Lee Pro 1000 questions

Discussion in 'Reloading Room' started by histed, Mar 5, 2016.

  1. histed

    histed Supporting Member

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    My new Pro 1000 (9mm) came this week. Today I finally had time to mess with assembly and set up. I think I have it adjusted, after watching various YouTube videos, But here are a couple of questions for those familiar.

    First - primer feed. IF I keep the feeder full, need I do anything more? In set up I put 10 primers in the slide to check operation and, of course, they don't feed. Then I remembered that everyone says you have to keep the primer tray and chute pretty full. I also noticed that the little chute that carries the primers to the loader pulls apart rather easily. May I ASSume that a piece of electric tape will cure that problem?

    My second question is about adjusting the flaring/powder die. The instructions for this press are nearly non-existent, so I'm not sure if I have to take the thing apart, adjust the flare, then reassemble the top/powder drop or what. None of the videos I saw addressed this and the 50 second Lee video is nearly worthless. Fortunately, there's usually plenty of help here.

    Finally, eventually I want to use this for reloading .380 and .38/357. Some videos make it look very easy to change shell carriers, but others say just buy a separate loader for each caliber loaded. Call me Kirk - I'm cheap. How tough is it really to switch calibers? Do I need extra turrets and/or powder measures?
    I know I'll need the carriers.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Asher1

    Asher1 Member

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    All I did on the powder charger was put a case in there, rise the turrent up all the way and adjust that die down until it touched the case and then maybe 1/8" turn more... as long as you can get the bullet to rest on the case mouth, the seating die shouldn't have any issue... There is no need to over stretch your cases.

    I am set up to reload, .223, 9mm, 45acp, .380 auto, and soon 38/357 on my (1) Lee Pro1000.. I bought a collet for each set of dies, just so I don't have to reset the dies everytime (pop out the collet, switch shell plate, move powder disk, pop in new collet), usually everthing comes out right the first time and no need for fine tuning.

    If your doing larger powder charges, you will want to purchase the "Double Disk" kit.

    there is a short cut to changing out the shell plates, unscrew the powder charger, pull the collet off the top. place a 1/4" wrench or nut driver on the shaft, wedge a screw driver into one of the holes on the shell plate to keep it from moving, now unbolt the shell plate by turning the shaft with the wrench.

    I can change calibers in less then 15mins if I want, but I am usually not in a hurry when loading...
     

  3. histed

    histed Supporting Member

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    Got that part, no problem. My question is the lever for the powder measure - can I spin the measure after adjusting the die? My die needs to go down about 1/4" - maybe less - and that puts the lever for the measure on the side opposite the little chain hole, so I need to lock the die and spin the measure 1/2 a turn. It has to be possible, but I can't see it.
     
  4. greg_r

    greg_r Lifetime Supporter

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    I do not personally have one, but I have two friends that have them and I have loaded many rounds on them. One friend loves his. He has a dedicated press for each caliber he loads. They are set up and adjusted and they run fine.

    The other switches from caliber to caliber on his one press. Has a 3 hole turret and a shell plate for each caliber. He is always complaining. His do not run well until he gets them fine tuned. The switch to another caliber starts the process over again.

    I was only present once when he switched calibers. Went from 9mm to 223. Didn't take but 15 or 20 minutes to swap the calibers, probably another 30 to 45 minutes to get it running right.

    The primer tray seems to work well as long as you keep the chute full and a few primers in the tray. No need to tape the parts together, the tray and press attachment points will do that for you. You need to tap the tray from time to time to keep the primers flowing.

    Once you adjust the flaring die you should be able to leave it alone. Just enough flare to accept the bullet, and yes you should have a 3rd hole turret for each caliber you load, if for no other reason than simplicity. Without a dedicated turret, you basically need to set up your machine from scratch each time you change calibers. I would suggest a powder measure for each set also. Again, if for no other reason than simplicity. If you are going to use different powders and bullets, I guess it really doesn't matter, but settle on a specific bullet and powder and you only have to verify settings are correct when you switch calibers.
     
  5. Asher1

    Asher1 Member

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    Yes you can rotate the charger.. just loosen that textured ring above the actual die and rotate, that is how you remove the charger anyway..
     
