Hi-Point Firearms Forums banner

How to Cast from Wheel Weights

16090 Views 89 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  hobbles
Well here we go. I looked for some good videos on the process of casting and never really found something that worked for me. There are some really good write ups on this process. The problem I had with these is everyone kind of acted like they were some Scientist. It doesnt have to be that hard when you first start out.

The first thing you should do is try to read a good reloading manual or casting manual. I read the Casting section of the Modern Reloading Manual from Lee 3-4 times....

After you have done that and you think that casting is something you want to get into, we need to get a few items.

You dont need to get these exact item but I thought this would be the best way to do it for me.

Some type of burner. We are using a Turkey Frier.

Now that we have the heat we are going to need a good pair of gloves!!!! I am using a pair of leather work gloves and a set of Welding Gloves. Make sure they are thick or your hands will get hot in a hurry.

Then we need a way to melt the WW (Wheel Weights) down. For this I am using a 1 pint Cast Iron pot.

Now you can use the Lee Production bottom pour pots for this but I think it would be a pain in the butt to get all of the clips and contamination out. I would also not want all of that in my production pot.

Regardless of how you melt it down you will need a set of needle nose pliers, A spoon off some sorts (just a old spoon) slotted spoons work really well for this, And a place to put all of the clips and contaminated lead scale.

You will also need to get a Flux of some kind. I am using Lee bullet lube for this. You can use bees wax, and I have heard of some people using saw dust?? I use the Lee Bullet Lube just to keep it simple for me. What ever you use make sure the it does not have a corrosive in it or it will rust your pots in a hurry. There are many brands out there a quick Google search will find you many.

We are going to need some type of Mould to put all of the melted lead!!! I have the Lee Ingot Mould, but it was just not very good for producing alot of lead. The Aluminum is thin so it stays molten and soft for a while before you can dump and refill. My fix to this was the FISH AND CORN moulds!!!!!!! It also is just something different. Not to mention that they are cheaper than the Lee Ingot Mould. They are simply Cast Iron corn bread moulds. The fish Mould is just over 2 pounds and the corn Mould is just over 1 pound when ther bars come out.

I have heard of people using all sorts of things for the Ingots. Cupcake tins, Soda cans with the tops cut off, Loaf pans, Really what ever you can find that is metal could work.

THIS IS YOUR ENEMY!!!!!!!!! This is a ZINK WW. If you keep the heat DOWN to just were the WW start melting the Zink will not have a chance to melt. Lead melts at 621*f. Zink melts at 786*f. So if you get a WW that just seems to not want to melt just let it go it will be ok you can get more lol. This WW had a thick coat of paint on it and look like all of the other WW in the bucket... You should not find to many of these. Just work fast as the lead starts to melt and you should be ok.

Last but not least you will need a good source for these!!!!!

Now have a look at these videos and I hope they help!!!!!!!

Ok this is another work in progress for me like I said above I have to either figure out how to cut this video down as it was 56mb to large. I will also get together videos getting it form the corn and fish into the bullet form.

Please remember I am by no means a expert at this...yet... I just know that something like this would have really helped me as I though I had to go to MIT before I would have the smarts to do something like this. It is quite the opposite. IT IS A VERY EASY PROCESS. Just take your time and use some trial and error.

Hope this helps some of you out.

Tutorial to come. For now here is the video!


See less See more
61 - 80 of 90 Posts
With the Lee Tumble Lube bullets, it's not mandatory that you resize and lube the bullets. I haven't ever done it and have never had any leading in my barrel.
Having shot many thousands of cast bullets I have found that without a gas check the hot gases will burn and deform the base of the bullet thus upsetting the ballance of the bullet and affecting accuracy; plus the molten base being softer contributes to leading of the barrel which also affects accuracy.

The resizing of any cast bullet assures that each and every bullet weighs the same; the shape is the same; and many shooters feel that it also hardens the bullets somewhat. This also ensures better accuracy.

There are many different types of commercial lubes; plus many go so far as to make up their own lubes; the lubes help to lessen leading of the barrel which also ensures a little better accuracy.

