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S&W MP 15 556

771 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  ajole
Hi everyone, it has been a minute since I've visited these forums.

I just recently bought a S&W MP15 556, and quickly learned that I have spent way too many years only shooting .22s and my 4095. So, there is a little bit of a learning curve for me, and I remembered there many helpful people here and a few of them are even knowledgeable.

I have an ex-military friend that is going to get me up to speed on the care and feeding of the rifle, when he becomes available next month.

What I would like to learn about is muzzle breaks. The rifle doesn't really kick at all. It just sorta bounces. I know practice and improving my shooting technique will counter a lot of that.

My first question is will a muzzle break actually reduce that "bounce" any? If so, what am I looking for and what should I stay away from?

I am also curious about suppressors but a little intimidated by the red tape. Can anyone shed any light on how painful the Federal Colonoscopy is, what the hidden costs are and how long that process takes?

I am thoroughly enjoying the rifle and will get to be as competent with it as I am with my other weapons. But I am also aware that I have entered new territory with the AR format, which to me is just an excuse to learn new and exciting things.

Thanks in advance
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There's a couple ways to help reduce the recoil bounce. One is to install a heavier H2 or H3 Buffer to help slow down the BCG a tad to not give that harsh rearward/forward motion slam. The negative of going with too heavy of a Buffer is, if you like a certain(cheap) ammo, the rifle might not, or be able to fully extract, eject and insert the next round as the Buffer will short stroke. You want the rounds to be somewhere around the 3 to 5 o'clock mark to know it will run well when using decent ammos. If you shoot reloads(your own or known, well made reloads), Tula, Federal or other possible underpowered type ammo, you need to try to determine if you can use it reliabily.

Another is to install a new "adjustable gas" gas block and carbine gas tube. This gives you the best, as you won't need to change out the factory Buffer, and you can adjust to your liking with the type of ammo you use. Cheap underpowered ammos you open it up and harsher more powerful ammo, you dial the gas block down until you get short strokes, bad ejects, weak extraction, then open it up just a tad.

With an adjustable gas block system, you will need to use a free float hand guard system, along with the correct hand guard barrel nut system and change out the Delta ring.

You can also install a AK barrel muzzle(the top front is angle cut to help with muzzle rise), or install a "forward direction" barrel compensator. This type of muzzle device redirects bullet gas towards the target instead of upwards like the regular AR15's flash hider. This type of compensator pushes the gun into your shoulder, while not truly stopping barrel rise, but it does focus the sound away from the ears. Some compensators have both drilled holes forward while some holes are drilled to be towards the top to help with muzzle rise. Barrel muzzle device shims may be required if one can't get the correct clocking to work when tightening the device down.
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