[Guest]

Hi folks,
My 995 arrived today at my FFL.
I stopped by to do my paperwork, am expecting another firearm tomorrow, so I did not pick my carbine up today.(Will get 'em both tomorrow)
Anyway, my FFL guy says to me "Is this suppose to be new or used"?
I turn around, and he has just pulled my 995 out of the shipping box, so I can look it over.

But, the finish on the receiver looks almost "brownish" or something....kinda' looks dirty, or maybe like it sat in a dark room somewhere for a long time.
It has all the stickers all over it, and the parts still have to be put on(bolt, etc.), but it is really a "mottled" finish....

Is this normal for a 995 carbine?

Would appreciate any opinions on this---I have NOT accepted the transfer yet...so, I COULD send it back if this is not normal.Would hate to have to do that, unless it IS something wrong.
Sure makes for a kinda' crude looking gun though....
Thanks for any help!
Pud

 

[Guest]

Id venture to say it is new and the discoloring is normal. Mine looks the same way and i have handled new ones that looked exactly as mine which was built in 1998!

I know it can be un nerving, but it is new, normal and ok.

 

[Guest]

Cool...

Hey, Thanks Dennis!
Appreciate the info....It was just one of those things I wasn't expecting, as I have never seen another Hi-point Carbine "up close & personal" before!
I'm going on all the good reports I have heard on this board, and other places about the 995....I was hoping it wasn't a finish that had went bad or something.
Thanks again for the help!!!
Pud

 

[unclerob]

Pud,
Mine was brand new in the box and looked the exact same way and I asked the exact same question. "Is this thing used?"

That is the way they look most of the time.

 

[Guest]

The finish on my 4095 wasnt the greatest, but not the worst either.

 

[JasonJ]

after a bit of handling.. my barrel and receiver shroud looked the same.. its just a lack of super quality finish on the metal.. a bit of black paint and you'll be fine.

 

[Guest]

If you paint the reciever cover or the barrel or the muzzle brake, which ALL look tarnished, make sure you use a High temp paint. You can use a "Grill" as in BBQ grill paint that you can get at home depot or any simular place, or Automotive "exhaust header" paint that you can get at most auto part stores.

Or there is always Duracoat!!

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys!

Thanks to all!

I feel MUCH better now! :wink:

Pud

 

[Guest]

And don't let the gun dealer be a "gun snob!" When yo take that litle toy to the range and it goes "Bang", and those groups are as tight as a... well we won't go there there might be kids here, but you will smile and giggle like a school boy cause you are haven't sooo much fun!

 

[ronco52]

If you paint the reciever cover or the barrel or the muzzle brake, which ALL look tarnished, make sure you use a High temp paint. You can use a "Grill" as in BBQ grill paint that you can get at home depot or any simular place, or Automotive "exhaust header" paint that you can get at most auto part stores.

Or there is always Duracoat!!

Chef, good post I was looking for this advice. I know from post's on the forum that the compensator's may be an odd color tint, so I was thinking of painting mine, plus the laser holder and the laser body at least the rear of the tube past the controls, I doubt I could match the gun properly so I will make them look like a matched set attached to it.
Have you used the high temp Auto header paint, how does it stand up to wear and tear, cleaning?
I know the Cameo paints hold up well if I want to use dk green or tan, but they do not come in the color I want as far as i know, possibly Dark red or burgundy if it's available. So the auto store may be an option.
What the best way to prep the surface of the metal parts, the plastic parts if I paint them?
Thanks for any info.
Ronco

 

[Guest]

I haven't used header paint on any guns as of yet but will be soon. i'd ust a fine steel wool to break the finish then a tack cloth to clean it then paint it i light coats. It should hold up well, exhaust headers get hotter for a lnger period of time then any of our 995's will ever think of.

As for the plactic, get a "self etching" primer, you can pick it up at any craft or hobby store. Then use a paint that is for plastics or polymers. If you are thinking of a Tu-tone paint scheme, masking is very important an this type of paint will "run' in the grains and follow the lines. Mask tight and make sure you have a good primered surface. Apply the prime and sand each coat as they dry.

You can alos clear coat the finish , but I'd use a satin and not a gloss finish.

 

[Guest]

I'm a little late, but I think you're ok.

 

[Huggy]

I've tried the BBQ paint a few times, and it always chips and flakes no matter how I clean and prep... looks nice, just not very tough.
I've read here, and on the AK forum about guys using Duplicolor engine paint. It needs baking, but is supposed to be pretty tough.

 

[waltham41]

I used some hi temp engine paint on a piece on one of the carbines, and found the best results were to paint it, let it dry for an hour and then put it in the oven at around 175 for a couple of hours. Looks good and no problems with chipping or anything so far.

 

[ronco52]

Thanks Guys for the response, I had thought about using Krylon Fusion paint for Plastic and metal that you can buy at Wally World, but figured the Auto Header paint would stand up better to any thing I can do to it.
Now I got to check out an acceptable 995 accent color scheme at the Auto store.
Ronco