Just got my bull pup with holo scope. Sighted in scope , and it had kept zero through 100 rounds so far. Put in MCARBO guide rod and recoil spring and their seat spring for trigger.I doubt it will be hard to maintain zero with that arrangement.
Not if they do it right!
...........and I won't come in your mouth. So there is a legal warranty on this spring saying they'll provide you with a lawyer in case anything goes wrong, right?OK, I did a sear spring change. I got one of the new kits from Mcarbo. I went through the install and did a good cleaning and light oiling with some good light gun oil while it was apart. The trigger works great.
Some have commented on putting in too light a spring on the sear. I would agree with that 100%. The fire control system on a 995 is very low tech and simple. This carbine was designed to be dirt simple and inexpensive to produce to make it very affordable. I would not be in a hurry to start making modifications to the FCG trying to get a super light pull on the trigger. That said Mcarbo makes it clear that they tried lighter sear springs for the 995 and rejected them as they were not dependable enough. So, while they do provide a slightly lighter sear spring its not "too light" where it compromises the safe performance of the firearm. I will say I did the spring and the new recoil spring and SS guide rod and am very pleased, so far, with how it works. With my HTF stock (early model with adjuctable trigger) the trigger is now quite nice. No, its no match for one of my custom high dollar AR match triggers but its a very smooth, reasonable pull that I am very satisfied with. After I run a few hundred rounds through it I will report back if there is any problem with it. For now I find the set up to be quite nice for what it is and clearly an improvement over the original. (maybe a very good cleaning and the high end lube helped there also!
:lol:...........and I won't come in your mouth. So there is a legal warranty on this spring saying they'll provide you with a lawyer in case anything goes wrong, right?
I upgrade triggers, and do other things. Sorry you felt the need to type all that tripe over a stupid $5 spring. It's the interwebZ I have hot red heads coming and going everyday. They bring money, drugs and booze.:lol:
So glad to see people with a sense of humor.
I won't trouble you with listing my decades of firearms experience, training, military background, etc., etc, etc. Nor would you be aware of my educational background or working experience. Let's just say this is not my first rodeo. To paraphrase a well known commercial, "I know a thing or two because I've seen (and done) a thing or two."
You do not know me personally nor would you know how conservative and cautious I am with any work I do so I will just smile at your comment. The Mcarbo spring is a slight (about one third) reduction from the factory spring. The factory spring is heavy as it conservatively designed to cope with manufacturing variations, especially on new rifles before they are broken in and smoothed out.
My carbine is several years old. The parts are nice and smooth and work very well. A one-third reduction on this spring is not a lot for a machine that is broken in and has been gone over, closely inspected and all parts are moving smoothly.
Any time a firearm owner modifies a factory firearm there is always the chance of a problem. That said most engineers over design parts, especially on something like a firearm with the heavy attached liability that goes with a machine that can injure or kill. Mcarbo is very up front about this sear spring and how they rejected lighter designs as they would not insure safe operation.
I am fully qualified in automatic firearms. Any time I fire ANY semi-auto weapon I am aware an internal failure can result in the firearm "running away". (Been there, done that!). Any time I acquire or service any semi-auto firearm I always load only three rounds in the magazines until I am confident in the operation of the piece. I doubt many people follow that practice but then again, I have been down this road a few times before and know the territory.
I appreciate your comment and understand your concerns but I have no qualms about performing this change. I have owned and used 995's since they first came out many years ago. (Knew the distributor in Ohio and got one when they first hit the market. I am not new to this firearms by any means.) BTW, if you look at the 188 users that commented on this Mcarbo sear spring they are all 100% 5 star positive and there are no issues reported with it.
Have a good day and stay safe. Attempt no work or modifications to any machine that you are not qualified to work on or feel confident in doing.
Settle down trashy. He didn't do anything wrong and he obeyed all the rules. He listed his reasons and his reasoning. Let it go for now and see what happens later.I upgrade triggers, and do other things. Sorry you felt the need to type all that tripe over a stupid $5 spring. It's the interwebZ I have hot red heads coming and going everyday. They bring money, drugs and booze.
