Lubing bullets

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by Drilln, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. While I sit and wait (and wait and wait, I can be so impatient some times) for my bullet molds and furnance, I got to thinking, would lubing jacketed bullets with liquiod alox have a benificial result? Has anyone tried it? I was thinking that a light coat would help reduce copper fouling at least. OR would it possibly raise pressures into the danger zone?

    Just a thought.

    I might just try it after I gather a little more info..........
  2. Silicon Wolverine

    Silicon Wolverine Well-Known Member

    No it doesnt make any difference. Th only reason you lube lead bullets is to reduce lead fouling because lead is soft. Copper jackets are arder than lead and the lube would be gone within the first 1/2 inch or so of movement. The only coating thts proven benificial on jacketed bullets is moly coating. There was a good article on this subject in shooting times (i think) about four months ago.


  3. Thanks for the reply, it was just a thought. maybe I will look at moly coating while the concept is on my mind.
  4. Silicon Wolverine

    Silicon Wolverine Well-Known Member

    midwayusa has a kit, and i think brownells does as well. you need a case tumbler too.

  5. Don't moly coat bullets. Check for a test he did with the corrosive properties of molybdenum disulfite on a chrome-moly barrel. It has been found to corrode stainless as well. If you want to get into moly, find a bore coating that has been isolated to prevent formation of sulfuric acid in the bore.
  6. Uraijit

    Uraijit Guest

    ...or just clean your guns after shooting ammunition with corrosive properties.
  7. If you want to break out the bore paste every time you go out shooting, by all means. Moly bonds to the metal on a molecular level, so you actually need to abrade it off as opposed to corrosive ammo that can just be wiped clean.
  8. Lubricating jacketed bullets have been played around with by different bullet manufacturers. I remember when Barnes used to sell a line of their X bullets with a blue coating which was baked onto the bullet. It supposedly helped reduce the copper fouling and increased velocity, while lowering operating pressures. Winchester also use their patented "Lubaloy" black coating on their Combined Technology bullets for the same reasons. The idea apparently never made it in the sales department.

    Truth is, ALL barrels will foul sooner or later, and ALL barrels need cleaned periodically. There will never be any such thing as a barrel which never need cleaning...except for maybe .22 barrels and pellet guns. ;)

    I've always been told by old-time benchrest shooters at my range that you should never clean the barrel on a .22 rifle. You can clean the chamber, or even put a light coat of oil in the barrel if you're afraid of it rusting, but once the barrel is cleaned, it takes many fouling shots to get the groups on a rimfire to "settle in" again. I experimented myself on that matter one time by giving my 10/22 a thorough cleaning, then shot several groups. Indeed, the first several groups had quite a few fliers, but after about a box of ammo, the groups tightened right up. I never cleaned the barrel again. That was over 15 years ago now.

    To this day, my 10/22 (all factory except for aftermarket hammer and recoil buffer) will consistently print 1/2" groups at 50 yards using cheap Remington HP bulk ammo.

    I think I got off-track on this topic, but thought you might find this information useful. ;)