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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just received a Tri Delta Compensator with a washer. Washer has a flat side and the other side has a conical shape. Wondering if anyone has installed one of these and which direction the washer goes????? Should the conical shape point to the barrel and the flat side point towards the comp - or does it matter. No instructions were included. I understand it is a crush-able washer. Rifle is all locked up I know it has a cap on the threaded barrel - wondering if the barrel might might be crowned and the tapered side fits into the crown??

Thanks LBM
 

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I have always installed a crush washer so the convex side is against the shoulder of the barrel and the concave side is up against the muzzle device.
 

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I have always installed a crush washer so the convex side is against the shoulder of the barrel and the concave side is up against the muzzle device.
^^^^ This is the correct way to install a crush washer for cans, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have always installed a crush washer so the convex side is against the shoulder of the barrel and the concave side is up against the muzzle device.
Thanks - Got it now. When I looked at the washer before I thought the back "Concave" side was flat. Old eyes and not enough light I guess. I pulled out a straight edge and the washer under good light and I immediately saw it was not flat - no need for a straight edge. Honestly I would of put it on backwards. No arguments but what does the convex/tapered part of the washer do? I'm guessing the convex side locates on the barrel and the convex crushes onto/into the back of the Comp sealing it??
 

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A crush washer does what it's named. They are very handy when clocking brakes and comps because of the deflection they allow. It also provides additional back pressure on the two pieces it is sandwiched between preventing them loosening up due to vibration. When used in conjunction with a bolt, like your oil pan plug, they create a better seal. They are single use items in my world. Now why the convex side to the shoulder? When you apply pressure to it, the washer flexes and the inner hole diameter gets smaller and the exterior gets larger as it flattens out. If the convex side is facing out the inner hole will squeeze in on the threads as the device is tightened down, thus galling them, and preventing you from fully tightening the device down and creating a proper seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A crush washer does what it's named. They are very handy when clocking brakes and comps because of the deflection they allow. It also provides additional back pressure on the two pieces it is sandwiched between preventing them loosening up due to vibration. When used in conjunction with a bolt, like your oil pan plug, they create a better seal. They are single use items in my world. Now why the convex side to the shoulder? When you apply pressure to it, the washer flexes and the inner hole diameter gets smaller and the exterior gets larger as it flattens out. If the convex side is facing out the inner hole will squeeze in on the threads as the device is tightened down, thus galling them, and preventing you from fully tightening the device down and creating a proper seal.
Interesting - Thanks. Out of curiosity I searched crush washers & comps. Turns out there are lots of the out there including double crush. I've had several rifles with comps or flash hiders but never had a reason to remove them - learn something everyday.
 

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Interesting - Thanks. Out of curiosity I searched crush washers & comps. Turns out there are lots of the out there including double crush. I've had several rifles with comps or flash hiders but never had a reason to remove them - learn something everyday.
Especially here - from how to wire a breaker panel to rebuilding your truck engine to the best way to rattle can camo a stock to....whatever. More knowledge and useless trivia here than any other site on the net.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Especially here - from how to wire a breaker panel to rebuilding your truck engine to the best way to rattle can camo a stock to....whatever. More knowledge and useless trivia here than any other site on the net.
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A crush washer does what it's named. They are very handy when clocking brakes and comps because of the deflection they allow. It also provides additional back pressure on the two pieces it is sandwiched between preventing them loosening up due to vibration. When used in conjunction with a bolt, like your oil pan plug, they create a better seal. They are single use items in my world. Now why the convex side to the shoulder? When you apply pressure to it, the washer flexes and the inner hole diameter gets smaller and the exterior gets larger as it flattens out. If the convex side is facing out the inner hole will squeeze in on the threads as the device is tightened down, thus galling them, and preventing you from fully tightening the device down and creating a proper seal.
OK - I've got another Comp/crush washer question. First how tight does it need to be on the barrel? I installed it today and with lots of good-n-tight with a big crescent I got it as tight as I could get it and ended up with the triangular port on the top - on the bottom. It has 3 ports - 2 on the sides and one on the top - or bottom as it ended up. It seems to me I'm 180 Off. Instead of gas exiting out the top and tending to push the barrel down - it is on the bottom which would seem to want to push the barrel up. Seems like I should pull it off and find a way to re-clock it but I suspect the crush washer is a one time use and it might be on there to stay?? Am I tracking this correctly. I had a rag over the comp to give it some protection from the jaws and I didn't see it until I got it tight and pulled off the rag - whamo!
 

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@motovate

Yes, you'll need another crush washer. They aren't permanent, but can sometimes be a PITA to get off.

Edit: Honestly you really don't need another one, because it's 'just' a pistol caliber comp and the set screw will hold it in place. Now if you DON'T have the set screw model.... it's a pistol caliber comp and you'll be fine until you decide to order a new washer. 15-20ft.lbs MAX!

Now, if I'm not mistaken, that particular model comes with a set screw so that once it is snugged down to the crush washer and clocked so the port is at 12 o'clock, you tighten down the set screw to prevent it from rotating. You shouldn't be reefing on the thing at all. 15 ft.lbs to start, 20 ft.lbs max.

73406
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@motovate

Yes, you'll need another crush washer. They aren't permanent, but can sometimes be a PITA to get off.

