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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to buy my oil/filter and such at the local auto parts house and do my own oil change. This was decided upon after believing the tech at "Precision Auto Tune" when he said the only oil they use is a 5w20 synthetic, and it will work fine in my truck... better than 10w30 he says. So being naive and not having the time to do it myself I paid the man, he changed the oil/filter, and I was on my way.
The truck ran fine for the first 2K miles with this new oil... then when on the interstate-I could hear valve rattle while going up inclines or when accellerating above 55mph on the last 1K.
I went to the parts house and bought the following:
1 Gallon of Castrol GTX 10w30
1 Quart of Castrol GTX 10w30
1 Bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer
1 K&N Oil Filter

I changed my oil in rimfirehunter's driveway, and bottled my used oil in the now-empty 1 gallon jug. I do not have any more valve rattle while on the interstate, it seems to have more power (don't know why, but it's awesome), and I couldn't be happier.

I'm not a oil additive user by trade, but after running that BS synthetic 5w oil I decided to run it for 3K... to undo what the thin oil did. Anybody else change their own oil?
 

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I used to bt i got sick of getting dirty, but I when the oil change shop up the street changes it I make them use exactly what you put in your truck, excluding the oil stabilizer. It's not that much more exspensive and I dont have to mess with it.
 

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Strangerous how many miles does you truck have on it, is it gas or diesel and what are the high and low air tempters where you live?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This week it has been 17 and 89... I have 96K on the clock now, 302 gasoline engine.
 

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Synthetic in most high-mileage (or 75k+) engines=no-no. I've seen a tailpipe or two spew oil from it. Synthetic is great stuff, but it will find leaks you didn't know you had, whether internal or external. I've been using regular Mobil & Wix filters for years. There's no need to spend more than that. Purolator Pure One is another good filter. Whatever you buy, don't even look at Fram. They're garbage, no matter how many adjectives they add to the pretty orange box. K&N may make a decent oil filter, but I'll just let them clean my air & nothing more.

ETA: I just saw your last post. My 302 Bronco didn't like synthetic either. That was the last time I tried it in a high mileage engine. It has around 235k now :D
 

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Always have changed my own except for a few times. Never ran synthetic. Thought about it but decided nay.

Ford recommended 5w30 in my ranger. The last guy ran 10-30. But I went with the book and put 5w back in it.

Bob the oil guy has some good info and forums.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
 
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I only have old mules, and always run conventional oil in them.....
Problem now, is the lack of that additive, to properly break in flat tappet camshafts....but I digress on that.
 

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Funny... it costs me $40 to change my own oil as well:

-One Piaggio filter: $24.00
-One Liter of Agip 5W40 Full Synthetic: $15.99

Every 2k miles

Something tells me you got more of a bargain machine to maintain. Thank god I get 75mpg
 

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Do everything to my cars from maintenance to mods. Never let someone tell you to run a different oil than the factory does. That's just asking for trouble on an OEM motor.

My daily driver runs 5W-20 and my show car runs 5W-30 full synthetic Royal Purple. I think the going price right now is about $8/quart.

I only trust one place to touch any of the cars in my stable, and even still, I trust myself more for anything that needs to be done.
 

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I change my own oil on our work vehicles along with my own vehicles. As stated before do not use anything other than the grade of oil the manufacturer recommends. It is fine to use a synthetic blend in vehicels, and you can even find the fully sythentic in most grades. If it says to use 10-30 use 10-30. I have a Duramax and so I only use 15-40. The wife has an Explorer and it requires the 5-30. Unless you are in a crunch and need to get form point A to point B... Stick with the recommended oil. I stopped taking mine in after they put the wrong oil in the Duramax, and stripped the threads on the oil pan from inserting the plug wrong. When I do it, I know that it is done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's running like a champ now... I hope to have it around for at least another 100K.
 

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the use of sythetic oils is confusing at best and carmakers dont help. over 100k miles on ANY vehicle regardless of type you should jump one oil wieght. (ex 5w30 to 10w30) the only exception to this is heavy duty deisels and cadillac northstar engines. DO NOT mix synthetic with stnadard oils. nasty chemical reactions can result, not always, but they can. also do not interchange between brands of oil eg. penzoil to mobil or valvoline to quaker state. pick a type of oil and stick with it for the life of your car. the different waxes and detergents in the oil can change the chemical balance of your engine and either sludge it up tight or knock all the existing sludge loose (both bad situations). i run all motorcraft (ford) oil in my vehicles and havent had any problems.

there are oils that are interchangeable but they are few nad far between. motorcraft and valvoline VR1 oils interchange. mobil 1 synthtic and ford 5w20 fully synthitic interchange. there are a couple others but i cant remember them. (this info came from a ford engineer i talked to in engine school).

the best practice is to use the same oil, and smae brand of filter every time.

SW
 

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I do oil changes for a living, synthetic isn't bad, but NO WAY in hell would I have used the 5W-20. Stick with 5W-30 or 10W-30
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's decided -
From this point forward -
I'm only running Castrol GTX 10W30, with a K&N oil filter. (K&N oil filters are identical to Mobil 1 on the inside, but cheaper here, and has a nut on the end of it for easy removal)
I'm probably not going to spring for the lucas next oil change... I've never been an additive man. LOL
 

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Here's the deal. Synthetic is not a bad choice for your high mileage engine. You need to choose a synthetic oil formulated higher mileage engines. Synthetic doesn't cause leaks, it doesn't cause damage, etc. Synthetic oils will clear away sludge that has been otherwise preventing leaks. A high mileage formulation of synthetic oil will condition seals and help prevent leaks.

