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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a posting on my experience with the conversion kit for iron sights by Longshot Manufacturing (LSM).

I bought the full rail from LSM and had good times shooting withna 3-9x vortex scope. One thing that bugged me was that the scope was long enough that you have to remove it to get at the fore end screw by LSM. Tired of constantly re zeroing my scope after every cleaning, decided to go back to factory iron sights using the conversion kit. Final decision was I was designating this as my iron sight gun. Every other rifle of mine is scoped.

Package shipped with 2 sets of standoffs and hex screws of varying lengths. Also came with just written instructions but no photo or diagram. After a few attempts and looking at LSM website, this is my best guess on installstion. YMMV, this is not the official way just my attempt.

The aluminum set of standoffs are taller than the black set. The written instructions says black is for older rails and how to identify if yours is older. Anyways I used the aluminum and my observations were:

1) only 4 screws secure the iron sight to the rail and receiver shroud, which has the two metal plates underneath. By comparison to the factory weaver rail, which has 8 total screw points, I have some reservations on how secure this is. Of course the factory has also 4 screws securing rail to receiver and 4 more screws securing iron sight to the rail.

2) since only 4 screws are needed it took a bit of matching up. Two screws seem to be same length so were installed at the rear hole and the second hole from front side. A slightly longer screw was for front hole and an even longer one for the elevation adjustment. YMMV, dont know if this is right combo and just verified by checking underneath the receiver to make sure the screw ends did not come down too far and will be hit by the bolt block. Make sure all screws engage the 2 metal plates!

Have not shot it yet, but overall its pretty nice setup, just like the original! Lol. The LSM rail is a bit higher than the factory so need to adjust the height elevation of front sight. Only criticism is that for 17 dollars for a set of screws they could have provided one labelled diagram. My opinion is the strength of the rail is a bit weaker than before, but if you just want to run irons, this is the only way for picatinny top rails.
 

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You clean your gun too often. Manual says use a bore brush every few hundred rounds, only disassemble ever 1,500 or so. I also spray some plastic safe scrubber in the action and blow it out with air.

That would make re-zeroing less of a chore.;)
 

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I agree with you 100% on everything. Yes, it probably is a weaker install for the top rail. It would be much better if we just had additional and separate mounting holes in the rails for just the rear sight, but then it would swisscheese the rail and leave a bunch of unused holes that some buyers would be unhappy with. Yes, it is a little confusing as to which screws to use where. The best way to do the install is exactly the way that you did it....remove the receiver shroud and actually look to make sure of proper and full engagement of the nut plate threads. Most of the customers that have bought these kits have actually preferred to do the install WITHOUT removing the receiver shroud, which is why the install instructions become more confusing than they really should be. Doing the install without removing the shroud is a bit tricky when you are trying to keep those steel nut plates from falling off and into the gun. This whole conversion kit setup is not the best thing in the world, but if you really want to retain use of your factory rear sight on one of our top rails, it does work. For what the kit consists of, the price should be way lower too, but the issues come from the fact that we only sell a small amount of these things and the shipping costs and handling time are what drive the pricing for it. At some point, we really want to just include these things for free along with the purchase of any of our top rails. We try to be perfect, but we aren't. But we do try.
BTW, thank you very much for the review. Good or bad, customer feedback is very important to us. Most of our best ideas and solutions have come directly from our customers.
j.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have to clean often because of living in a hot tropical environment. Also been through lots of cheap ammo like wolf and tula. We usually shoot several different caliber guns but often everyone takes a few turns shooting the hipoint. Thanks
 

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ROLL wif Da MOLE!
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Jerry @ LSM has proven to be very open to customer feedback!
 

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Or you could just use quick detach scope rings. In my experiance if i put the scope back in the same slots on the rail ,i do not have to re zero the scope.Also works great so you can switch from a red dot to a scope and back again. I always fire a few shell just to make sure the zero is still good but so far mine has always been right on. Well actually that was on my AR but should be good on the HP too especially with longshots aluminum rail.
 
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