Hot rods and the ones that got away....

Discussion in 'Lounge' started by undeRGRound, May 17, 2014.

  1. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member


    What is your hot rod of choice, SwagZ?
    I used to do a lot of Mustang stuff, and ported heads/intakes etc.
    Fun times!
  2. SWAGA

    SWAGA No longer broke... Lifetime Supporter

    I had a not so good '79 Corvette as I bought some bodies project car.
    Sold it 5 years later, still a project car.
    Had all the parts together to make it a tire roaster but pulled the plug.

    0.030 overbored block
    Roller rockers
    Roller lifters
    Planning solid roller can
    Stroker crank for a 383 monstah!
    Dart Pro 1 Aluminum cylinder heads
    T45 manual 5 speed transmission
    Hi rise 'Daytona' hood

    Was aiming for 400-450 hp at the crank in a stick shift.......

    ImageUploadedByHi-Point Forum1400349282.400044.jpg

    ImageUploadedByHi-Point Forum1400349355.768277.jpg

    Pity I never got everything done.

  3. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

    I'm not a 'Vette guy, but that is (was?) SWEEET!

    More later, I could help you design a much cheaper and better performing engine...
    I used to be a really good cam designer for new cams on engine w/o aftermarket support.
    I just found my old cam master list of lobes this week,
    has some really hot low-lash solid or hybrid HR profiles :D
    It's all about the tune (with EFI) but with carb, it is uber-easy ;)
  4. Hermitt

    Hermitt Hey! Get Off My Lawn! Member

    Ahhh Dude... You bring back memories.....

    My old '69 Nova SS had a '65 Corvette 327 (HH block w/365hp) to start with... add in 12:1 pistons, 515L/316D Engle solid lifter cam, 202 fuelies with triple springs, teflon guide seals, pushrod guides, windage tray (in the oilpan), dbl roller timing chain, Edelbrock Torker, with a Holley 700 cfm dbl pumper, Mallory dual point w/ crab style flat cap, Cyclone long tube headers all bolted up to a Muncie M21 w/Mr Gasket Pro Shifter, pre-tensioned chassis lift rear torque bars through a 2.73:1 10 bolt rear end, 10" wide Cragar SS chrome 5 spoke wheels in the rear and 3" cragar SS on the fronts.....

    dyno'd at 416hp... ahhhh... I so miss that mighty lope!!!!! I was told many times that you could feel the car before you could see it! :p :p :D
  5. SWAGA

    SWAGA No longer broke... Lifetime Supporter

    Even though not a '79 this car was my inspiration.....


    This is how it was supposed to sound it LOUD...

    Last edited: May 18, 2014
  6. Dagwood

    Dagwood Supporting Member

    I have a 66 mustang that I haven't finished. I've had it for almost ten years. Time... money... etc...
  7. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

    I just have a humble 95 Mustang, gears, duals, BV heads and ported intakes with big TB.
    Oh, it is just a V6 but when fresh it trounced early 4.6 Mustangs and ran neck and neck
    with the 5.0 stick cars :D Also had some UD pulleys and CAI, roller rockers and (stock)
    roller cam. Preload was perfect, so it ran a little better than an untouched one. Set each
    valve separately. Fun Times, redoing head gaskets with your son on his first car!
    We did it all ourselves, he helped port the heads and intakes and assemble EVERYTHING!
    I had him porting at the tender age of 10 and he was a natural!
    Safety Goggles and gloves and everything. Even ear plugs :D

    The car even got 34 MPG going to the east coast, but that leg was mountains,
    mostly downhill LOL!
    But he got 30 and 31 when he drove it to North Dakota, working on the Bakken.

    It's a great car if you like old school factory muscle, not much power really, but it
    rides rough and handles like an old Trans-Am series car :D
    Eibach, Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix subframe system with jacking rails, handles
    like a slot car. Over 200,000 miles on it now, but it looks great on the outside and he
    just got $900 worth of new tires and wheels, building it up for an MPG car now.
    Needs new injectors, gets crap mileage around town but OK on highway.
    (24, or more with injector cleaner)

    Oh, it is lightened up quite a bit, we removed the AC and he got nearly all the sound
    deadening heat-gunned and scraped out, and other weight loss items. It was a
    crank-window model from the factory, and a 5 speed, so it was light to begin with.
    Stupid shop that did the new gears (3.08 for mileage) didn't get it quite right, so it
    has a whine around 40 MPH or so. They also broke his C-Clip eliminator on one side,
    and we warned them in advance. They said "it broke" so they got it welded, and
    sonny just bought and installed a new set once he got it back. Morons... :mad:

    Oh well, so many stories for just 1 car! I hope I can keep it forever, it was his first car
    and our father/son project. But it is finally getting past the "prime time" for repairs,
    he has maintained it very well, but a few items remain and the transmission is also
    getting hard to shift into second, (Syncro) so no more drag racing :D
    I'd have to really make sure and hit it perfectly, but missing second is a killer!
  8. budman70

    budman70 Supporting Member

    I have a Deuce Coupe that I put together in 03. Mild cam 350/350. Here's a pic of my BABY!!!!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  9. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member


    Actually, with the right roller cam, some high velocity heads and a victor Jr intake, I believe 500+ BHP would be pretty easy in a max-bored 350.
    The 3.75" stroker crank adds more bottom end torque, but tends to limit the high RPM, where the power is made. A set of the old L98 heads with big valves, fully ported, and port-matched to the intake with a 700 CFM double pumper (or maybe a 750 CFM vacuum secondary, 3310 I think) can support the power quite easily. I'd run as much CR as possible with premium unleaded, but using 6" (or longer) rods will make it fairly easy to avoid knock and ping. Diamond makes a reasonable custom piston,used to be around $400 a set when JE and stuff like that was running almost 600 :eek:
    Blueprinted and Balanced bottom end makes up the balance.

    Maybe Twisted Wedge heads, but something with intake ports under 200 CC and a fairly aggressive ramp rate, a medium large duration (230*+ @ .050") and less LCA than most anyone recommends :D But the ramp rates negate the degrees of overlap, but you still get some. I have this overlap setting chart that David Vizard developed, and it really sets a cam on KILL. He built a stroker big block (475 ci) that idled @ 600 RPM and made over 600 HP! It also had a huge carb (800 double pumper, iirc) and big heads and intake.
    Very small cam duration, but very tight LCA. It got BSFC #'s in the low .31x ranges! Cam Timing was about 260* seat to seat which is really short, but it moved quite a bit of air thru the heads in that short time.
    I believe it was Brodix BBC heads that they used.

    Engine Design is not that hard, once you learn the proper math behind it.
    Even better, we could get you a cam spec from ASM, they basically guarantee to get you within 1-2% of Max Power for your combo the first time but the cam form really takes almost a "pro" to fill out :p
  10. My 1st car was a 67 Ford Fairlane GT Fastback , 390 with a mild cam , Holley 650 with headers !! Sweet car , I bought it from a kid in Auto shop at school who completely rebuilt the engine but could not get it running , I bought it for $65.00 and an old 410 shotgun that I had redone !!

    Towed it home , put a battery in it , Listened to it misfire a couple times , Turned the distributor around 180 , fired it right up ! Drove it to school the next day and promptly got banned from parking it on school grounds for 2 weeks for pulling it in front of the Auto shop locking it up and burnt teh rear tires off of it until I had smoked the WHOLE Vocational building up in nice thick black smoke !! It was worth buying 2 new rear tires for lol !!
  11. Back2School

    Back2School Member

    lol Listening to you guys makes me feel like a kid again.

    I never tore mine that far apart, but I had some fun cars.

    Now I go slow and play in the dirt!
  12. MachoMelvin

    MachoMelvin Well-Known Member

    Not mine, but my brothers. 65 Fastback 2+2. He has way over $50K in the package. My 1st car 1973 was a 66 Mustang, 6cyl, 3 speed on the floor. It was POJ?

    Attached Files:

  13. Not2ManyGuns

    Not2ManyGuns Member

  14. Not2ManyGuns

    Not2ManyGuns Member

    I had this car for 20 years. My wife had a garage sale and a lady wouldn’t leave, even after the sale was over, until I sold her the car. I told her the car is not for sale; however, the only way to get rid of the lady was to sell the car. It’s a sad story, too emotional to tell any more.

    Attached Files:

  15. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

    How Much, N2MG??? ($)

    Not Enough, I imagine
  16. budman70

    budman70 Supporting Member

    Really nice car. :)
  17. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    Go Dagwood GO! The Duster took me 9 years to complete race ready, and another year to get legal for the street.


