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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So about 7 months back i spontaneously purchased a Ruger Security 9. Academy had one on sale for 299.00 and i had a 75.00 gift certificate so I bought it just because.

Since purchased, it has been unfired, bran new, & sitting in a wire frame pistol rack in a cheap snap on safe with a dehumidifier and i keep a silica can in there. I cracked open the safe yesterday after work and found the gun in this awesome condition







So before I declare the finish on these guns are complete crap . . . i do want to at least be transparent in saying that MAYBE i wiped it down with oil before storing it and left too much on the slide. However, all i remember doing is taking it out of the factory box and dropping it in the safe. I havent even really handled it since i havent been shooting since the start of COVID

Anyway... i cleaned it up as best i can. I can still see some oxidation on it, but not nearly as bad.

Either way. I have other guns and rifles in that same case and i have no issues with oxidation or the finish failing on them, including guns that have the finish worn down to the metal in some spots due to dropping them in and out of holsters.

Think this one will be sent off to the shop to get a good cerakote
 

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Sorry for your experience. :(

I will say I carry a Security Nine under less than ideal conditions and have not experienced any problems with corrosion and I don't wipe the poor thing down like I should, so perhaps you just got a specimen with flawed bluing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry for your experience. :(

I will say I carry a Security Nine under less than ideal conditions and have not experienced any problems with corrosion and I don't wipe the poor thing down like I should, so perhaps you just got a specimen with flawed bluing?
it happens, i just like to share my experiences.

I also have a much cheaper ruger EC9 that is being stored in much worst conditions then the security 9 is. So far, no issues with that one.
 

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Since purchased, it has been unfired, bran new, & sitting in a wire frame pistol rack in a cheap snap on safe
Was it the kind that has the "carpet" fabric lining? Turns out that most safe manufacturers use a glue that contains formaldehyde which when it flashes to gas really promotes rust. Even better, the expensive gun safes (like the one I have :( ) are internally lined with sheetrock as a fire retardant. Apparently gypsum usually contains microbial life that feeds off of it which secretes sulfuric acid (the stuff that traditional slow rust blue uses to rust the steel).

That said, according to Ruger, the finish on the Security 9 is "Black Oxide." IOW, standard gun blue, which will rust, but is better than bare metal. It's a cost saving measure and, frankly, is the traditional finish for guns. But it's not terrific; it's just OK. Many guns today, as I'm sure you know, use some form of ferritic nitrocarburizing. It's more expensive but it works much better than almost anything else, except maybe Hard Chrome (as opposed to shiny chrome plating), and probably not even that. :)

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was it the kind that has the "carpet" fabric lining? Turns out that most safe manufacturers use a glue that contains formaldehyde which when it flashes to gas really promotes rust. Even better, the expensive gun safes (like the one I have :( ) are internally lined with sheetrock as a fire retardant. Apparently gypsum usually contains microbial life that feeds off of it which secretes sulfuric acid (the stuff that traditional slow rust blue uses to rust the steel).

That said, according to Ruger, the finish on the Security 9 is "Black Oxide." IOW, standard gun blue, which will rust, but is better than bare metal. It's a cost saving measure and, frankly, is the traditional finish for guns. But it's not terrific; it's just OK. Many guns today, as I'm sure you know, use some form of ferritic nitrocarburizing. It's more expensive but it works much better than almost anything else, except maybe Hard Chrome (as opposed to shiny chrome plating), and probably not even that. :)

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
the safe is just a little all metal cheap-o like this one.

It sits in my front room. I keep my house pretty cold, usually 69-71 degrees. It has a dehumidifier and a small silica can in the bottom where i stash a little bit of self defense rounds down there

 

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I bought a Stack On cabinet just like yours years ago before I finally bought a bona fide safe. It worked well enough for its purposes.

As for your little finish issue on the Security 9, I wouldn't worry too much about that minor bit of oxidation. I have a Remington 870, which is about 30 years old with a 28" barrel I rarely use. That barrel had been known to get a little brown sitting on the shelf from time to time when. That's even after I coated it with CLP. Wiping it down with an oiled cloth made it black again.

The way I stopped it from happening was I put it into one of those cylicone treated wool gun socks. You might consider cutting one of those gun socks down to put your pistol into when you put the thing away.
 

