Some Nice Reloading Component Images...

Discussion in 'Vintage Topic Archive (Sept - 2009)' started by wizard93, Jan 30, 2008.

  1. I decided to do some shooting with my camera today instead. These are some of the bullets I cast using wheelweights for the lead.



    ...And the Mold to cast these bullets with...


    Since I have all of these 9mm bullets to load, I have to have the brass to load it in...


    ...In case I haven't told you the best bullets for breaking in a 995 carbine, how 'bout a picture of some Remington JHP bullets I moly-coated myself...


  2. Kelotravolski

    Kelotravolski Member

    sexy... you make me want to reload....

  3. Strangerous

    Strangerous Member

    That's some fine looking cast bullets, and some AMAZING looking moly-coated ones as well.
  4. Reloading is very fun for me. I enjoy loading my ammo as much as I do shooting it. There's also that certain pride you feel when you print a nice tight group on paper and saying to yourself, "I made those rounds."

    Here's another pic of some 9mm rounds...


    ...If 9mm is not your thing, then perhaps you like a little Dirty Harry handcannon delight. 44 Magnum loaded with 310 grain gas-checked flat nose bullets cast from my Lee 2-cavity mold and lubed with Jake's purple ceresin lube and scarlet lube. It's a handful when loaded with a max load of Lil'Gun powder and shot from a Ruger Super Blackhawk, but very accurate.

  5. I have been thinking about getting into casting myself. Those are some nice looking loads. I need to first find a source of tire weights before I get started. I don't know about the molly coat stuff. Don't have much experience with it, only shot about 100 or so rounds of it once and it left my feed ramp molly coated, wasn't happy about that.
  6. What are the procedures for casting your own bullets? Don't you have to do a post resize of the round before you can load it into the brass?
  7. Lee advertises their Tumble Lube bullet molds as "can usually be loaded without sizing". I rarely find that to be the case. With the tumble lube bullets, I lubricate them with the Lee Liquid Alox lube and allow the lube to dry. Then I run them through the press-mounted Lee bullet sizer of the appropriate size, then lube them again. On the conventional cast bullet designs, I run them through my RCBS LAM II bullet sizer/lubricator which uses different caliber sizers and top punches for different shapes and sizes of bullets. It may sound like a lot of work, but the process actually goes pretty quick. I can't recall the bullets per hour I can size/lubricate, but I know it's faster than running the turret press. A wild guess would be about 500 bullets per hour with the RCBS, and maybe a little faster with the Lee sizer, not counting the drying time of the Alox lube. I find that sizing all my bullets makes everything more consistent, which is necessary for optimum accuracy. It also ensures that all loaded rounds will fit in the firearm I'm loading for. If you're applying gas checks, it takes a couple extra seconds to place one on the base of the bullet before running it through the sizer. Both the Lee and RCBS sizers can seat gas checks.

    As far as leading goes, most bullet lubes work reasonably well in preventing leading. The main fault lies in the lead hardness/working pressure relationship. Naturally, a lower pressure cartridge like the 38 special or 45 ACP will benefit from a softer lead, like the Lyman #2 alloy. For high pressure loads like the 9mm and 40 S&W, 357 Magnum, 44 Magnum, etc., a harder alloy is required.

    Leading can happen in a gun in two main ways. The first way is when loading a high pressure cartridge with a bullet made from too soft of an alloy. This causes excess distortion (obturation) of the bullet in the bore, and also stripping of lead by the rifling when the tensile strength of the bullet is overcome by the rotational force of the rifling. Another leading problem is when a relatively mild pressure cartridge is loaded with a cast bullet of too hard of an alloy. This leading condition happens when the bullet is released into the barrel, but the pressure of the cartridge prevents proper obturation of the bullet to completely fill the bore. This causes "gas cutting", allowing gases from the burning powder to leak past the bullet, burning the lead and depositing the molten lead into the barrel of the gun.

