Like I never even cleaned it...

Discussion in 'General Firearms Discussion' started by lklawson, Dec 14, 2015.

  1. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    So, just because I'm cheap and love to experiment... Some time back I picked up a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil to use as a penetrating oil on a stuck flashlight cap. Have 99.9% of the bottle still left. So, next time I was at Wal-Mart, I bought a bottle of Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W20.

    In my bedside safe resides my RADOM P64, 9x18 Makarov handgun. Last time I shot it, I cleaned it with Breakfree CLP. I can't remember for sure, but I may have added a tad of RIG gun grease to the rails. I often do.

    I had just cleaned some .22LR rifles and decided to run an experiment and clean the already-clean P64 with the MMO. I know other people do and sing its praises. Well, the short story is that MMO took crud out that Breakfree CLP left behind. The patches came out with black rings and smudges indicating it was taking out carbon fouling the CLP missed. 3-5 patches later, they came out clean. Then I lubed the whole thing with Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W20. Man that stuff is slick. Manually working the slide with snapcaps, I can say that the little gun never moved so smoothly & slickly with CLP.

    I did have to wipe down the exterior of the firearm a couple of times. Even very thinly wiped on, the Castrol was just too slick on the exterior. Couldn't get a good grip and came away with that motor oil feeling on my fingers and hands.

    MMO & Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W20 work just as well, or maybe better, than Ed's Red.

    I also picked up a gallon of K1 from the winter aisle at WM and 2 quarts each of deodorized Mineral Spirits and Dexron II ATF to make a few more batches of Ed's Red. :) That'll leave me with 2 quarts of K1 in reserve. I think I'll be giving out Ed's Red for Christmas gifts. :rofl:

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2015
  2. I'll PM you my mailing address, looking forward to some Ed's Red.

    On a serious side, whats the going rate of that Mystery stuff? And can you use it to Clean and lubricate? Or only clean?

    I have never used regular CLP. Only the Ballistol so I don't know if they are really comparable.
     

  3. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Trade ya for some venison sausage. ;)

    It was about $5 / quart at autozone. It can lube but I don't think it does a very good job. It's far too thin; thinner even that sewing machine oil or honing oil.

    CLP and Ballistol are roughly comparable. I think that CLP does a slightly better job of cleaning but I believe that Ballistol does a little bit better at lubing and protecting. However, the differences between Breakfree CLP and Ballistol for performing those three jobs are minimal and either one will get you where you need to go handily. I like the smell of Ballistol better and it's veggie based & "environmentally friendly" if that matters to you.

    The biggest advantage of MMO & 5w20 is price. A 12oz. aerosol can of Breakfree CLP is somewhere arount $9-$15 (depending). So the MMO+Castrol is around 1/2 the price. IMS, Ballistol is a little bit pricier than Breakfree CLP.

    I do, quite honestly, like both Ballistol and Breakfree CLP. They're good products and I won't berate anyone who chooses to use them.

    This was just my Cheapskate's side coming through.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  4. I barely know you, and you want to take the food right out of my kids mouths! :rofl:


    I have always stuck with the traditional cleaning oils. Mainly because I didn't want to mess with entire quarts of stuff or mixing. I just don't go through it that fast. Also I love the smell of Hoppe's
     
  5. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Which is perfectly reasonable. :)

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
  6. OldOutlaw

    OldOutlaw Supporting Member

    Last Spring I saw a Military Surplus store about 60 miles from here. Had a few hours to kill so I stopped in. Lot of true surplus in that place of all types.
    What I almost missed in cases on the floor was cans of Military Bore cleaner. All that day were 8 oz cans. Easy to use. So, I bought a bunch of them.

    Took out a few Mausers that I had cleaned to where patches were white after. Some were cleaned with Marvel and some with CLP. Holy crap! First bore cleaner patch showed some black alright. In each gun. So, soaked them good and let set over night. Next day, all kinds of I suppose carbon came out. This Military stuff was made in 1974. Owner said most guys did not buy it because of the hazard warnings on the can. Appears to be same bore cleaner we used in the Army on the M1.
    It was less than $2.per can. A month later I bought two cases of this stuff. 48 more cans. My military gun collector friends love the stuff on old rifles. Many well over 100 years old and they thought were clean. This stuff does seem to loosen the carbon.
     
  7. GoesBang

    GoesBang Supporting Member

    Hoppe's aroma is true Americana!
     
  8. HP/C9/45ACP

    HP/C9/45ACP Member

    847
    119
    Wish I had a can or two of it to use on my Mosins, would probably be good to use after shooting corrosive surplus ammo.
     
  9. cicpup

    cicpup Resident PITA Supporting Member

    15,944
    5,822
    Vermont
    You wouldn't think much of it to look at it but that wondrous stuff will actually unstick a seized engine.

    And you forgot the best part. It smells like bubblegum.
     
  10. undeRGRound

    undeRGRound ROLL wif Da MOLE! Supporting Member

    25,550
    1,703
    INDY
    Great Info, Kirk!
    I foresee another appendix for the "Cheapskate's Guide" :rofl:
     
  11. Hermitt

    Hermitt Hey! Get Off My Lawn! Member

    I use MMO as a fuel additive to my bike to help counter the effects of the corn oil in the gas.....
     
  12. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    Marvel works great to free sticking valves on airplane motors too. My formula , based on Ed's red, kind of failed me. It's made with 75% ATF and 25% motor oil with acetone used to thin it. It seems to work better than Hopps at freeing up heavy lead, so I quit using Hopps.

    Don't remember why, but during one of my periodic rust preventive cleanings I ran some Hopps down one of my bores and got a lot of copper my ATF based stuff missed. Being nearly out of Hopps I ran and bought some of their copper removal formula, and cleaned all my guns. I didn't get a lot of copper except in three of my really old God knows how well they'd been cared for guns. But I got a boat load of copper out of them. The Yugo Mauser that couldn't hit the broad side of a barn at 100 yards suddenly could shoot minute of deer. So now I keep my ATF stuff for lead and Hopps for jacketed.
     
  13. My dad had a body shop years ago. Anytime he came across a rusted bolt that he couldn't break loose he soaked it with MMO and worked on something else for awhile. Half an hour later and 9 times out of 10 it came right off.
     
  14. moona11

    moona11 King of you Monkeys Lifetime Supporter

    Acetone evaporates so add more. Ammonia is whats good for removing Copper.
    2 parts - 10% ammonia,
    1 part - standard household "sudsy" ammonia (optional)
    1 part - Ivory liquid dishwashing detergent (It has been reported that "Formula 409" can also be used though the resulting mixture is probably thinner.)
     
  15. OldOutlaw

    OldOutlaw Supporting Member

    Marvel was used in WWII aircraft engines to help lube and prevent seizing up.
    Over on GB's a couple of the guys are Bush Pilots and mechanics in Alaska.
    They make sure they never run out of Marvel for their engines. FWIW
     
  16. lklawson

    lklawson Staff Member

    Supposedly an old WWI copper fouling removal recipe is 1 part 10% ammonia and 1 part pure water.

    Household "brass cleaner" should work too. It usually contains ammonia and mild abrasives which will wash and scrub the copper fouling without damaging the steel.

    Peace favor your sword,
    Kirk
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2015
  17. duster066

    duster066 Supporting Member

    Yup my Ed's Red ain't Ed's Red. I just threw together some stuff I had to see how it would work. It does carbon and lead ok, but for copper it needs work.