  6. GoesBang

    GoesBang Supporting Member

    The swivel only comes on the Pro Auto Disk or as an aftermarket replacement.
     
  7. Asher1

    Asher1 Member

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    Mine came as a factory set-up when I bought my pro1000 kit. Maybe I got lucky..
     
  8. greg_r

    greg_r Lifetime Supporter

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    The Pro 1000 comes from the factory set up for a specific caliber. I still believe this is the best option. Decide what caliber you want and load for that one. My 2 cents. YMMV
     
  9. Asher1

    Asher1 Member

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    No, the LEE Pro1000 is NOT set up for a specific caliber any more then any other LEE product, the only difference is when you order the Press you select which lee dies you want to have included...

    Who ever told you this is 100% incorrect... I will say if you buy the 9mm press and want to load 45acp then you will have to order the large primer kit, and case feeder. But loading small cases all you have to do it change the shell plate and dies out...
     
  10. greg_r

    greg_r Lifetime Supporter

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    :confused::confused:, you just said the same thing?? Nobody told me, I opened the box at the LGS, the dies were set. The peripherals were not. But it was 80% ready to go.
     
  11. Asher1

    Asher1 Member

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    That quote was about the powder charger, my OEM powder charger allowed me to clock the auto charger any way I needed it to be...
     
  12. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

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    But I like calling you 'TED! :D
     
  13. histed

    histed Supporting Member

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    I'll always be Ted to you, my main Mole
    [​IMG]
     
  14. sarahsmom

    sarahsmom Supporting Member

    Will you be my uncle? I don't have any uncles anymore, and it seems you like to adopt.... :confused::)
     
  15. 60ratrod

    60ratrod STFU CARL! Member

    do yourself a favor and get the adjustable disk. makes a world of difference in getting the loads dialed in perfect. even works with the double disk kit, which i have yet to buy. i just went and got some longer screws and used some spacers i had. as for swapping calibers, i bought more turrets for each caliber and just change the shell plate. i found that i hated the primer feed, so i removed it and put my size/decapper in my single stage, and put my powder dies in the first spot, and put the factory crimper in the last spot, which required me to fab a link rod for resetting my auto disk.
     
  16. GoesBang

    GoesBang Supporting Member

  17. histed

    histed Supporting Member

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    Welcome to the family, Tracy. You're my ONLY niece. Course, that makes mOOnie your cousin,
    [​IMG]

    This is exactly what I was looking for. May I ASSume this replaces the chain thingy (which I already broke)?
     
  18. A few ideas........

    Hi.

    I use a Lee Pro 1000 to load both 9mm and .38 Special. I originally bought the press for 9mm but, bought the dies and shell plate carrier for the .38 Special recently.

    First, electrical tape is the way to go. I taped mine up at that rectangular block where the primer tray enters the feed ramp. As a habit, I refill the primer tray as soon as the tray is empty to avoid feed problems.

    TIP: straighten out a paper clip and put a right angle bend on the end end of it just wide enough to prevent primers from sliding down the feed ramp as you insert the primer tray. Insert the bent end of the paper clip in the tray opening as you insert in into the feeder and remove it as the feeder seats. This prevents and primers from spilling out.

    Second, the powder dispenser needs to be removed in order to properly adjust the flare.

    Lastly, I switched from the original 9mm to .38 Special and it's not really a big deal. It's pretty much the same thing as a complete tear down for cleaning which I do on a regular basis anyway.

    If you like to tinker, a single press should work fine.

    After having done several complete tear downs for cleaning, the trick to getting these to run right is in the setup. Take the extra time and care in that stage and, with proper care and lubrication, it should run nice and smooth for you.
     
  19. sarahsmom

    sarahsmom Supporting Member

    Thanks, Uncle 'Ted! Hey, Cousin Moonz! :)
     
  20. histed

    histed Supporting Member

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    Lap-53 Thanks for the info. I'm messing with it, being patient. Knew what I was getting into when I bought it, but once its adjusted, I think I'll like it. I already have 38 Spcl and .380 dies, so plates and extra shell holders are on "the list". The paperclip thing I saw on youtube, but the tray from my RCBS auto prime fits and it has a cut off that holds everything until you turn the cover. I'm hoping this works. Last thing I need to do is fix the autodisc and put the adjustable model on "the list" (dang thing just gets longer every day!)