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How many lumens does my rifle light need?
Lumens For Rifle Light
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732 Posts
Depends on how far you need to light up. Inside the home, probably < 500. Taking care of business outside, maybe 1000+
YMMV
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22,833 Posts
1000-1200 lights up coyote eyes 300yds out.
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28,425 Posts
Maybe. Maybe not.
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28,425 Posts
OK, you got my funny answer. I gave it because the question is, at best, incomplete. Lumens is nice but it doesn't give the whole picture of what a light can do.
Lumens, candella, spill, throw, focus, and color temperature all make a huge difference in how well any light will function in any given application. And that's all after you decide the "mission objectives" of your light. As has been pointed out, home defense is a different mission than hunting coyotes and a light which functions well for one will be sub-optimal for the other.
Just asking about lumens is, at best, a superficial view of the subject. Lumens is like horsepower. Racers and car makers used to say, "Horsepower sells cars but torque wins the race."
If you don't know those answers, then you want all the lumens. Light the entire 2-mile radius like it is day and you'll be able to see what you need.
Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
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22,833 Posts
No maybe about it. Rolling down the interstate I can easily light up mile markers 1/10mi apart in heavy humidity.
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28,425 Posts
Nope. Maybe or maybe not is the right answer. If your 1K lumens flashy has a ton of spill and a close (or no) focus then your light may attenuate before it gets out to where you want it. There's a difference between a spotlight and an area fill. If the flashy has a color-temperature that doesn't travel as well in a given environment, then, again, it might attenuate. There's a reason that fog lamps are a different color than head lamps.
Now maybe YOUR specific flashy can do it but it's definitely much more than just a function of lumens alone. Horsepower sells cars...
Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
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22,833 Posts
Back when they were $18 delivered with mounting bracket, charger I didn't give a damn about all that crap. For a while you could get them with the focus too. Last I checked they were North of $30.
I'm not spending $125+ for a flashlight unless it comes with a green eyed redhead and a big bank account.
I'm not spending $125+ for a flashlight unless it comes with a green eyed redhead and a big bank account.
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22,833 Posts
I don't need anything that costs stupid money for a Chinese flashlight. Use your tape switch. It isn't rocket surgery. Olight doesn't always get the best reviews either. Anything Sootch praises, and others say it's a turd? Well, it's a turd.None.... why give away your position. Don't let em see ya coming Run Nods.
If your gonna run a light why not get one with adjustable lumens like the Olight Baldr
Meant to be kinda tongue and cheek...about the Nods. And not a specific plug for Olight just one with variable lumens .
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6,598 Posts
The correct answer is: what is the intended purpose of the light? Is it for inside the home, outside for the backyard, or for hunting 'yotes and other varmints such as hogs at night and at distance?
I have an older Insight M3 that only puts out 90 lumens, but it has adjustable focus head for wide defused light or with a twist, a narrow, brighter focused beam. Uses a rocker switch for either momentary or full on. I have it mounted on my bedside AR for indoor use. This model light is discontinued and I paid around $90 for it back in the early 2000's. It's a great light and durable. I believe the newer model is a M6, but Insight makes other models too.
I have a cheaper Chinese light w/built in spring loaded rail attachment that puts out 400 lumens and have it mounted on a lil single shot 410 for farm varmints, but it doesn't have adjustable focus. Only has a simple push button switch, which is what I wanted. Actually made of aluminum and is quite durable, but uses the odd A2 batteries that can sometimes be hard to find. Found it on Amazon for around $29.
Most new model lights now use a CREE bulb, which is durable and long life. What makes a good light is how well the surrounding focusing mirror is chromed or polished to throw the light's beam, while keeping light in sharp focus with just enough side cast to see things off on the edges and not make the light seem dim. It also needs good power source to help throw that beam, if distance is wanted. If it has adjustable focus from a soft, but large wide cast, it can be useful in small rooms to not blind the user, or refocus to see that varmint by the barn 200yds away if needed.
Cheaper lights can say they're 900 lumens, while a well made light can do the same, but have a better, brighter light with only using 350 lumens and both using same type batteries, but here's where the money is well spent. The better made light can/will also have a better/more reliable switch and circuitry for longivity.
