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possible 4595 Bullpup

6K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  cballs 
#1 ·
So I am in the market for a 45 cal carbine. vector, hk, beretta are all out too much money for ten round capacity (thanks Hawaii)... no sub2k cuz no .45 cal (to match 1911). So that brings me to the 4595.

This quote from "Paint jobs, mods, etc..."
http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.co...ds-favorite-carbine-pics-268615/index142.html





has got me thinking. I would love to brainstorm with others about this and come up with a solution. and also maybe shaving off some of the heavy 7lbs this carbine weighs in at.
 
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#2 ·
I think the first picture would be the more realistic way of approaching the build. Leave the grip, mold it into the stock, and re-use the buttstock from the ts. It could just be welded back on using some plastic welding techniques.

the trigger could be hid by welding or screwing on plates over the trigger guard. and the actuator to press the trig could run through the existing stock.
 
#5 · (Edited)
does anyone have any pics of the trigger group? Seer. hammer, etc...

Also is the barrel free-floating or is it supported throughout the fore-end?

Can it be free floating? In other words is the barrel attached in such a way that the fore-end could be eliminated altogether?

Where is the serial number, we couldn't lose that...
 
#10 ·
how about this...

that look awesome. looks like youd have to be really good at molding/ welding plastics to be able to pull this off. the hp carbines are great guns to try this with considering their low price tag.
 
#11 ·
ill get you picks of the insides tomorrow if nobody has by then. my camera got borrowed.
 
#12 ·
that'd be awesome, thanks. could you snap a photo inside of the for-end where the barrel would be at?

also how long is the buttstock to the back of the upper metal housing? It's only possible to shave off 6 inches since a rifle must be over all length of 26 inches.
 
#14 ·
that'd be awesome, thanks. could you snap a photo inside of the for-end where the barrel would be at?

also how long is the buttstock to the back of the upper metal housing? It's only possible to shave off 6 inches since a rifle must be over all length of 26 inches.
in hope that you might come up with something ill get you the pics and measurements tomorrow. if you need any other measurements just post. i only have a simple tape measure to use right now all my more accurate measuring tools are being borrowed.

if i spend my time helping you i expect you to come up with something and post pics on this forum;):D
 
#16 ·
heres your pics

length from the end of the recoil pad to the back of the metal housing is 10.5"

if you need more pics or i didnt get what you needed in these pics or their not clear enough just ask. this is the best camera i have tho.

as to if the barrel is free floating the only thing i can see that holds the barrel is a plastic ring that holds it to the action as shown in the last couple pics. other than that it just sit in that groove in the stock
 

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#17 ·
heres a clearer pic of the trigger mech
 

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#19 ·
thanks for the pics, they are good. It looks as though we could only shorten the stock to the middle of the cheek rest. Still 6 inches though. The trigger is simple and interesting, to say the least.

as far as the barrel goes in the fore-end, do those little rings/ribs on the inside touch the barrel, or does the barrel float through?
 
#21 ·
Looks you're going to need the Brass Stacker right side charging handle, if you shoot right handed your going to loose your cheek and a bunch of teeth, and if you shoot it left handed, you'll have a mouth full of brass.
 
#23 ·
thanks for the pics, they are good. It looks as though we could only shorten the stock to the middle of the cheek rest. Still 6 inches though. The trigger is simple and interesting, to say the least.

as far as the barrel goes in the fore-end, do those little rings/ribs on the inside touch the barrel, or does the barrel float through?
the barrel touches the rings/ribs but just barely. there isnt any pressure being put on it.
 
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