Running a 5W20 synthetic probably didn't do any damage to your engine, although I would stick with the weight that Ford recommends. 5W20 is a multi weight oil. The 5W means it can be pumped into your engine as well as an SAE 5 single weight oil (think cold starts). The 20 is the oil's viscosity at operating temp. It flows like an SAE 20 single weight oil at operating temp. The ambient temps never really got too high and synthetic oils are much better at resisting viscosity breakdown, so you don't really have anything to worry about.

If you're going to use Lucas or MMO or any other oil additive, I would add it a few hundred miles before your next oil change, rather than run it for the duration.

Mixing synthetic with a conventional oil will not cause any damaging chemical reactions. It will, however, reduce the effectiveness of the synthetic's additive package and it's protection against wear and viscosity breakdown. There are synthetic/conventional blends out there. Castrol was one of the first to mass market such a product.

Many oils like Napa, Motorcraft, etc are bottled in the same plant. Last I had read, Valvoline was doing most of that stuff.

I knew some people that worked a Lubrizol and and they swore by Mobil 1. Considering that engineers at Porsche, GM and several other major auto manufacturers use it as a factory fill for high performance engines, I would take it to be a good choice. I've run Mobil 1 in everything (including my weed whacker!) and it's been brilliant.

Obviously, using a quality filter is the best way to go. Avoid Fram like the plague. Here's a list of who makes what:

Fram

Fram Extra Guard (std)
Fram Tough Guard (different media?)
Fram X2 (Silicone ADBV, Fuzzy media)
Fram Extended Guard(same as the X2)
Mileguard (Jiffy)
Honda (although some are alleged to be made by Filtech)
Chrysler line up except for the Cummins
Penzoil
Deffense
Canadian Tire

Champion Labs

Bosch
Car and Driver
Deutsch
Mobil 1
STP
SuperTech
K&N
Valvoline filters
Mighty
Service Champ
Lee
AutoZone Value Craft
AC Delco
VW (some)
Warner
Luberfiner
Trust

Wix

Carquest blue
Carquest red
Napa Gold
Napa Silver (lower quality with nitrile ADBV)
Kralinator (in Canada)
ALLIANCE (Freightliner aftermarket)

Purolator (Arvin Meritor)

Purolator premium plus (nitrile adbv)
Purolator Pure One (silicone adbv, different media)
Havoline
Maxlife Valvoline (some)
Group7
Promotive
Powerflow
Quaker State (less media)
Advanced Auto Total Grip. (less media)
Pep Boys Pro Line
MotorCraft
Superflo

Denso

Toyota

Mann+Hummel

Mann
Volvo

Clarcor

Baldwin
Hastings
Amsoil
Casite
 

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I do oil changes for a living, synthetic isn't bad, but NO WAY in hell would I have used the 5W-20. Stick with 5W-30 or 10W-30
WHY. As someone who does it for a living, then you should know that a 5w-20 that meets Ford or Honda Specs, is as thick or thicker then some generic 5w-30. So a 5w-20 is not bad if you use it correctly.

Now for the rest of you, the first number 0w, 5w,10w, is A FLOW RATING ( when cold at 0* I believe) NOT A VISCOSTITY. Someone show me a oil that get thinner when cold, it doesn't happen.

Now for those that areinto Synthetics, remember that your mass market oils Valoline, Qaukerstate, Pennsoil, Castrol
, and others( not counting Mobil 1 still using a group 4 base, PAO last I checked) use a group 3 oil, WHICH IS A HIGHLY REFINED PETROLULUM OIL, not a true synthetic as one would think.

Mobil 1 , Royal Purple, European made oils are group 4 base, PAO, which is a real synthetic.

Redline is a group 5 Easter base Synthetic.

Group 3 oil are not allowed to be called synthetic in Europe.

If you want a good oil find one in the right viscosity with a ACEA rating A1, A3, or A5 with the A3 being the best.
The basic A1 rating far surpasses the API rating.
 

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I do oil changes for a living, synthetic isn't bad, but NO WAY in hell would I have used the 5W-20. Stick with 5W-30 or 10W-30
you put anyhting other than 5-20 in a new ford you void the warranty. BTDT, lost a good customer over the deal.

SW
 

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I do oil changes for a living, synthetic isn't bad, but NO WAY in hell would I have used the 5W-20. Stick with 5W-30 or 10W-30
you put anyhting other than 5-20 in a new ford you void the warranty. BTDT, lost a good customer over the deal.

SW
Agreed, but we are talking about a whole different engine family here. We have been through that in our shop as well, even with the extreme weather we have here in Jamestown (something you know all about) Those 7 1/2 quart Fords sure are something!
 

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i gave the service manager atout local ford shop a ring and he said that ford allows a "substitute standard" of 5w30 fully synthetic oil in place of 5w20 in tropical climates. in our climate they said 5w20 year round.

i have seen 5w20 conventional oil (non-synthetic) and i wont touch that with a 10 foot pole unless it was -50 deg.

SW
 
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