I like Fenix, Surefire, Streamlight and Insight for a few very good weapons lights.
Olight is making a name for themselves, but they also seem to be hit and miss on a few of their models. Most of their problem seems to be from their power switch having contact failures, while the rest of light seems well made.
I have a cheaper Chinese light w/built in spring loaded rail attachment that puts out 400 lumens and have it mounted on a lil single shot 410 for farm varmints, but it doesn't have adjustable focus. Only has a simple push button switch, which is what I wanted. Actually made of aluminum and is quite durable, but uses the odd A2 batteries that can sometimes be hard to find. Found it on Amazon for around $29.
Most new model lights now use a CREE bulb, which is durable and long life. What makes a good light is how well the surrounding focusing mirror is chromed or polished to throw the light's beam, while keeping light in sharp focus with just enough side cast to see things off on the edges and not make the light seem dim. It also needs good power source to help throw that beam, if distance is wanted. If it has adjustable focus from a soft, but large wide cast, it can be useful in small rooms to not blind the user, or refocus to see that varmint by the barn 200yds away if needed.
Cheaper lights can say they're 900 lumens, while a well made light can do the same, but have a better, brighter light with only using 350 lumens and both using same type batteries, but here's where the money is well spent. The better made light can/will also have a better/more reliable switch and circuitry for longivity.
I like Fenix, Surefire, Streamlight and Insight for a few very good weapons lights.
Olight is making a name for themselves, but they also seem to be hit and miss on a few of their models. Most of their problem seems to be from their power switch having contact failures, while the rest of light seems well made.
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27,802 Posts
THISNone.... why give away your position. Don't let em see ya coming Run Nods
r
I have a total of 4 stealth weapon lights, for patrol duty. Ranging from 5 to 10 lumens. Plenty to clear a room or see a trail.
2 each, 5lm and 2 each, 10lm. The 10's also have the redeye led and the 5's also have a 300lm setting, but that is only manually selected during the ON mode, it always comes on in 5lm mode for stealth. Also has a magnetic base for EDC use. These need a flashlight adapter for a rifle, but the 10lm with redeye is a pic rail mount. Good stuft
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37,345 Posts
If you turn on ANY white light in the dark....that ain’t stealth, no matter how few lumens.
Red or green at low lumens is better, but still very visible, the real advantage to them is they don’t totally destroy your night vision; so you use it momentarily, then turn it off...
This thread got me thinking, and I ordered a “Tacticon Battle Torch V1” 400 lumens pistol light. It’s cheap, I’ll be seeing if I like the idea at all, and if it lasts, good, if it doesn’t, I’ll know more about what I really want if I end up spending more money.
Red or green at low lumens is better, but still very visible, the real advantage to them is they don’t totally destroy your night vision; so you use it momentarily, then turn it off...
This thread got me thinking, and I ordered a “Tacticon Battle Torch V1” 400 lumens pistol light. It’s cheap, I’ll be seeing if I like the idea at all, and if it lasts, good, if it doesn’t, I’ll know more about what I really want if I end up spending more money.
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37,345 Posts
Not sure what his answers are, but a rifle in 5.56 is, according to studies, less prone to overpenetration than even 9 mm. They were cheaper than many handguns for a while. Also, they tend to be easier to put a light and a red dot on. They have 30 round mags as a base line, with more capacity available. They tend to more effective at stopping threats, And finally, most people are more accurate with a rifle.
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25,921 Posts
It's a relatively simple concept. I was trained to clear houses with a tactical shotgun and an M16A2 with a giant ass 20" barrel. A lot of people were trained to clear buildings with rifles and shotguns. It's a well known and well practiced tactic.
I had an old rancher from Texas "scold" me during a conversation about handgun and structure clearing tactics way back when and he basically said that a handgun is just a means to get back to your rifle.
I would have no issues clearing my house with any of my long guns, and I keep several on hand as well as the G20 on my nightstand and the New Vaquero hanging from the gun belt on the head board.
If some unfortunate individual were to be brave enough to play "fuck around and find out" at my house, they might catch; a 10mm, 45 colt, 5.56, x39, .308, or even a 12ga with a 6" tube extension and 12- round bandolier sling.
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