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Discussion in 'Hi-Point Carbines' started by DevilDog58, Sep 29, 2020.
It was rhetorical...
I know, however that thread had some good pics and you reminded me of it.
Once a round fires, I have no problems with the following rounds. It's only jamming the first round. I am used to firing a carbine at the shooting range beginning with the action opened and locked back (it's a safety requirement of the range). Then I insert the mag and send the bolt home by pulling it out of the locked position and letting go. Maybe I should send the bolt home first, load a mag, then use the charging handle to try and load a round. I don't think I tried that. How do you guys usually shoot these carbines?
Actually, after I read the 1st page of that thread, it is EXACTLY the same problem I'm having. He's just better at describing it. Did he ever get it figured out or do I have to read the entire thread to find out?
Its got some good pics that’s why I linked to it again.
I appreciate your, and everyone else's help on here with this issue. I guess I'll just keep working on it and see if I can get it figured out. I have some new rounds coming, so the first thing I'll see is if it's just the 2 types of rounds I've tried so far. I wish I had access to land that I could shoot on at will, like I did when I lived in Colorado. But, it could be a break-in type deal. Before I dick around with the mags, I'd have a gunsmith check it out just to make sure there are no feeding ramp/extractor/anything else you can think of type of problems.
Like I said, I'm no gunsmith but I've been shooting since I was a kid, starting with a pellet gun on cottonmouths and rattlers in Florida, which is where I grew up. Then I graduated to a .22 and on to M-16, shotguns, 1911s, .357 mags, etc. The snake shooting served me well in Marine Corps boot camp and weapon qual throughout my 16 year career (medically retired due to back injuries).
Again, thanks a lot for the help and when I get it figured out, even if I have to send it back to Hi Point, I'll come back and let you guys know. One of my biggest problems is my back, which just doesn't allow me to stand at the range for hours like I could when I was a young man.
I’m still saying don’t bother with a gunsmith.
That’s like taking a Yugo to a Chevy dealership. They’ll probably know less about a HiPoint then we do.
The feedramp is fixed and so is the barrel. Lock the breech back and take a pic of the feedramp. Better yet take the gun apart to check the firing pin then check the feedramp. Doesn’t need to be mirror smooth you’re just looking for deep gouges.
The firing pin doubles as ejector.
You should be able to check the extractor yourself.
I’m no gunsmith but from what I’ve read the great majority of gun problems are magazine problems.
OK, I'll check that stuff out. Like I said, I'm going to play around with it (empty since the firing pin is part of the extractor) and see how the mags sit in the well, if I hear a click (because I can't hear anything at the range) and I will checkout the points you've brought up. Then if everything looks copecetic, I'll try the new ammo I have coming.
Snap caps are a good investment and you can play with the gun to your heart's content in the privacy of your home.
And not to distract from the excellent advice you are getting from our resident experts, but I will add that I find the Hi-Point mags a bit on the picky side in terms of loading technique. I find I have the best results with them when I use the very inexpensive Hi-Point mag loader https://hi-pointfirearms.net/product/speed-loader/ as I seem better able to consistently get the proper nose up presentation with each cartridge. Just a thought...
Have you tried this one yet? If the mag catch is out of spec the mag rides low and the round smacks into the feed ramp. But I doubt that's it. Going on all the info you've given try this one. With a round in the chamber and the bolt fully closed, insert a full mag and fire it. Did it cycle properly?
Thanks. That's a great suggestion. I think I'll get some.
And you read in the owner's Manual no 147gr rounds as they can jam due to the overall length.
Yes, I've been using 115 grain. Always use a lower grain for practice and usually a +P for self-defense but thanks for pointing that out as I completely missed it in the manual. Boy, I wish that would have been the problem. Then it would be solved! I
I had trouble with my 995 TS when after not liking the recoil stock, I jammed some rubber blocks in the recoil to prevent the cheek chafe! I got a lot of fail to feeds, nose up. After removing the rubbers and buying new stock mags, the FTFs are mostly gone, but I don't trust it to be reliable! Think I'll buy a Ruger!
So tell us what other silly things you did to your Hi-Point? It's probably not the gun. It's what you did wrong.
The crew here can probably diagnose your problems. Get it up and running. If there really is a problem they can't help you with Hi-Point will fix it for free.
Did you take it upon yourself to grind, or polish something because Goober on Youtube told you he did it?
Just polished the feed ramp. But it seems the gun had less ftf's once the stock was changed from the solid wood to the tactical stock. When I spoke to the engineer at the factory, he stated that any changes made to the way the the gun recoils could affect feed! So be careful how tightly you hold the gun?? The magazine gap is critical and the steel is hardened. so, difficult to adjust the gap correctly, better off just to buy new factory mags!
What is this solid wood stock that you speak of? I want one for my 995.
Solid stock is the first version of the gun!
Post a picture of it please