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Discussion in 'General Firearms Discussion' started by Suicide-Salads, Nov 20, 2013.
As scarce as some stuff is right now, it could be difficult as well as more expensive.
That’s a WHOLE lotta barrel! 24” IIRC? Hope it shoots like it looks like it will.
You guys really missed the boat. It might come around again, but last year’s $400 builds may not ever be a thing again.
Perhaps. I do have an AR and an AR pistol but never seemed to get around to doing a build. That, and the apprehension of doing a build never having done one. Everybody says its easy to do but I never took the plunge.
Truth. I'm glad I got my 2nd AR (and 1st AR build) from PSA when I did. Now the price has skyrocketed IF you can find the parts at all.
Well, Building one as we speak. Kinda just assembling...
Picked up a 7.62x39 upper from BCA for $307 shipped, side charging and comes with BCG. Then picked up an anderson lower $68.00 shipped from Primary Arms, then a lower build kit from black rifle depot for $115. For the mags i picked up (2) UNIMAG Gen II. Reviews seemed OK, couldn't find c-product or acs, so we'll see how these work.
Was toying with just buying a complete lower from PSA for $179 as the pricing would be similar to lower and lower build kit but I kinda enjoy that part...
Ozark Armaments BUIS $30
Optic not sure yet...
So a functional rifle for $570.
Still not horrible. Needed to add a 7.62x39 AR to my collection and I said no more rifles so this is just a bunch of parts I am throwing together
Correct. 24" Ballistics Advantage with the sub-moa guarantee. The balance point is right at the pivot pin. Feels a lot lighter than I thought it would.
All in, minus optics, I'm sitting at $1,100 for this mostly Aero Precision LR308 build. The closest you can get to it from them is $2,000 and they don't even offer a 24" bbl in .308.
I could have had it done at $800 but I went with a better trigger, barrel, and spare LPK.
Edit: Just threw it on the scale. 9lbs 12oz. A full pound under the SR25 Match I modeled it after. Now it just needs a scope and bipod...
My new LGS, Pryor's Guns, has everything on the shelf to build 20 rifles, if you don't mind complete Aero Precision builds and Faxon barrels. Prices aren't bad either. He's priced about 10% lower than what AP lists.
He ships too...
$190 + S&H, 30 mm tube, Bushnell Nitro 2.5-10X44 MOA reticle
$229 for the 5-20X44 model
Or in Gunmental Gray
They have some nice Nikons too, but apparently Nikon is getting out of scopes. The warranty should hold, but still...
VERY Easy. I built my 2nd or 3rd AR Lower, for a friend, at his house, none of the proper tools available. No Problem. Since then I have invested in the proper tools to build an upper. I never liked the idea of clamping an upper in a vise so I bought the "reaction rod" which is a splined rod that keys into the barrel lugs where the bolt locks. Much safer for an upper.
Yes, it is easy and enjoyable. One might say therapeutic
I put that LR308 together at my coffee table with a punch set, allen wrenches, armorer's wrench, torque wrench, a portable vice, and some blue loctite. Both receivers were stripped bare and it only took 30 minutes to have it 100% functional. I was even going slow because I was teaching my son how it all worked together while he watched.
How do you assemble an upper, Big Bro?
I always feared torqueing the barrel nut against an upper receiver.
With a vise block, wrench, torque wrench, and the ability to read.
Most barrel nuts get torqued to 30-40 ftlbs. Buy a shim kit because they say take it to 30lbs then use as much as 80lbs to force the next gas tube hole to line up with the receiver. I prefer to shim and torque to no more than 40lbs. I torqued Big Bro to 40lbs, and Lil' Bro got 35lbs.
Edit: Plus there's the super difficult task of jamming the FA in and tapping a roll pin in. Not to mention the dust cover which consists of the rod, door, spring, and rotating the spring 180° before sending the rod home...
Aero uses screw pins for the FA, so it's super super difficult...
YES to this, shim kits are definitely the way to go - very inexpensive and makes it much easier.
I just use free float handguards with barrel nuts that don’t get in the way of the gas tube. Only had to screw with the silly thing on one gun. The rest of them, I just torque, loosen, re-torque and call it good.
The .308 handguard had the low profile barrel nut. I just set the wrench to 40, then did torque 3x routine. SO much simpler than the shimming process on the .223 wylde.
$400 ???? I had a couple builds this spring come in at $325 without optics.
Cheapskate. When your cheap ass crap breaks and my $400 gun is still running, don’t come crying to me.
I upgraded most with a better trigger. Add an $80 LaRue trigger to yours, and you are in my house.
Voted up despite the Snarky attitude
The reason I asked was because the instructions I have seen "allow" for more torque to align the gas holes that I was comfortable with applying to a vise-blocked Upper. So I bought the reaction rod. Not sure of the total price, but it was under $100. Prolly under $90 to my door, but I do not recall exactly.
There's nothing very difficult on a piece-by-piece AR build, BTW. Good tools are worth their weight in Silver, if not Gold. OH, one item I had a total fail on was remover of the front tower sight and gas block. Never did get that one off.
Snarky? You need to be able to read to operate a torque wrench. Here's the thing about the reaction rod. You're holding the barrel still, but the upper can still rotate as you tighten the nut putting all that torque on the locator pin and applying it to the small area of aluminum on the upper. With a vice block, all the torque is spread through the block to the upper but it is a relatively thin walled piece of aluminum and can get muffed up.
Does it matter at 30 - 40 lbs of torque? Not at all. Not unless you plan on using a 1/2" drive crow's foot spanner and your impact driver to get to 80lbs. The reaction rod/barrel tool and the vise block do a very similar job. Its how you decide to use them that may or may not damage the receiver.