Is blueing dificult?

Discussion in 'Hi-Point Pistols' started by bluharley, Aug 6, 2014.

  1. bluharley

    bluharley Member

    I grew up with blued barrels, not liking the paint thing. Is that a difficult or expensive process?
     
  2. SWAGA

    SWAGA No longer broke... Lifetime Supporter

    Search threads started by Llawson aka Kirk.
    He had a thread here a while back about rust bluing.
    Worked very well for him.
    I haven't tried it.
     

  3. Visper

    Visper AK = Automatic Killer!?! Supporting Member

  4. Visper

    Visper AK = Automatic Killer!?! Supporting Member

    Here is an example, I re-blued my '34 Hex Mosin barrel (signs of wears as would be expected) but wanted it nice and dark for my little Archangel project.


    Before anyone says anything I love my Mosins and no Mosins where hurt in the making of this rifle!:D
     

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  5. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Last edited: Aug 7, 2014
  6. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Rust Bluing costs similar to Cold Bluing, is traditional, and easy to do. In fact, it follows most of the same "prep and work" rules as Cold Bluing with the exception that you do not have to get a nice polish on the surface to Rust Blue well the way you have to for Cold Blue. In fact, it is counter productive to get a deep polish first on bare metal that you're going to Rust Blue.

    Further, because Rust Bluing actually forms "Black Oxide," it is very durable. I posted this in the referenced thread: http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/forum/f280/if-i-can-rust-blue-you-can-too-302971/index4.html#40

    And here's independent testing which shows Black Oxide to be far more durable than Duracoat and vastly more durable than Hot Caustic Bluing.

    Cerakote, to promote their product, did a [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ksj-XJzVQik"]Taber Abrasion Test on 6 common gun finishes[/ame], including (of course) their own. Here are the resulting numbers:

    • Blueing - 500
    • Duracoat - 641
    • Parkerizing - 690
    • Gun-Kote - 744
    • Black Oxide - 3333
    • Cerakote - 6697

    So, according to the Cerakote guys, Black Oxide is more than five times more durable than Duracoat and SIX AND TWO-THIRDS times more durable than Hot Caustic Bluing.

    Yeow!​

    Cold Bluing has almost no abrasion resistance.

    Rust Bluing is simple, cheap, and superior in almost every way for the home hobiest to nearly every alternative and I can even make a case against some of the "superior" alternatives as well.

    Rust Bluing. Just do it. ;)

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  7. I cold blued my Beretta 84FS and 995 shroud.Came out very good and I carry the 84FS all the time and the bluing is still holding.
     

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  8. I have used a product called Van's Instant Gun Blue. Very easy to use and so far(several years later) has been very durable.

    http://www.vansgunblue.com/
     
  9. bluharley

    bluharley Member

    Thanks! That looks easy enough for me:rolleyes:
     
  10. Atomic_Ed

    Atomic_Ed Member

    377
    2
    Just to cross-check you, it is a ferrous based metal you plan to blue, right?
     
  11. bluharley

    bluharley Member

    the Hi-Point? That's blueable, isn't it? Once all the crap is gone of course.
     
  12. Atomic_Ed

    Atomic_Ed Member

    377
    2
    Well, given that the slide is Zamak (zinc based vs iron based), I kinda doubt it. Honestly, I don't know for absolute certainty if it wouldn't blue,but my bet is that it won't.
     
  13. bluharley

    bluharley Member

    I thought I had seen one in a customization thread somewhere that someone else had done. Maybe not. Guess I have to buy another gun.....oh no.
     
  14. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    The slide? No, absolutely not. It won't blue for nuth'n.

    The barrel? Yes. All day long and twice on Sunday.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  15. bluharley

    bluharley Member

    Thanks. I can't see the barrel, so that's not important. The slide, well I wanted to do something with it, but I probably never will, it was just a thought. I like a nice blued gun, guess I'll have to buy one.
     
  16. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    You could always strip the Powder Coating and replace it with some gun-specific "paint" like Duracoat, Cerakote, Gun-Kote, Aluma-Hyde, Moly Resin, Baking Lacquer, Metal-Coat Epoxy, or some other of the coatings.

    Some of them look like a decent flat-black Black Oxide. IMS, Duracoat and Cerakote are available in "stainless," "flat nickle," "titanium," and several other "metal" colors.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk