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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did some testing for getting ready for making primer plates.

I stopped into Ace hardware & bought some numbered drill bits. I had some aluminum sheet/plate in my scrap bin. Just a kwik/dirty job on drill press. For the cup plate:

#16 = 0.177 for the small pistol/rifle cup. I did just one hole to learn with.
#13 = 0.213 for the large pistol/rifle cup. I did a kwik 6 hole to learn more.

The #16 worked nice for all the small cups that I had(Win, CCI, Rem). These are fired ones.
The #13 worked nice for the large pistol cups, but was little tight for Remington large rifle - worked but tight.

So far so good. I also made some of the other needed items to test.

Somethings learned/tested:

That putting the cup into the plate & then removing the anvil is a very good/fast method.
When the cups are in the plate, I was able to remove the dent without the other cup jumping out.
That "folding" 2 matching plates together like a book does work.

Tested some other things like using the plate for pressing in the anvil & punching toy caps. More work in this area.

This weekend I'm going to make some real plates( 20-25 hole) on a CNC mill. I don't know if I'll be able to get punches done this weekend.

IMO, even if one just made a single hole or small plate for removing the anvil & dent it'd be worth the price of the drill bit.

One possibility, drill a single line of 10 holes. Remove the anvil. Remove the dent. Slide an index card under the plate. Fill & pack one cup. Slide the index card so that it doesn't cover the bottom of that cup. Lift up the index card & plate. Move the filled cup away. Set the index card & plate back down & fill the next cup. This would be safer than filling & packing all 10 at once.
 

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I did some testing for getting ready for making primer plates.

I stopped into Ace hardware & bought some numbered drill bits. I had some aluminum sheet/plate in my scrap bin. Just a kwik/dirty job on drill press. For the cup plate:

#16 = 0.177 for the small pistol/rifle cup. I did just one hole to learn with.
#13 = 0.213 for the large pistol/rifle cup. I did a kwik 6 hole to learn more.

The #16 worked nice for all the small cups that I had(Win, CCI, Rem). These are fired ones.
The #13 worked nice for the large pistol cups, but was little tight for Remington large rifle - worked but tight.

So far so good. I also made some of the other needed items to test.

Somethings learned/tested:

That putting the cup into the plate & then removing the anvil is a very good/fast method.
When the cups are in the plate, I was able to remove the dent without the other cup jumping out.
That "folding" 2 matching plates together like a book does work.

Tested some other things like using the plate for pressing in the anvil & punching toy caps. More work in this area.

This weekend I'm going to make some real plates( 20-25 hole) on a CNC mill. I don't know if I'll be able to get punches done this weekend.

IMO, even if one just made a single hole or small plate for removing the anvil & dent it'd be worth the price of the drill bit.

One possibility, drill a single line of 10 holes. Remove the anvil. Remove the dent. Slide an index card under the plate. Fill & pack one cup. Slide the index card so that it doesn't cover the bottom of that cup. Lift up the index card & plate. Move the filled cup away. Set the index card & plate back down & fill the next cup. This would be safer than filling & packing all 10 at once.
Fantastic stuff. I have visited a few of other gun forums lately to share what I have been doing. A few go hmmm. A few get excited, and most throw tomatoes! If we pull of demonstrating that we can make primers that are provably consistent and can be made with some speed we at Hi Point forums are going to be, infamous, at the very least!
 

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keep up the good work guys!

I hope u'll post pics for those of us who are visual-learners. At least after ya feel ya have a comfortable system worked-out.

Good on ya!
 

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Ya I have noticed many of them go ... Hi Point has a forum... well waht do ya exspect... anyway I am working on a paste primer load...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fantastic stuff. I have visited a few of other gun forums lately to share what I have been doing. A few go hmmm. A few get excited, and most throw tomatoes! If we pull of demonstrating that we can make primers that are provably consistent and can be made with some speed we at Hi Point forums are going to be, infamous, at the very least!
Of course in a safe manner also.

IMO, it should also be easily duplicated at a low cost using . That is why I went to ACE to try numbered drill bit & not getting 'proper' sized reamers. Also, built in versatility for any pressing that is done. I'll personally likely use computer controlled equipment and/or presses that have gages on them. But hand, reloading press or arbor press would be more to the desires of most.

I think that an arbor press may be the easiest to make protective shielding for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
keep up the good work guys!

I hope u'll post pics for those of us who are visual-learners. At least after ya feel ya have a comfortable system worked-out.

Good on ya!
I learn kwiker with the eyes also. One way or the other there will be pictures. But with my standard Ebay disclaimer:

If you don't like the pictures, I'll try and take better. But, if I was any good a picture taking I'd be taking pictures of beautiful women instead of these part.
 

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...anyway I am working on a paste primer load...
Oooo, ahhh... I'm not just practicing for tonight's fireworks, I'm ANXIOUS to hear more... :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya I have noticed many of them go ... Hi Point has a forum... well waht do ya exspect... anyway I am working on a paste primer load...
Great!!! I'll pm you a link of a book on making primers. Like most books there are typos. You may have this, but in case you don't.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Went slow yesterday on the plates. Mainly the x axis controller board went south & looked to be no kwik way to bring it back. So, I'd had to replace it with the z axis board & now have to do the z axis manually.

Good news is that I was able to test the program & verify the plate size, etc. Went well enough that I'll make fixtures today. Also, today I'm going to change the spacing so that 'Legend of the Wild West' caps can be directly punched into the cups. The made in China caps aren't evenly spaced enough to do this for them.