Even with these short barreled pistols like my C9 in 9mm; weighing the bullets and the brass, and then seperating them into a minimum of 3 weight groups; plus the steps I mentioned above; plus weighing each charge on a scale as opposed to a powder measure will give the shooter noticeable smaller groups. Many shooters are capable of obtaining 1/2 minute (1/2 inch) 10 shot groups at 100 yards with cast bullets following all of the above steps; assuming the rifle is capable of such groups. I have an old 243 Sako Vermint Master with a bull barrel that is still capable of shooting 1/2 inch 10 shot groups at 100 yards with cast bullets.

I have never shot the Lee Tumble Lube bullets you mention; I will have to try them.

Take care
See less See more
Just to let you know, the Lee Tumble Lube bullets that I shoot, I cast myself. You buy the Tumble lube molds from Lee to cast your own bullets. I currently shoot 9mm TL and .45 ACP TL bullets.
woodsman1st- 95% of lead pistol bullets arent gas checked. ive shot thousands of them out of my glock, SIG and HP with no problems. Gas checks are good for high velocity rifle rounds but ive shot 308 and 30-06 with no gas checks and minimal leading.

also lee tumble lube bullets are specifically designed to not need sizing. lee states so in the directions for the molds. also not that tumble lube molds are almost all for handgun designs where there is lots of room for lube compared to a rifle bullet.

Thanks for the info on the tumble lube bullets; as I stated I will have to give them a try.

you are correct on gas checks and rifle bullets; as far as handgun bullets that gets into the many different opinions of shooters. I have shooting partners that also never use gas checks for the same reason you stated and we endlessly debate the issue. My standard reply is "it depends on the softness/hardness of the lead and the amount, or lack of, tin in the lead. By no means do I ever say that anyone is doing anything wrong when shooters get on a topic like this; and I am always open to a new idea, and these lee tumble bullets are new to me as I have never tried them. This is all part of the endless debates that surround reloading and make it so much fun.

One thing I forgot on my previous post regarding accuracy is slugging the bore to help find the exact size of your bore so you can cast that perfect
bullet that fits a particular firearm.

Since I am a newbi in this forum let me state that I never intend to imply that my way is the only way, or the best way, of doing anything, nor do I want to give the impression that I know everything there is to know about anything. I just try to show what works for me; and I never hesitate to ask for an opinion from others. I have asked several questions regarding my new Hi Point C9 9mm from you guys and have received answers every time from several of you which I appreciate. One of you told me to call Hi Point for the ghost ring sight and they would ship it to me free of charge which I did, and they are shipping it to me as you stated. One even went so far as to post some pics of the sight for me; that was so nice to go to that trouble for me. By telling me about the tumble lee bullets that again was appreciated and I will try them. By sharing ideas like this we save each other lots of time and money. If someone suggests something and I try it I will always come back later and give the results if they are good results for me in my firearm; if it doesnt work for me I seldom mention it unless asked. This forum seems to be filled with a great bunch of knowledgable shooters and I enjoy being in it.

With handguns, although I have shot revolvers for over 50 years, this is my first semi auto pistol, and have no personal experience with them; so I will have lots of questions about them no doubt. I am still uncomfortable with the idea of carrying one in the chamber and safety on; it gives me the willies lol; but to do otherwise would make me too slow if I need to use it 'RIGHT NOW'.

Is there a general opinion on what the best lube is for the tumble lube bullets? And where the barell is so short, what is the general opinion on the hardness of the bullets so the bullet can 'grab' the rifling? I am thinking that the bullet should be a tad of the soft side or it will be through the barrel before the rifling can 'grab' it; am I wrong?

See less See more
i use pure WW lead thats quenched on dropping. works fine for me. i use all Lee Alox lube on my tumble lube bullets, but any alox type lube should work. the thoery behind teh tumble lube design is instead of having one thick groove full of lube, you have multiple small grooves with a layer of lube in them, closer to the bore.

The resizing of any cast bullet assures that each and every bullet weighs the same; the shape is the same; and many shooters feel that it also hardens the bullets somewhat. This also ensures better accuracy.
Resizing cast bullets does nothing to change the weight of the bullet. Resizing simply displaces the lead, not remove it. The reason for resizing bullets is to ensure the dimensional consistency of the bullet, so that each bullet will be the same diameter. This is important for a few reasons. When all the bullets are the same diameter, then when the bullets are seated in the cases, they all will produce the same amount of neck tension in the case. When bullets are slightly different in diameter, then the neck tensions will vary, affecting the start pressures which will also affect the accuracy. Sizing the bullets to the same diameter will also help ensure that each loaded round will fit into the firearm's chamber the same way. When I first started using tumble lube Lee bullets in my 38 special revolver, I didn't resize them, only lubed them. Later at the range, I found out that almost half of the rounds I loaded wouldn't fit into the chambers. Many of the bullets were oversized, which made the cartridge diameter too large to seat into the chamber properly. Once I started resizing the bullets and including the use of the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die, every round drops easily into the chamber now.

Bullet sizing:

1. Uniform Neck Tension
2. Uniform Start Pressure
3. Uniform Rifling Engagement
4. Reliable Cartridge Feeding Into Chamber

I use the Lee Lead Hardness Testing Kit to measure bullet hardness and I haven't noticed any difference in hardness between bullets as-cast and those which were sized. But there's quite a difference in hardness in the bullets I cast between those which were air-cooled and those which were water-dropped. I have also noticed when bullets are stored for a few months, the Brinell hardness continues to increase on the alloy. Perhaps someone educated in Chemistry and Metallurgy can chime in on this phenomenon to explain what happens here.

When sorting cast bullets, it is best to size and lube the bullets, then weight-sort them. Sorting the bullets by weight will usually have a considerable impact on the consistency of the loaded ammo. And weight-sorting the bullets with the lube in the grooves is more accurate, because the majority of the lube is carried out of the barrel with the bullet. Consistency = Accuracy.

Hope this helps.

See less See more
Hi all. I thought I would post a few vid's on reloadin just in case we have any body here either doin it or thinkin bout gettin into it, so here goes,,

First off we have to make the bullets, so here is how I do that part, we end up with these.

Then we have to resize em. (Had to put this one in too)

Then we have to flare the case mouth and load the powder.

Then, all that is left is to seat the bullets in and were ready to go and try em out.

This one shows how easy it is to de-prim the spent brass.

Now we come to cleanin the brass. On this one I talk to much,

This is the end of the cleanin part.

Next and last one will be priming the brass, if I ever find any primers..

Hope this helps some one as it was fun for the lil Wife and me to make.
See less See more
hobbles, thank you so much for showing how to do videos. You made so many things much clearer for me. Reading books just is not like videos. I'm a video person. Keep making those videos. I'm following in your foot steps. :yes:
Good luck on finding primers. Also, are you bare footed in the videos? :brow:
Mornin SamStafford,
Thanks for the feed back and yes I am bear foot. It was a hot day.

I don't know when we will get primers round here, my guy shop man keeps tellin me "maybe next week"
See less See more
Afternoon Boys,
I can't edit my post so this is the end of it..

Now we come to the primin part. And I guess that's it for re-loadin.

Hope this helps some one as it was fun for the lil Wife and me to make.

From the "I'll finish it tomorrow Ranc, Good Day

Great videos! 2 complaints though. You've wearing my reloading outfit and listening to my tunes.
I also noticed you cast using a glove on your left hand. I do the same thing. It is so much faster and easier on me ,and the mold, than using a stick to bang the sprue. Since I started doing that I don't think I could ever go back to whacking on my molds.

Sure wish I could make and post some educational videos for our members so they wouldn't have to learn everything the hard way like I did. Your providing a great service.
2TN Mules,
I wished you could post some too. I could learn a few things. I KNOW I made a few mistakes.
2TN Mules,
I wished you could post some too. I could learn a few things. I KNOW I made a few mistakes.
LOL Hobbles,

I've made more mistakes than I could list, Sure be nice to save others the pain.
very good video's. thanks alot
good info I been doing that for a while about 5 yrs. This part need tio be outside as it is bad smells etc. also as you pour the ww you need to keep mixing the pot to keep the alloy mixed or you have soft on in and hards on other ingots
61 - 80 of 90 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.