    Inadequate lubrication of the bullet can also contribute to barrel leading. There are many theories around the exact effectiveness of the bullet lube, but one may be that it helps prevent leading especially with lead bullet bases. Cast bullets with a copper gas check seated on the base have shown to practically eliminate leading in a bore. This may be due to the exposure of the lead base to the burning gases when fired. The bullet lube is taken along the bullet and leaves a trace residue in the bore which prevents the vaporized lead from the base of the bullet to adhere to the bore lining. Although this may be near impossible to test in real life, it definitely makes sense in theory.

    Hope this helps.

  8. Do they have molds to make your own hollow points? If so, I am prolly gonna get into casting my own bullets, especially for the .50 AE, 9mm, 40 S&W and .45ACP... Whatever way I can futher cut the costs of my shooting habits, and still support my hobbies, I need to do it.
  9. Lee doesn't make any hollow point molds. There are a few made by other brands like Lyman and RCBS, and maybe Saeco. The only mold I can find for the .50 AE is made by RCBS Here's a link to MidwayUSA's listing of the mold.

    It's a two-cavity steel mold and MidwayUSA has it for $66.99. It may sound like a lot of money, but imagine how fast it will pay for itself considering $67 would barely buy 200 jacketed bullets for the same caliber. And all the bullets made after the first 200 will be free.

    Hollow-point bullets are only produced in single-cavity molds and can be tedious work. Stick with the basic designs for loading economical blasting ammo and save the hollow-point jacketed bullets for self-defense. That's what I do.

    Trust me, bullet casting is fun. If you are handy enough to build a dog house and have a fair amount of common sense, you can do it. And you will be surprised when you see that your own cast bullets can be more accurate than factory ammo!

    My biggest recommendation for anyone interested in bullet casting is to get the Lee Modern Reloading Second Edition load manual. It has a large section designated just for bullet casting, using the Lee casting equipment. Many people say that the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is also good, but I haven't seen that one.

  10. Wizard them bullets look fantastic !! Maybe you could give me some tips on moly coating ?? :roll:
  11. I was moly-coating bullets back when it was the magical "snake oil" of the beginning of the 21st century. Nowadays, even the big-time benchrest shooters have exhausted their research and decided that moly-coating isn't beneficial and no longer use it. There's gonna still be a few people who swear by the stuff, perhaps they finally found the secret formula to making the stuff work to their advantage. I had bought the moly-coating kit from MidwayUSA back in 2000 or so. MidwayUSA doesn't even carry the kit anymore, if that tells you anything.
    It came with the moly and two tumbler bowls for my MidwayUSA 1292 tumbler. They specify using one bowl for unexposed lead bullets and one bowl for exposed lead bullets. The bullets are washed in a soapy water solution and dried to remove all swaging lube before moly-coating to ensure maximum adhesion. When you run the tumbler with the bullets inside, make darn sure you have the tumbler located so that you don't have to listen to it. It is incredibly LOUD!!! The container of moly included with the kit contains enough moly for literally thousands of bullets. As you can see, the results look nice. But I think the appearance is the only thing that the moly has going for it. I've tried the moly-coated bullets in a few of my target rifles and haven't found any advantage in accuracy or barrel fouling. I've tried every trick out there, including "fouling shots", using MidwayUSA Moly Bore-Prep, etc.

    There's still a few companies putting out moly-coated bullets, but nothing like it was there for a while.

    Just don't expect any miracle accuracy and performance from moly bullets if you decide to do your own.

  12. Can cast bullets be dipped in copper?
  13. I've never seen anyone sell the equipment necessary for copper plating bullets, but I'm sure that if one had enough money, they can buy the manufacturing equipment needed to make the copper plated bullets like those sold by Berry's or Ranier Bullets.

    A cast bullet using an attached copper gas check base is capable of very high velocity. While non-gas-checked bullets can normally be pushed to around 1400 fps, gas-checked bullets can be pushed to higher velocities. Many rifle shooters have reported pushing their gas-checked cast rifle bullets over 2500 fps without leading. This would require a very hard alloy and a rifle barrel in excellent condition with no pitting. This also calls for a quality hard bullet lube like this one sold here...

    And due to cast bullets being softer than copper, barrel wear is greatly reduced because there is less friction against the barrel.

    With a properly lubed and sized bullet, the Hi-Point pistols and carbines shouldn't have any leading problems even at 40 S&W velocities and pressures.