Now, if I'm not mistaken, that particular model comes with a set screw so that once it is snugged down to the crush washer and clocked so the port is at 12 o'clock, you tighten down the set screw to prevent it from rotating. You shouldn't be reefing on the thing at all. 15 ft.lbs to start, 20 ft.lbs max.

View attachment 73406
Thanks. So good -n- snug not good-n-tight!. It looks like that but it didn't come with an allen key and I didn't look any farther. Maybe it is easily clockable - I'll look it over. I ordered a couple of double crush washers should get them in a few days and try it again!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks. So good -n- snug not good-n-tight!. It looks like that but it didn't come with an allen key and I didn't look any farther. Maybe it is easily clockable - I'll look it over. I ordered a couple of double crush washers should get them in a few days and try it again!!
So I pulled off the comp. It looks like the one you showed but it is solid. I tried re clocking it by trying to shift where the threads start screwing on - could not get it to any point other then the point it started with even with no washer. I pulled off the crush washer fully expecting to see it "crushed" and it looked like it had never been touched. So I flipped it over and the comp clocked right with the hole on top. I put it on as tight as I could get it by hand. If I pulled it down tight it might have crushed the washer but it would have clocked with the top hole open to the left. I'll see if any thing is different when I get the double crush washers. If that doesn't work I'll try some 222 lock tight. I found it @ Midway USA for use on guns. Sounded better then Blue Lock tight and red would definitely not be good.
 

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You can also use shims, or use a thin lock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can also use shims, or use a thin lock nut.
Yes I saw the shims but I don't particularly want to buy a complete set of shims - which the sellers say I need to do in order to know what size shim I need to replace - or just make a guess. Not sure where I'd get a thin enough lock nut but I like that idea??? Maybe Brownells - or???? Since I have a couple of double crush washers on the way and the 222 "Purple" lock tight that Midway shows for things like comps, screws, etc on the way I'll try one of them and a drop or two of "222" if it loosens up after shooting. I can use the 222 for other things too. Supposed to hold tight and come off easy with tools🤓. I've ordered a 1x Micro Red Dot Optic. I don't like the small peep sight & I suspect when I get the Red Dot on I'll find that tall front sight in the way and take it off. Have to remove the comp to get it off so @ that point I'll switch out the crush washers and maybe put the Purple to it!😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes I saw the shims but I don't particularly want to buy a complete set of shims - which the sellers say I need to do in order to know what size shim I need to replace - or just make a guess. Not sure where I'd get a thin enough lock nut but I like that idea??? Maybe Brownells - or???? Since I have a couple of double crush washers on the way and the 222 "Purple" lock tight that Midway shows for things like comps, screws, etc on the way I'll try one of them and a drop or two of "222" if it loosens up after shooting. I can use the 222 for other things too. Supposed to hold tight and come off easy with tools🤓. I've ordered a 1x Micro Red Dot Optic. I don't like the small peep sight & I suspect when I get the Red Dot on I'll find that tall front sight in the way and take it off. Have to remove the comp to get it off so @ that point I'll switch out the crush washers and maybe put the Purple to it!😎
 

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^ That's what I used - a thin cut washer. Probably not the recommended thing to use but hey, its a HiPoint. :p
 
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In regard to the shims....yeah, you need to buy a set, sometimes you use one, sometimes you use several.
Another option is just using a flat washer and grinding it down to the right thickness,then put it up against the shoulder on the barrel, under the crush nut.
I forget where I got the lock nuts. EBay maybe? They are the nicest answer, as you simply get things set, then lock it in. No guessing or adjusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
In regard to the shims....yeah, you need to buy a set, sometimes you use one, sometimes you use several.
Another option is just using a flat washer and grinding it down to the right thickness,then put it up against the shoulder on the barrel, under the crush nut.
I forget where I got the lock nuts. EBay maybe? They are the nicest answer, as you simply get things set, then lock it in. No guessing or adjusting.
Thanks again. I decided to just see what a 5/8x24 lock nut search would find and bvoom - I found lots of them. All thicknesses , brass, steel, stainless lots of thin ones and from .50 to 40$$$ + shipping. Many specific to fire arms. I also looked for shim kits and was surprise to find a set for around $6 + shipping. I'll call it a short set because it was 5 or 6 shims ( I didn't actually count them) and full sets of all prices. Have to be careful though. I searched for 5/8" and a lot of them that popped up were 1/2 " - gotta watch that inter net!!! Now that I know how easy it is to get them I'll likely pick up a nut and a short set of shims if the double crush washers don't do the job. I live "Out in the Country" in Northern
Arizona. 35-40 miles to the closest town (Chino Valley) where I go to get grub, Pizzas & a couple of Hardware stores and other assorted things, Another 15-20 miles to Prescott for Hospitals big box stores etc. Round trip miles add up and gas just is never cheap. A few years I just started using the internet and I find I have a better selection and a lot of places will pay shipping - not all but many of them and If whatever I buy doesn't work I can usually just send it back for a refund. Sometimes I just have to live with it but with $15-20 a pop for each trip it still is less expensive over all. I'm waiting for that Micro Red Dot before I get the short shim pack and the lock nut.
 

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Yeah, I’m in Eastern Utah, 60 miles from a Walmart, 30 from McDonalds; so I get it. I hate Amazon....but I love Amazon.
 
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