Everytime I see one of those, it makes me want to get one that much more. I have a 4595, too, and I do like how relatively quiet the round sounds from a longer barrel.Got my recent purchase, a used 4595 put into the HTA stock yesterday. Just have MBUIS on it for now, I ordered an optic which will be here in a few days. (Primary Arms 1x Cyclops Prism).
So my $150 beater truck gun is turning into an $800 one.
The HTA stock is great, much easier for this lefty to use the mag release, forward charging handle is easier to get some leverage on, and it balances and takes down nicely too.
My only gripe is the Hightower trigger. On my handgun triggers (S&W M&P and Glock) you have to pull near the bottom to depress the "dingus" to get it to fire.
On the HTA stocked HP, that will result in the gun not firing. So I have to remember when switching over to the Bullpup to keep my finger at the top of the trigger.
I wish Andy would have done the trigger differently.
Went shooting this morning to sight in the irons, as the PA Prism won't be here for a few more days. Shot at 20 yards to make sure it was on the paper, and after getting adjusted to hit center, moved out to 70 yards. (As far as our informal handgun range will allow).
The FMJs were hitting 4 to 5 inches low. (No one ever accused the .45 ACP as being flat shooting). But groups at that range were 3 inches.
Had a lot of fun shooting some steel spinners I put out. But that weird top pull trigger will take some getting used to. I have a Vickers sling I'm putting on this afternoon, and will get the barrel threaded when I get some time in the next few days.
I like how quiet this shoots. I had some earplugs in, but could have done without them.
My friend was shooting his 10.5' barrel AR pistol, and that thing was very loud, I had to grab my headphones when he started shooting. View attachment 67029 View attachment 67031
I have to agree on that. The activation zone is too narrow and easily prone to untintentional activation. I've never thought a trigger dingus was a good idea and this only reinforces that fact, be it Glock or this product. Personally, I would just go about disabling it if I knew my way around the kit a bit better.
Funny that exactly how I was getting ready to tell you how to do it. Except have you do a slight counter sink and cut the pin even shorter.Today I deactivated the dingus on my trigger. No more trying to fire and then realizing my finger was too low on the trigger.
Now when I pull the trigger, it will move back, even if my finger is in the middle or low down.
I think the addition of that helping to make the conversion safer was questionable.
To have to rely on it would assume that you are walking around with a round chambered and the other two safeties off. And if it were to keep some brush or something from letting the trigger go back ( again assuming both of the other safeties weren't being used), it would only help if the piece of branch, brush , etc. were pushing on the bottom of the trigger.
I held the dingus back, and drilled a hole the same size as a piece of roll pin I had.
Pin and drill bit were .085" in this case.
Too large of a hole for your pin and the pin might have trouble staying in. Too small of a hole and you'd risk cracking the plastic in the trigger.
I supported the back of the trigger when tapping in the roll pin, it went in easily.
I assumed the plastic would give a slight amount as the roll pin went in.
I did have to shorten the roll pin I used to match the width of the trigger.
Also today I threaded the barrel to 5/8" x 24 for an A2 flash hider I am getting from KAK Industries.
And I removed the knuckle guard. It helps the bullpup look "cool" but wasn't needed and I think with not having the knuckle guard, and the addition of a Tango Down vertical grip on the lower rail, will make it easier to get the gun into action faster and make it more comfortable to hold.
It looks like you flared the end of the pin a bit, too. Did you do that on the other side as well?I'll tell you why I didn't consider countersinking the roll pin.
The activation (dingus ) part of the trigger is maybe 1/4" thick, but the main part of the trigger is around 1/16" thick. Countersink the roll pin and it wouldn't be catching very much of the trigger.
I made sure to smooth the ends of the pin (and touch up blue) and that the ends were flush and not protruding.