    It don't look like much but then it's not supposed to. It's built to a set of rules, and because someone decided to start a bench racing thread I'll play.

    73 340 Duster, 360 + .030, 11.7:1 measured. 280/280 .490/.490 108 deg center hyd Purple Shaft. 360 irons with, 2.02/1.60 pocket ported to match and cleaned up on both sides. Offy duel port 360 manifold. Quick Fuel 650 double pumper E85. Custom fabricated ram air induction air box. Mopar performance and Crane valve gear from the cam up, Manely stainless valves. KB piston. Perfect Circle rings. Eagle rods. Internally balanced cast crank (the weak link). Mpoar performance windage tray. Custom fabricated, killer trapped and baffled, road racing low profile 6qt oil pan. Mopar and MSD Ign. Milodon 3 qt oil pressure accumulator (10 qt total capacity). 833 4 speed, 4th is 0.76 overdrive. Lakewood scatter shield. McCloid hyd throwout bearing (cost a boat load). 3.89 final drive posi. 4 wheel discs. Wilwood bias adjustable peddles. Custom built 3 point onboard fire suppression (I even made the nozzles) with a control that can direct 100% flow to the engine. Custom built escape hatch with a single release...just in case it gets a little hot. I only removed the useless portions of the uni-body. The idea was; I was willing to sacrifice a 100lbs of weight to ensure the chassis was torsionally rigid. I then built a minimal legal cage and tied it into the uni-body in 25 locations. The cage and the factory chassis are one, and you can tell it when you drive it. The suspension is stock geometry, except the sway bars which I made, and it's all hung on PST polygraphite bushings. The torsion bars are aftermarket 1" and the leafs are built up from stock components. Aprox 360lb/in front wheel rate, and 160lb/in at the rear. The CG is very neatly located and can't get much better without a redesign of the car. 450HP 500+torque and it weighs 3250lbs with half a tank of fuel. Oh and the gas...22gal Fuel safe cell, Holly electric and regulator, and all the lines through out are AN/MS. Oh God there's a lot more, radiator, the trick custom made catch tank, the oil cooler, the front end duct work, the air dam, the drivers restraint system, every trick I've learned in 40 years of hot rodding and 34 years of airplanes...the electrical system custom designed and built by me and looks like an airplane system cause it is. There is nothing from bumper to bumper (it doesn't have a front one it just looks like it does) that hasn't been tricked out with the single mission of going fast.

    It's a cool car, and if I get everything in one sock it will be Raptor red by summers end.
  18. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    This car has a lot of thought towards safety built into it. I was in engineering school as I built it. An example is the fuel storage system. A fuel cell of course, but beyond what the rules require. Where to start...the car is built to take a massive rear end collision and not burn. The rear bumper and structure was retained and massively beefed up and built down. The idea being if some yahoo in a Porsche decided to knife under the rear of the car he was in for a big surprise. His nose might not stop collapsing until it reaches his windshield, but the Dusters ass ain't going nowhere. Should that fail the cell is designed to stay attached to the car, and the lines are routed so under the most likely frame distortions they will go slack. And should the frame be shoved in an unlikely direction the lines have slack built in so they can follow the cell without ripping loose. The firewall is sealed, unless torn open no fuel can get into the car. Should the firewall be compromised the interior of the car is built to deal with that. Loose gas is subject to the laws of gravity like everything else. Most gas that comes through the forewall will settle to the floor. The left side floor is dammed behind the drivers seat and sealed so no fuel can run under the seat and into the foot well. The interior fire suppression nozzle dumps under the drivers seat to kill any fire that gets through the gantlet. The floor of the trunk area is made of cardboard by design. More than tough enough to seal out air and cause rear down force, but should a pressure wave of exploding fuel start in the trunk it will go down and out though that cardboard like a hot knife through butter. And there is more. The deck lid closure pins are 1/8th inch mild steel. Should a pressure wave develope larger than the cardboard can dump the pins are intended to shear, slamming the deck lid onto the rear window creating a steel barrier to prevent fuel from getting into the car. Gregory refuses to burn. The instrument panel is trick the list goes on.
  19. Meatball

    Meatball Member

    Here's my little '34 3 window coupe:

    Attached Files: