the pistol being able to fire.

You may have noticed that the Hi-Point manual doesn't mention lubrication; only cleaning.
In the past I lightly oiled the F/P channel, and put some light gun grease on the bottom of the slide where it comes in contact with the frame. But now I just lightly - and I mean LIGHTLY oil the F/P channel.
I noticed that in the manual. I've put a light coat of oil in a few places in the pistol that appear polished up from the action. That makes sense.

I've finished up and the pistol is back together. No magazine safety - nice. I've done the "trigger job"

One thing that concerns me, and I don't know if it is normal or not, is the way the slide functions. When the slide gets about 2/3 the way back, and before it's to where the slide lock can be engaged, there is a stop, and it takes additional force to get past that spot. Is this the point where the firearm is cocked?
 

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If it rubs grease it like the slide. Basically everything else use your favorite oil. And both are used lightly if your shooting it. If its going to be stored go heavier. You can always do a quick wipe later.
 

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I not

I noticed that in the manual. I've put a light coat of oil in a few places in the pistol that appear polished up from the action. That makes sense.

I've finished up and the pistol is back together. No magazine safety - nice. I've done the "trigger job"

One thing that concerns me, and I don't know if it is normal or not, is the way the slide functions. When the slide gets about 2/3 the way back, and before it's to where the slide lock can be engaged, there is a stop, and it takes additional force to get past that spot. Is this the point where the firearm is cocked?
Short answer - Yes. Make sure you pull the slide all the way back when loading from the mag
 
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My Hi Points I literally spray them clean with Rem Oil and put them away. I almost believe you could spit on them and they would work.
 

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My Hi Points I literally spray them clean with Rem Oil and put them away. I almost believe you could spit on them and they would work.
Yep
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks for all of the replies folks. I appreciate it.

I've got the pistol put back together, without the magazine lockout bar. I ran the recommended funtionality tests on the pistol, as per the instruction booklet, and all is well.

So, as I understand, the stop or hard spot when pulling back the slide is NORMAL? Right? From what I figured out, that is the point at which the sear connects with the firing pin and cocks the pistol. The reason I asked is because my other semi-auto pistols I've owned (Colt 1911, 4 Glocks, Taurus G2C) didn't have this sort of stop on the slide pull. It's not that I cannot pull it past the stop, I just wanted to be sure I had no malfunction going on before I go to the range with it.
 

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Thanks for all of the replies folks. I appreciate it.


So, as I understand, the stop or hard spot when pulling back the slide is NORMAL? Right? From what I figured out, that is the point at which the sear connects with the firing pin and cocks the pistol. The reason I asked is because my other semi-auto pistols I've owned (Colt 1911, 4 Glocks, Taurus G2C) didn't have this sort of stop on the slide pull. It's not that I cannot pull it past the stop, I just wanted to be sure I had no malfunction going on before I go to the range with it.
That is correct. As I said above, when loading from the mag, get totally medieval on the lover. After that, everything should be cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is correct. As I said above, when loading from the mag, get totally medieval on the lover. After that, everything should be cool.
Noted, and thanks much. Got it.
 
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Modern firearms are so good you can lube with almost anything. I was listening to One instructor being interviewed who claimed that he demonstrates this to his students by using all kinds of things ranging from peanut butter to, literally, the aforementioned ky. Apparently, his students think it's funny but it does prove a point.

I'm pretty sure that I read that old timers used to lube black powder guns and lube their patches with their grease.

Peace favor your sword (mobile)
 
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I'm pretty sure that I read that old timers used to lube black powder guns and lube their patches with their grease.

Peace favor your sword (mobile)
Bear grease, bees' wax and lanolin, sheep tallow, lard....all were used for black powder guns. I still prefer a mixture of lard and bees' wax on patches. Makes my rifle smell like breakfast (Bacon and honey toast)
 

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:)

I was dictating to my phone. I said "bear grease" but the darn thing decided I meant "their grease."

Stupid voice recognition. :p

Peace favor your sword (mobile)
 
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:)

I was dictating to my phone. I said "bear grease" but the darn thing decided I meant "their grease."

Stupid voice recognition. :p

Peace favor your sword (mobile)
I figured it was that or you had developed Moonitise, leaving you unable to type. Although, in his defense, he's gotten better
 
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