Search threads started by Llawson aka Kirk. He had a thread here a while back about rust bluing. Worked very well for him. I haven't tried it.
Get a cold blue Kit: http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/12...-_-pf_ci_google-_-pf_ci_google-_-pf_ci_google If you take your time and follow the directions it comes out nice. Not as durable as Hot Bluing but a fraction of the cost. Just remember as with anything else prep is everything!
Here is an example, I re-blued my '34 Hex Mosin barrel (signs of wears as would be expected) but wanted it nice and dark for my little Archangel project. Before anyone says anything I love my Mosins and no Mosins where hurt in the making of this rifle!
Traditional fast Rust Bluing is supper supper easy and really hard to screw up. http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/forum/f280/if-i-can-rust-blue-you-can-too-302971/ Peace favor your sword, Kirk
Rust Bluing costs similar to Cold Bluing, is traditional, and easy to do. In fact, it follows most of the same "prep and work" rules as Cold Bluing with the exception that you do not have to get a nice polish on the surface to Rust Blue well the way you have to for Cold Blue. In fact, it is counter productive to get a deep polish first on bare metal that you're going to Rust Blue. Further, because Rust Bluing actually forms "Black Oxide," it is very durable. I posted this in the referenced thread: http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/forum/f280/if-i-can-rust-blue-you-can-too-302971/index4.html#40 And here's independent testing which shows Black Oxide to be far more durable than Duracoat and vastly more durable than Hot Caustic Bluing. Cerakote, to promote their product, did a [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ksj-XJzVQik"]Taber Abrasion Test on 6 common gun finishes[/ame], including (of course) their own. Here are the resulting numbers: Blueing - 500 Duracoat - 641 Parkerizing - 690 Gun-Kote - 744 Black Oxide - 3333 Cerakote - 6697 So, according to the Cerakote guys, Black Oxide is more than five times more durable than Duracoat and SIX AND TWO-THIRDS times more durable than Hot Caustic Bluing. Yeow! Cold Bluing has almost no abrasion resistance. Rust Bluing is simple, cheap, and superior in almost every way for the home hobiest to nearly every alternative and I can even make a case against some of the "superior" alternatives as well. Rust Bluing. Just do it. Peace favor your sword, Kirk
I cold blued my Beretta 84FS and 995 shroud.Came out very good and I carry the 84FS all the time and the bluing is still holding.
I have used a product called Van's Instant Gun Blue. Very easy to use and so far(several years later) has been very durable. http://www.vansgunblue.com/
Well, given that the slide is Zamak (zinc based vs iron based), I kinda doubt it. Honestly, I don't know for absolute certainty if it wouldn't blue,but my bet is that it won't.
I thought I had seen one in a customization thread somewhere that someone else had done. Maybe not. Guess I have to buy another gun.....oh no.
The slide? No, absolutely not. It won't blue for nuth'n. The barrel? Yes. All day long and twice on Sunday. Peace favor your sword, Kirk
Thanks. I can't see the barrel, so that's not important. The slide, well I wanted to do something with it, but I probably never will, it was just a thought. I like a nice blued gun, guess I'll have to buy one.
You could always strip the Powder Coating and replace it with some gun-specific "paint" like Duracoat, Cerakote, Gun-Kote, Aluma-Hyde, Moly Resin, Baking Lacquer, Metal-Coat Epoxy, or some other of the coatings. Some of them look like a decent flat-black Black Oxide. IMS, Duracoat and Cerakote are available in "stainless," "flat nickle," "titanium," and several other "metal" colors. Peace favor your sword, Kirk