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I have both sizes of the Security 9 along with both calibers of the LCPII. No issues with the finish, but i keep mine wiped down with EEZOX. The finish on the LCPII and Security 9 is not as durable as that on the Americon Pistol or the P series. It does take more care.
 

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I can't see the picture of your gun, but sorry you are having the problem. I have a Security 9 that I've had for a few years and haven't had a problem. But, I do carry semi regularly and wipe it down often. I also have an LCP and LC9 and no issues with either of those.
 

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I was an early adopter of the Security 9 and carry it in leather, darn near every day, since I bought it and even with the routine excessive sweat, I haven't had any issues with the finish on mine. Ruger is using a less expensive steel alloy on the slides of the Security 9, I wonder if that odd oxidation pattern is related to material choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I cleaned it, and it looks a bit better. I can still see the oxidation under the bluing when i hold it up at the light.
Ill take some more pics so yall can see the before and after.

i also took a harder look at my ec9 and honestly, i kind of see the same thing happening although not nearly as bad as the security 9. Again, barely gets handled and stored in a dry hidden gun shelf that i made myself. No foam or anything in there. This guns were purchased not far apart from each other. . . .other guns stored in the same place are not having these issues.
 

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I cleaned it, and it looks a bit better. I can still see the oxidation under the bluing when i hold it up at the light.
Here's a trick that WWII Armorers did. Take the slide completely apart, down to its components. Just the slide. No springs, pins, etc. Degrease it (use non-chlorinated degreaser or brake cleaning spray). Then submerge it in boiling water (distilled water) for 3 minutes. Take it out, dry it well, oil it, put it all back together.

This converts the red rust to black oxide, the same as the bluing already on it. This is how WWII armorers dealt with rust that got "beneath" the parkerizing.

Or you could take it somewhere and pay someone to put one of the epoxy coatings on it such as duracoat, aluma-hyde, ceracoat, or one of the others.

I've done both. The coatings look nice but seem to wear off. The boil bluing (rust bluing) is at least as durable as the original finish and looks "classy" but will still wear (just like any other gun blue).


Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
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the safe is just a little all metal cheap-o like this one.

It sits in my front room. I keep my house pretty cold, usually 69-71 degrees. It has a dehumidifier and a small silica can in the bottom where i stash a little bit of self defense rounds down there

I'm working towards buying my first house at 29, once that happens the next purchase I want to make after the house is set up, is a nice safe. I don't have much to put in it but just enough lol yours looks nice even if it is cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's a trick that WWII Armorers did. Take the slide completely apart, down to its components. Just the slide. No springs, pins, etc. Degrease it (use non-chlorinated degreaser or brake cleaning spray). Then submerge it in boiling water (distilled water) for 3 minutes. Take it out, dry it well, oil it, put it all back together.

This converts the red rust to black oxide, the same as the bluing already on it. This is how WWII armorers dealt with rust that got "beneath" the parkerizing.

Or you could take it somewhere and pay someone to put one of the epoxy coatings on it such as duracoat, aluma-hyde, ceracoat, or one of the others.

I've done both. The coatings look nice but seem to wear off. The boil bluing (rust bluing) is at least as durable as the original finish and looks "classy" but will still wear (just like any other gun blue).


Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
I will give this a try .... and really, if i screw it up too bad, i can just have it cerakoted lol

thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
and just for comparisons sake, this is the best i was able to clean it up just using the cleaners i have on hand . . .





And here is the EC9s which appears to be starting to do the same. . . again, a bran new gun, never shot, and i know the only oils this has on it is from the factory



 

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and just for comparisons sake, this is the best i was able to clean it up just using the cleaners i have on hand . . .





And here is the EC9s which appears to be starting to do the same. . . again, a bran new gun, never shot, and i know the only oils this has on it is from the factory



I noticed your screen name(FL in it) and the pic you posted of your safe(looks like it is located in a garage). You wouldn’t happen to have your safe in the garage or a non climate controlled area of your home would you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I noticed your screen name(FL in it) and the pic you posted of your safe(looks like it is located in a garage). You wouldn’t happen to have your safe in the garage or a non climate controlled area of your home would you?
The pic i posted isnt my actual safe, but its the same safe i have.

My safe is located in a bedroom. My house stays cold ( 69-70 degrees ). Inside the safe I have a dehumidifier installed, and a silica can at the bottom where i store a little bit of self defense rounds
 
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