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Ammo shortage and stupid prices got you down??? Have you been saving your brass forever and have a pile you do not know what do?? Super Virgil has the answer. RELOAD!!!!

Reloading is not as complicated as many would have believe. If you pay attention to detail, follow direction, use good load data, and get advice from experienced reloaders, you too can easily make safe and reliable ammunition that is cheaper, and more accurate than rounds bought in a store. In this guide, I am going to give you my recommendation on a press, dies, and some equipment to get you going as cheaply as possible. When I started reloading, I was able to pay for all of my equipment in under 1500 rounds of 9mm. It pays even quicker if you load bigger calibers like.45 acp or rifle.

1. Press kit
I stared out with a lee 50th annivsery kit .(part # 90050) Included in this kit is most of the things you need to get started. It has a single stage press, which is the least complicated to operate. The great thing about this press is the breech lock bushing which allow you to set up your dies once allowing you to remove the bushing to change out your dies. Order an extra set of bushings if you use a 4 dies set as your kit comes with only 3.(part#90060 for 2) Included is a powder measure to dispense gunpowder and scale to verify your charges are the correct amount. It has your priming tools which allow you to re prime your cases right on the press. This can be used for both rifle and pistol, large and small primers. Your kit has a primer pocket cleaner, a case lock stud and cutter tool, and a case deburring tool. I do not use the cutting or deburring tool much, as once pistol brass has stretched to the point it needs cut, it is usually junk anyways. If you do rifle, you will probably need to trim your brass, and you will need a case length gauge for the caliber you will be loading. And as an added bonus some resizing lube for rifle cases
2. Dies
Again I stuck with lee, and for my pistol needs and purchased the deluxe pistol dies set. These are carbide dies. Carbide dies are highly recommended for straight walled pistol cases, because you do not have to lube your cases before resizing the brass. For rifle and pistol rounds such as .357 sig, you will get steel dies and will need to be lubed, or else the brass may becomes stuck in the die. The set has the resizing die, to put cases back to factory specs and to deprime the case. The next die is the expanding and charging die. This flares the case so it will easily accept a bullet. It also allows you to put your powder measure in the die and directly drop your powder in the case. The next die you use is the bullet seating die to get the bullets pressed into the case, and finally the factory crimp die. This die is a post seating sizing die that crimps the bullet in place, and keeps your brass uniform so it will easily chamber in all guns. I highly recommend this die no matter what brand of die you choose. The lee set also comes with a shell holder for your caliber, where as most other sets do not.

3. Digital Calipers
You need to measure the overall length of your cases after you have seated the bullet. Too long a bullet and the round will not chamber or go into a magazine. If you seat the bullet too deep, you can have excessive pressure which can result in a Ka Boom. Don't worry about trying to figure it out. Your load data will include the proper minimum and maximum case overall length for the caliber you will be loading. These can be bought from harbor freight for about fifteen dollars.

4. Load Data
You need good load data to help you choose the right powder for the bullet weight and type you have selected. The best source of load data is the powder manufactures themselves. You can go right to their websites and get accurate load data for free!!! A published load manual is great such as modern reloading by Richard Lee, or hornadays reloading manual. I used the reloading pages of MD smith at http://www.reloadammo.com/ for some of my load data. When using internet data from the web ,other than the manufactures website, try to verify the load against a published manual. Beware of internet data, because the loads can be dangerous. Better to be safe than sorry. Stick with good, reliable load data to be safe.

With everything here, including a reloading manual you are looking at around 180 dollars to get you started. Try to get your consumables like powder and primers locally before ordering them. This allows you to dodge Hazardous material fees for shipping. If you want to go as cheap as possible cast bullets are the way to go. I bought my first batch from http://missouribullet.com/. They have great prices on cast pistol bullets as well as flat rate shipping. If you keep the velocities low, under 1000fps, you should have no problems with lead build up in the barrels.

There are other things you can also get like tumblers to clean your brass, or a turret press for added speed, but in my opinion, this is the simplest and cheapest way to reload with a press. For your press I suggest ordering from midwayusa.com or Cabelas if you can not find the equipment locally.
 
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