FWIW, I can't find the battery charger for my camera. So, I don't know if I can get pics today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Correction. It is a #3 for large pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did find the battery charger. I plain site of course.

Went good today(except the cap thing) & should be able to make several sets tomorrow. Also, found that a drill press works good for removing the dent with a single punch. A fairly fast way of doing it.
 

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Did find the battery charger. I plain site of course.

Went good today(except the cap thing) & should be able to make several sets tomorrow. Also, found that a drill press works good for removing the dent with a single punch. A fairly fast way of doing it.
I'm really excited about your work. this is getting good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Figuring out the size to make the primer mix plate is a little slow. Had to crack the books a little. One interesting thing that if learned, National Ballistics Lab during WW2, was that NOT having enough mix tend to cause higher pressures than having a little to much in. Data was for 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 & full cup.

Any way, I'll be making up a couple different mixes see how much they weigh in different sized holes & thicknesses. The chems came today. Gotta work tomorrow so can't get started until tomorrow nite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Last nite I was able to try A&O's #4 mix, but I subed barium nitrate for the lead nitrate. I did it dry using just a cup plate. Worked GREAT!!!! I was able to weight the amt that it used. It was about 125% of a normal store bought primer. I think that with a wet mix the same amount as store bought would be fine.

The mix does not seem to be very sensitive. I couldn't get to go off except when in a primer & using the gun, short of putting a flame to it. That said, I would not rule out there being some moisture in the mix.

The mix is potassium chlorate, barium nitrate, sulfur, & aluminum powder. The current price of these chems for 1,000 primers would be $0.55, not figuring a scrap factor. The reason I didn't use lead nitrate is because it is expensive & has better uses.

I'll try a few more mixes that are similar to this. A&O's #2, Ron Brown's, FA-42, etc. If they work similarly, I'll set a size for the mix plate. Personally, with this mix I wouldn't be afraid to dry mix 25 at a time. Then a mix plate isn't needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FWIW, tonite I'll write up what the mixes are,etc. Then anyone here who wants to know can be pm'ed. IMO, this is faster & cheaper than matches. Cheaper than toy caps, but may not be faster(depending on the process used).

Cost per 1,000:

A&O #4 $0.56
A&O #2 $0.62
RB's $0.36 plus cost of frictionizer($0.0 on up)
FA-42 $0.73
 

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perotter is the man!
=1!

count me in on that PM please!

this is some fascinating stuff. I never took a chemistry course in my life, but I'm a good cook, so if you can work your way through the gibberish and form a recipe then I'm your fan for life! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
this is some fascinating stuff. I never took a chemistry course in my life, but I'm a good cook, so if you can work your way through the gibberish and form a recipe then I'm your fan for life! :D
These are recipes much more than they are chemistry. These that I'm working with now are only the simple ones that have been proven to work. Also for the most part, they are ones that the ingredients are available to everyone & under almost any conditions. The only time that one would need to get into chemistry would be if there was a need find a substitute. Me replacing the lead nitrate took a little chem knowledge, but very little.

For A&O's #4, for example & using say a .32 ACP case to measure volume. And call it 'case'.

1. Measure 1 level case of A & place on mixing surface
2. Measure 2 level cases of B & mix well with A
3. Measure 1 level case of C & mix well with A & B
4. Measure 2 level case of D & mix well with A & B & C
5. When the above is completed, reload your primers

Kind of like 'kitchen' work, right? But, most non-corrosive get a little more complex. Those that aren't, it is hard to get the chems. I'll get to them latter.

All I'm doing is relating & testing the work that others have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tonite I tested & documented a modified version of Ron Browns mix. Talk about simple & nice to work with. His was potassium chlorate, sulfur & sandpaper grit. After measuring out the PC & S, I was going to start sanding sand paper.

The $ sign went up plus the thought of the time/work in it. Then the light went on. What about that bag of sandblasting sand I have? What the h---, only a few pennies in chem to lose.

Worked great!!! And is even cheaper per thousand. For a std small pistol it looks like $0.18 per thousand, excluding the sand. About $0.24 per thousand for large pistol. Should be about $0.30 per thousand for large rifle.

It is a little more sensitive than A&O's #4. But still I won't be afraid to dry load it. Using proper safety of course. I'm starting to think that drying load normal primer mixes might be safe when done on a limited scale.

I was able to get to go off with a hammer. Got bigger hammer & tried the A&O #4 again. It went off also. Right after work tomorrow, I'm going to try a couple of other sensitivity tests.
 

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Tonite I tested & documented a modified version of Ron Browns mix. Talk about simple & nice to work with. His was potassium chlorate, sulfur & sandpaper grit. After measuring out the PC & S, I was going to start sanding sand paper.

The $ sign went up plus the thought of the time/work in it. Then the light went on. What about that bag of sandblasting sand I have? What the h---, only a few pennies in chem to lose.

Worked great!!! And is even cheaper per thousand. For a std small pistol it looks like $0.18 per thousand, excluding the sand. About $0.24 per thousand for large pistol. Should be about $0.30 per thousand for large rifle.

It is a little more sensitive than A&O's #4. But still I won't be afraid to dry load it. Using proper safety of course. I'm starting to think that drying load normal primer mixes might be safe when done on a limited scale.

I was able to get to go off with a hammer. Got bigger hammer & tried the A&O #4 again. It went off also. Right after work tomorrow, I'm going to try a couple of other sensitivity tests.
I read about somebody using sand paper grit, instead of ground glass, and I wondered if it isn't possible just to buy extra fine sand. What do you think of this?
http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=66542
 
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